Newb Oil Filter Question

[Newbomb Turk]

The Canton adaptor is a bit thicker than the factory plate, so keep that in mind when buying your filter.

I use a K&N PS-2004 on my 340 with the Canton plate and Doug's D453's, it clears everything just fine.

Amazon product ASIN B0067ECW72
That filter is also used on 2000's Dodge Ram 2500's with a 360, and even a 496 Chevy big block that comes in some buses.

I have also used this filter, although with the Canton adaptor plate it's a pretty tight fit to the Doug's. Not sure how that would work with TTI's, might be fine, but I don't have a set of TTI's

Mopar Performance P4452890 Mopar Performance Oil Filters | Summit Racing


Yeah, no. The spring in the filter is not a bypass valve that bypasses the filter at a certain engine oil pressure. Sorry. It's there to bypass the oil filter if the filter plugs up, not if the oil pressure in the engine gets too high. Two different things. The bypass in the filter is set up on a pressure differential between the engine oil pressure and the pressure in the filter, and it closes if the filter plugs up to keep oil circulating through the engine.

There's a pressure relief valve in the oil pump that opens past a certain pressure, but that doesn't bypass the oil filter.



Both the TTI's and the Doug's headers for small block mopars work just fine without the 90° adaptor, and those are pretty much the best headers available for these cars unless you're having a set custom made. As for the rest of your comments, yeah, the oil filter I linked is a factory size for MUCH bigger engines than the OP's 340.

Something to note as well, just because an oil filter has a larger body does not necessarily mean that it has more filter material. There are larger, cheaper filters that have less filter media than the one I linked to. Bigger doesn't always mean better, the amount of filter material is what you have to pay attention to and it's not alway a direct link to the external filter size.

Not sure about Doug’s or TTI if you can get a long filter on there without the adapter.

I don’t get the hate for the adapter. They seal FAR better, they allow a long filter. In fact I used to use a Baldwin filter that was longer by I think an inch or a bit more and had less than a 2 psi pressure drop across it at 7,000 rpm. I don’t think that Baldwin filter will fit any header without the right angle adapter.

 

[72bluNblu]

Not sure about Doug’s or TTI if you can get a long filter on there without the adapter.

I don’t get the hate for the adapter. They seal FAR better, they allow a long filter. In fact I used to use a Baldwin filter that was longer by I think an inch or a bit more and had less than a 2 psi pressure drop across it at 7,000 rpm. I don’t think that Baldwin filter will fit any header without the right angle adapter.

There's no need, or benefit, of running a filter longer than the ones I've posted. Filter technology is much better now than when these cars were made. How many of these cars made it to 100k miles on the factory engine? Not that many. How many can now go double that? Most of them. Some of that is better machining and components, but oil and filter technology is part of that too. You don't need a gigantic oil filter like what came on the factory cars from the 60's and 70's, there are plenty of modern cars with MUCH smaller filters than the ones I've posted for this one. Hell Toyota filters are tiny, and those cars go hundreds of thousands of miles with no issues. If the small oil filters were that detrimental they couldn't do that.

And I don't hate the adaptor, but depending on the headers you're running there's really no need for it either. It's just another interface to leak. There's certainly no reason to run one if you don't need it to clear your exhaust.

 

[TXOval]

Quick follow up…since I have an Early A-Body, the TTI full length headers do not allow for the filter to be directly installed to the block.

You must use the factory 90 or a remote filter adapter.

It’s a pain in the *** with the early A-body

 

[madhatta360]

Reactivating an old post here- I’m running the 90 degree adapter, bought the gasket set and upgraded flow thru bolt, torqued to 45 ft.lbs still getting leak dripping out of the bolt/copper gasket- anyone have issues with this? The oil gets all over my new headers and makes a mess on the floor, I’m ready to rip this POS off and go right to the block.

Have Doug’s D453 on 73 duster 340, just looking to see if others had problems with bolt/washer seepage?

 

[1971 CY Dodge Dart]

Not needed with your headers. Just say no to that 90 degree adapter and ditch it.

 

[furrystump]

All I know is my wife’s 2005 Audi A4 1.8T takes the same filter. Makes it easy to remember. My opinion, fix the leak.

 

[72bluNblu]

Not needed with your headers. Just say no to that 90 degree adapter and ditch it.

Yeah I don't understand why anyone would want the 90° adaptor if you didn't absolutely need it. It just adds more sealing surfaces to leak. With Dougs or TTI's on a 67+ A body just use the PS-2004 size filter or the MP one I linked earlier, they fit great and are standard equipment on a TON of engines both larger, smaller and newer than any LA engine.

Seems like everyone is getting caught up on the physical size of the filter, but the external size of the oil filter is only one component of how good an oil filter is, and it's not the most important one at all. You can have a giant filter that's cheaply made and has very little filter surface area, and a smaller filter that has a ton of pleats/folds and therefore much more surface area for the filter.

