New trailer. Where to weld the D rings?

[barbee6043]

All I know is 50 years ago I got hit head on by an 85 mph drunk. That MF 65 old tractor, chained down with HEAVY log chains, busted those and was sitting on top of the gooseneck.
A over the road trucker told me once, those straps are worthless son! Use BIG chains.

 

[Steve welder]

All I know is 50 years ago I got hit head on by an 85 mph drunk. That MF 65 old tractor, chained down with HEAVY log chains, busted those and was sitting on top of the gooseneck.
A over the road trucker told me once, those straps are worthless son! Use BIG chains.

Ive been around heavy equipment a long time now and have done numerous 50 60 ton low boy work
Ive never seen any large equipment secured with anything but HD American forged chain and hooks,rachet load binders

 

[Steve welder]

I get the physics of the lateral forces.
But with the U-haul auto transporter, those D-rings will rub the straps if placed straight, then they'll fail for sure.
I won't use the safety chain around the rear, since it's painted.
I'll take my chances.
I know I'm jinxed now, but never had a strap fail....yet.

Ive seen Towing outfits use web straps with D rings. They are commercial HD type and not the junk sold in HF or cheap ratchet straps like shown in the video in this thread ( see post #17)

 

[Joey4speed]

Iike to use the 7000 lb rated 2 inch straps. It's pretty stiff strapping, along with 12,000 lb rated ratchets.
Seems to be ok for a car.

 

[Demonx2]

Simple physics for the cross strap. Only a portion of whatever tension is in your strap/chain is applied crosswise or lengthwise to the car/load. I use axle straps on the rear axle and front k-member to prevent damage. But on my Demons, due to tongue load reqmts/length of the cars, I have to cross the fronts. The rears stay pulling straight back. Now were a front strap to come loose, and the car tried to wander to one side, I would see it in the mirror and go address it. But I'm more concerned about keeping the car in place in a panic stop hence the direct lengthwise rear straps. Those are what are absolutely critical to me to have lengthwise.

I made some angled 4x4 blocks that the front tires go up against before i cinch the car down. Each block has a metal "flat" flush with the bottom of it that the front tire sits on to keep the block in place. Somewhat of a self-locking device unless the tire were to try to climb up the block and release the load on the "flat." But that's where the rear tiedowns pulling lengthwise keep the front tires from riding up the block so they stay put.

Now when I tow my longer/heavier 69 Charger, no straps are crossed but I use those same blocks just positioned to a different spot on the trailer deck to get the tongue load right.