new wiring harness problems, HELP!!!

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pauly v.100

pauly v.100

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honolulu, hi.
heres the list of new stuff:

EZ wiring 21 curcuit harness
Tuff Stuff 140 amp one wire alt.
Speedhut gauges (they're working fine)
30A fused relay box from WiredWagon LLC (very nice piece)
accessory LED lit toggle switches from Keep It Clean Wiring

MSD 6AL and billet distributor were already on the car, though the 6AL was wired with the ballast resistor still hooked up. I have since taken it off as per MSD's recommendation

My problem is with the toggle switch wiring. i have the fuel pump on a switched curcuit that gets power from an unused switched 20A wire from the fusebox, through the toggle and then goes to a 30A fused relay and then to the pump. The accusump is rigged similarly but for now lets work on the fuel pump.
When I turn the ignition on, my dash lights all work, the toggles light up, but when i flip the toggle for the pump to the on position it blows the fuse in the EZ fusebox. I figured having the curcuit double fused would just add a measure of protection, but the same thing happens when I flip the switch for the accusump solenoid which surely doesn't need a high amp fuse. I tried different connection combinations on the toggles since they weren't marked, but no dice, the fuses still blow. My brain hurts from all this wiring, I'm not sure I can see this problem through without some help.
any of you wiring gurus have an idea of whats going on? this is all new wiring and is securely grounded where called for.
 
Hold on, am I reading this right? is the toggle running a relay that energizes the pump the circuit blowing or the pump circuit?



I'd disconnect the pump and try it. If it still blows a fuse it's in the wiring, if not....it's more than likely the pump. if the wiring is the issue standard trouble shooting ......split the circuit if possible by disconnecting a plug in the wiring if possible and try it again, the theory here is to isolate the issue to a smaller or specific section of wiring. You can use a mutli meter to help isolate the issue.
 
I'm sure the pump is fine, it was in use before the wiring project. I think for now i'll run the power for the pump off of the ign. switch, then through the relay just to make sure the wiring to the relay is sound. I really want to have the pump on a switch though for safety and security reasons. I was starting to think that I needed to re-install the ballast resistor and run power through the ballast resistor then to the fuse block, but i don't think thats the problem. thanks for the help, i may be back here asking more Qs.
 
pauly v.100 said:
I'm sure the pump is fine, it was in use before the wiring project. I think for now i'll run the power for the pump off of the ign. switch, then through the relay just to make sure the wiring to the relay is sound. I really want to have the pump on a switch though for safety and security reasons. I was starting to think that I needed to re-install the ballast resistor and run power through the ballast resistor then to the fuse block, but i don't think thats the problem. thanks for the help, i may be back here asking more Qs.
Click to expand...

The ballast resister is utilized in the start run circuit and drops the voltage to the coil in the run position. It wouldn't have anything to do with the fuel pump even if the pump was run off of the run circuit. If you are sure the pump is fine then there is a short that needs to be found. Running power from the ignition to the relay is fine I agree with the added switch for security reasons.
 
We need more info. You are talking about EZ boxes and fused relays, and really, without photos and diagrams, we have no idea how you wired it.

But the fuse that is blowing should be a clue.

Give us info on the specific circuit path that you are referring to, example:

fuse blows in main fusebox?

Switched through key? to fusebox? to relay?

If this is true, just unhook the fused supply wire AT the relay and retest, which will show if it's "in" the relay or the wire is shorted somewhere.

OK if disconnecting the relay stops the fuse blowing, now detail to us WHAT exactly kind of relay (Bosch style, part no, etc) and how it's wired.

Is the fuse blowing in the coil circuit or the load (contacts) circuit?
 
the fuse is blowing in the load curcuit.
here's the relay block I'm using, Erik builds them individually to the customer's requirements. It has five 30A fused relays, small wire is in, large wire goes to component. I'm running the fuel pump wire from the fuse box to the toggle, then from the toggle to the relay "in", then from relay "out" to the pump. The large red wire you see is 12V power to the relays with a fusible link.
http://wagongear.com/WiredWagon.html
 

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I'm not going to enjoy undoing these wire connections to test them, but I guess I'll have to!
I'm shooting Erik (relay builder) an email to see if he has any ideas.
 

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I assume the relays unplug? That would be the first step. Undo what is easiest to get to first, and go from there.
 
So far I've confirmed that the toggle was wired correctly. I'm currently swapping emails with the relay builder. He sent a diagram of how it should be wired and it's pretty much how I've done it. I might be looking at testing each component to trace the problem.
 
Here's an idea: You using lighted toggle switches? A simple on/ off lighted switch has three terminals.

One is power in

second is switched load out

last is ground for the pilot lamp

If you ground the wrong terminal you can set up this very situtation.
 
I called the switch supplier and confirmed I had it connected properly.
Right now its looking like I have a short to ground somewhere, I'll be testing everything after work. Thanks- pauly
 
Are you running any fans off this block, 15A main fuse will blow with an 18A Lincoln electric fan running, add a 6A MSD (1A per 1000 RPM) and a 7.5A pump (fuse rated by holley) and you got close to 33A running through the main feed. That 15A fuse should be larger I would think. Check the lit switch, probably the cause (hopefully)
 
thanks Pishta,
the power wire to the switch is a fused 20A from the fuse block, the switch is rated at 20A, the power then goes to the relays which are rated at 30A, then to the pump, fan, and headlights, each on their own relay.
 
Update:
I have the fuel pump working now. After everyones assistance it boiled down to taking my time and checking each wire and connection.
Cause? it was as simple as two wires mixed up. In some cases I had to extend the length of some wires and they didn't all have the correct labels, though in almost all cases I used the same color wire. It was a simple case of moving to fast and not correctly re-labeling the wires i extended.
i humbly extend my warmest thanks for all of your help. aloha- Pauly
 
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