 

[madhatta360]

Yeah I don't understand why anyone would want the 90° adaptor if you didn't absolutely need it. It just adds more sealing surfaces to leak. With Dougs or TTI's on a 67+ A body just use the PS-2004 size filter or the MP one I linked earlier, they fit great and are standard equipment on a TON of engines both larger, smaller and newer than any LA engine.

Seems like everyone is getting caught up on the physical size of the filter, but the external size of the oil filter is only one component of how good an oil filter is, and it's not the most important one at all. You can have a giant filter that's cheaply made and has very little filter surface area, and a smaller filter that has a ton of pleats/folds and therefore much more surface area for the filter.

Is that PS-2004 for the KN filter?

 

[72bluNblu]

Is that PS-2004 for the KN filter?

Yes, the prefix is the K&N version but the 2004 should cross reference.

And there’s the MP one I linked too if you’re running a stock sandwich plate instead of the Canton plate, the canton plate is thicker so the slightly shorter PS-2004 works better with it

 

[madhatta360]

Yes, the prefix is the K&N version but the 2004 should cross reference.

And there’s the MP one I linked too if you’re running a stock sandwich plate instead of the Canton plate, the canton plate is thicker so the slightly shorter PS-2004 works better with it

I have the stock plate any benefit running the canton, more openings for oil flow?

 

[72bluNblu]

I have the stock plate any benefit running the canton, more openings for oil flow?

Yeah, it has more holes for higher flow, and an o-ring to seal to the block for allegedly better sealing. Not too sure about that, and the o-rings a weird size so you have to get them from Canton if you need one.

I think you could probably just drill more holes in the stock plate and accomplish pretty much the same thing.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

How does the right angle adapter have more places to leak? It has the gasket on the block like the plate and the filter has it's seal that no matter which one you use has the same gasket.

I count two possible leaks for both.

Besides that, filter length matters. With the same exact Wix filter in short and long, the short filter was down on presser by 10-12 pounds across the pull.

That's a lot of pressure loss. On the next test I'll measure the pressure in and pressure out for both filters. That may surprise some folks.

 

[72bluNblu]

How does the right angle adapter have more places to leak? It has the gasket on the block like the plate and the filter has it's seal that no matter which one you use has the same gasket.

I count two possible leaks for both.

Besides that, filter length matters. With the same exact Wix filter in short and long, the short filter was down on presser by 10-12 pounds across the pull.

That's a lot of pressure loss. On the next test I'll measure the pressure in and pressure out for both filters. That may surprise some folks.

The bolt. With the 90° adaptor you have an extra sealing surface under the head of the bolt, for a total of 3.

Without the adaptor you only have 2, the filter and the gasket under the plate.

I honestly don't give a crap about the rest of it. Plenty of magnum engines have gone 200k+ with the shorter filter. Hell I have 170k+ on the 5.9 in my Dakota. Not worried about it at all.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

The bolt. With the 90° adaptor you have an extra sealing surface under the head of the bolt, for a total of 3.

View attachment 1716217199

Without the adaptor you only have 2, the filter and the gasket under the plate.

I honestly don't give a crap about the rest of it. Plenty of magnum engines have gone 200k+ with the shorter filter. Hell I have 170k+ on the 5.9 in my Dakota. Not worried about it at all.

If I can't get that simple bolt to not leak I'll go golfing.

If you are running basic stuff then it doesn't matter. I don't care what runs for 200k miles. Any time the pressure drops from the filter like that it ain't good.

Carry on.

 

[72bluNblu]

If I can't get that simple bolt to not leak I'll go golfing.

If you are running basic stuff then it doesn't matter. I don't care what runs for 200k miles. Any time the pressure drops from the filter like that it ain't good.

Carry on.

You asked, it's an extra sealing surface. Without the 90° adaptor assembly the gasket under the threaded adaptor for the sandwich plate is also covered by the other 2 gaskets.

What else matters? If the filter isn't adding longevity to the life of the engine, who cares? That's literally the only reason the oil filter is there. If your only concern is oil pressure then bypass the filter completely, the only reason for the filter is to make the bearings last longer and if you don't care about total mileage/engine longevity then it doesn't matter. I have no issues at all making more oil pressure than I even need.

Was your pressure drop comparison a long filter on a 90° adapter vs a short filter directly attached? Or was it short vs long both with the 90° adapter? Because that factory bolt and the additional distance in the 90° adaptor have to make a difference too.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

You asked, it's an extra sealing surface. Without the 90° adaptor assembly the gasket under the threaded adaptor for the sandwich plate is also covered by the other 2 gaskets.

What else matters? If the filter isn't adding longevity to the life of the engine, who cares? That's literally the only reason the oil filter is there. I have no issues at all making more oil pressure than I even need.

Was your pressure drop comparison a long filter on a 90° adapter vs a short filter directly attached? Or was it short vs long both with the 90° adapter? Because that factory bolt and the additional distance in the 90° adaptor have to make a difference too.

Both were done with the 90. Even a short filter won't fit on one set of dyno headers I have out there. And I'm pretty sure I can't get a shorty on with my headers either, but I'm not 100% sure of that ATM.

