New to V8's. 340 or 383?

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One thing if your a engine builder you can't setup a 340 and a 360 the same.They are small blocks but two different engines They can use the same parts but what are you doing with them.My 340 stock stroke got it's power from 3500 rpm and had power well over 8000 rpm and would kill any 360.Because of rpm and torque you can't build them the same.Also you are only talking about 20Ci thats not a lot between the two engines.You 360 guys need to start a 360 theed and leave the other guys alone that want to do other things.There are people that think out of the box and not in that follow the next person down the same road.I am glad he chose a 340 he will be very impressed of the power of it.One other thing you can build a stock 340 with 300HP and with all stock parts. Mark
340sFastback said:
The 360 will give you more torque and more power if the pistons are swapped out to raise the compression up to where the original 340s were. The 340s have the reputation because they came with high compression, big valves, and the better exhaust manifolds. But when the two engines are set up the same the 360 will outperform the 340 every time and make more power and torque at a lower rpm to boot.

Yes being able to say you have a 340 is cool. And if that is what the OP wants and is willing to pay extra to get the 340 by all means go buy one. But it will need more cam and have to be rev'ed higher to get the same power as the longer stroke 360 would and cost more money up front to purchase. More money for less power sounds like the hot ticket to me...
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There are people that think out of the box and not in that follow the next person down the same road.
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thinking out side the box sure as hell wouldn't include building a 340 or 360. it would be more like building a 273 or 318.
 
Abodybomber said:
Rumble and Wild: you both laid down,consistent descripitions,both.If the O.P,can't make a decision,not your fault.
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Thanks bud. I'm pretty sure he's doing a 340.

I myself am counting the days down to when I can get into my 400 "B" engine '71 Duster. I've already had 3 small block Dusters displacing differently.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Hummmm, cruise RPM explained ???

Well, at what speed do you drive down the Hwy. at? 65, 70, 75 mph?
Note this on your regular car. I'll assume you will want to be able to do the same in "The Ride."

Also understand that as cams get bigger, not only will they Increase the HP of the engine,, but, it will also increase the RPM range at which the cruise in. This should work in conjunction with the gear ratio and tire size. (Also the stall speed of the converter.)

The gear ratio can limit the cam size which in turn limits power to a degree.
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I definitely want to do 75 on the highway...that's pretty much needed to just keep up with traffic around here.

Do you think 3.23's will be the best option to be able to cruise at 75 and still give me a little giddy up off the line?
 
Yes I do. Now, there's some math to do here. It is the tire diameter that is the last unknown couples with the gear ratio and the final drive ratio from the tranny, which is 1-1. This will give the engine RPM's at any given speed. Knowing this, you can start looking at cams that have a cruise RPM in the area.

I think I could target a decent cam for a general arena, though I'd like to be more informed before making a choice.
 
Thanks Rumble, I'm not exactly sure what the tire size will end up being since I still have the SBP wheels on there. I'm guessing something real close to 205/70/r14? I'm not going to go with anything crazy. Either standard steelies or rallye wheels depending on what color I decide to go with.
 
For standard sized 5.5" wide wheels (steel or rally)...I would go with 215/70/14 tires. That's the largest size tire recommended for that width rim.

That's what I have on my Duster to store the car in the Winter...they look tiny.

I have 3.91 rear gears and the car really screams on the highway...going with 3.23 gears with stock wheels would work great.

Paul


ESP47 said:
Thanks Rumble, I'm not exactly sure what the tire size will end up being since I still have the SBP wheels on there. I'm guessing something real close to 205/70/r14? I'm not going to go with anything crazy. Either standard steelies or rallye wheels depending on what color I decide to go with.
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Randy WM said:
X2. There are way more 360s out there.
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Yes 360 would make the most sense it has the best compromises for it CID with bore/stroke and rod ratios but at the same time as you say that I shouldn't run my 273 cause its 80+ smaller I could say why would you not run a 440 cause its 80 cubes bigger. For the Hp and rpms I want 273 fits for me plus its alittle more for a challenge to build a strong running 375-400hp 273 than a 360.
 
340 would be my first choice if its no later than a 71. 72 and 73 340's had cast cranks,low compression and j heads. (like a 360)lol
 
ESP47 said:
Hey guys I've had my slant six Duster for 10 years now but I just recently bought a 67 Barracuda fastback with a 273 commando. The car came with a SBP 7 1/4" rear and 10" drum brakes. I plan on swapping the rear for at least an 8 1/4" and the fronts to discs.

I've just began researching V8's but I've always wanted a 340 ever since I was a teenager. My question is, how much can I expect to pay to get a 340 and just have it rebuilt to regular factory specs? I'm not interested in racing it so I don't need performance mods or anything. I just want a nice looking car that looks like it could be original. If I buy a 340 block for $500, how much can I expect to pay for heads and to have it rebuilt? I'm just looking at ballpark here.

Some of these Barracuda's came with 383's so I've been wondering about those as well. They almost seem cheaper than 340's. What's a ballpark number as far as buying one and having it rebuilt?

Also what are the pros and cons of a 340 vs. a 383 in this car? The 340 seems like it would just drop right in. Are there certain mods needed to drop a 383 in or would I just need different motor mounts since some cars originally came with them? I'm a total newbie when it comes to V8's so I apologize if I'm asking stupid questions.
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rumble got it right several pages ago
me- stroked 340
but wait- that's a 360
much easier parts availability and on the street cu in rule
cast cranks do not break and are a lot cheaper than forged

most power per dollar starts with a magnum takeout
look at it another way and start with heads

or 383-400 with aluminum heads is not much heavier, heads flow a lot more, bigger valves etc
 
This thread is older than the stains in my underwear....
deadhorse.gif
 
A thread brought back to life after 8 years...........
 
Hyup a 4" 318, is 384 cubes, and every body goes all giggly. But compared to a 360;
the 384 is just 6.7% bigger, with a bore size that is 2.3% smaller.
And I get branded a 318-hater,
which is 2.3% smaller bore, and equals ~ 12% less cubes than a 360.
Go figure.......
 
It could be a while. His last post was on April 29.
 
i'd go 340 , i have a few and for me they beat the 360 when built to stock specs . if i were to go big block i'd go 400 with a 440 crank 400 and 383 fit better that the 440 a touch more room and can make good power Depends on what you want from the car
 
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