When I put my clunker on the dyno I will check to see if I can fit a short filter with my headers.

Unless I'm missing something, I can't think of a way to check the pressure drop across the filter without using the adapter. There is a port on the adapter I can use that shows pressure off the pump. So between that port and the oil pressure gauge port we can see the pressure drop across the filter.

I know I checked this probably in 1984, but it was on the car and there was no way to data log it back then. Plus I have totally spaced off the results due to the passing of time. And some jerk *** stole that note book.

 

[72bluNblu]

Both were done with the 90. Even a short filter won't fit on one set of dyno headers I have out there. And I'm pretty sure I can't get a shorty on with my headers either, but I'm not 100% sure of that ATM.

When I put my clunker on the dyno I will check to see if I can fit a short filter with my headers.

Unless I'm missing something, I can't think of a way to check the pressure drop across the filter without using the adapter. There is a port on the adapter I can use that shows pressure off the pump. So between that port and the oil pressure gauge port we can see the pressure drop across the filter.

I know I checked this probably in 1984, but it was on the car and there was no way to data log it back then. Plus I have totally spaced off the results due to the passing of time. And some jerk *** stole that note book.

So you're comparing apples to oranges then, and working off of a 40 year old experiment. Got it. You said the 90° adaptor was less restrictive than a shorter filter, but you never tried it? All your data was with the 90° adaptor then? C'mon man.

The short filter is a far greater restriction than the right angle adapter.

Based on no data, because you didn't test it, as you said yourself.

Any good set of headers will require a right angle adapter.

I don't know what you're running, but both Doug's and TTI long tubes clear the shorter filter just fine without the 90° adaptor, and they're pretty much the best you can buy off the shelf for an A-body. And the PS-2004 I run is shorter than what can be run too, because that Canton plate I run is thicker than the factory sandwich plate.

Chrysler knew the short filter was a bigger restriction. Keep it and use the longest filter you can fit. You engine will appreciate it.

Any maybe what Chrysler knew 50+ years ago isn't relevant anymore? Because just maybe filter technology has improved since then?

The Mopar filter I linked, which also fits the Doug's and TTI's without a 90° adaptor, is used on Mopar V10's (Vipers!!!), Gen III hemi's, and just everything with a magnum engine, etc. Just look at the application list. All of that stuff makes more power and lives longer than the LA's did from the factory.

 

[RustyRatRod]

So a 10-12 PSI loss across the filter is good with you? Not me. That’s a big restriction before the oil gets to the engine.

Like I said, no GOOD header will take a long filter without that adapter. Even your over rated TTI header can’t take a LONG filter without that adapter.

I've always run the biggest filter I can fit. I run the Motorcraft FL299 2 quart filter on the Valiant and on my Ford truck. More oil is always better.

 

[MoparMike1974]

I would like to know what you guys are doing wrong with these 90° filters that makes them leak. I have never had one leak and I have always run them on all my engines.
I always run the PH8A size instead of the short PH43 but im considering trying the small filter on my swinger. I have to pull the exhaust head pipe off to get the filter out. It wont come out the top or the bottom...this is with stock HP manifolds and TTI pipes. Usually it would come out the top but I have aftermarket AC and its in the way.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would like to know what you guys are doing wrong with these 90° filters that makes them leak. I have never had one leak and I have always run them on all my engines.
I always run the PH8A size instead of the short PH43 but im considering trying the small filter on my swinger. I have to pull the exhaust head pipe off to get the filter out. It wont come out the top or the bottom...this is with stock HP manifolds and TTI pipes. Usually it would come out the top but I have aftermarket AC and its in the way.

I agree. I've never had one leak, either. Nor have I had a LOT of the prolific problems that pop up in this site. I don't get it, either. I guess no one gets the MP books anymore.

 

[CRUZE 418]

My '72 318 leaked at the block, the casting was warped or something. I block sanded it and silicone finally stopped it.

 

[340six]

Quick follow up…since I have an Early A-Body, the TTI full length headers do not allow for the filter to be directly installed to the block.

You must use the factory 90 or a remote filter adapter.

It’s a pain in the *** with the early A-body

Might be on early A.
My 1971 and 1972 E Body's came with them from factory.
My 1973 340 A Body came with one too.
I never had leaks from them.
And both the E Body's were daily everywhere driver's.
The early A Bodies ones have a different angle then later ones.
I have over a hundred filters made by Wix here. Short, Medium and Long ( some are private label)
Bought a close out at 50 cents to less than a dollar each. So that's what I run.

 

[340six]

Thanks for the update.
did you get it working without a leak?

 

[TXOval]

I’m currently removing my TTI headers and going with Sanderson DD9’s. This will allow me to run the filter straight to the block.

I did buy a Mopar Performance Aluminum 90 adapter, flat sanded for better sealing but will not install it now.

I’m not removing the headers strictly for the oil filter issue…on these early A-body cars there is simply no room for anything with full length headers.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I've always run the biggest filter I can fit. I run the Motorcraft FL299 2 quart filter on the Valiant and on my Ford truck. More oil is always better.

I agree