yea, i think the 340 is the way to go, if i can get everything i need. the guy is selling them together so i think all i need to figure out is the mounting components and the driveshaft and it will be fine. i will also need a tunnel for the transmission but with everything out of the car it should be way easier. i care more about having an stick than anything else at this should be the perfect swap. im going to go ahead and assume its going to need 1k to put it all in together and im going to try to get the guy go do 4k.
(Newbe) 273 to a 340 and tremec 5speed swap.
- Thread starter TheCudaKid
- Start date
-
ok thankyou, i have a center console but its for an auto car, i plan on converting that for a pistol shifter type of setup. what all went into setting up the clutch pedal. did u get one of the kits that takes out the break and gives you both (a break and clutch). did u go with the wire or a hydraulic system. im going to bring my compression tester, that is a great idea thank you very much. now that im reading about it you already had a stick car, so that must have been easier than starting from scratch. the only benefit i see is that i get to build everything the way i want the first time around. thankyou for your comment and i will look through your past posts when im free.
Thank you,
George
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
My car is a factory auto on the floor. The clutch brake pedal swap into auto brake pedal bracket up under dash. The pedals came in my swap kit from Silver Sport. I have pictures of everything in my build thread.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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- 25,845
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One of the things that makes a BB so attractive is the low-rpm torque.
But what you are actually feeling, once that engine is installed, is the combination of that engine-torque, multiplied by the gear-ratios in the transmission and in the the rearend.
What I mean is this;
say your 440 makes 440 footpounds at some very low rpm, and say your manual-transmission has a 2.66 low gear. and the rearend is a 2.94. Then, into the rear axles will go, up to;
440 x 2.66 x 2.94 = 3441 ftlbs which is a really big number. and everybody loves it. But it is so high, that flooring the gas pedal just kills the tires. A reasonably good number for 295 street tires is around 3000. which means that the 440 would be adequate with a 2.56 rear gear or with only 370 ftlbs, or like a single-barrel carb, lol.
By contrast; say you had a 318, putting out 318 ftlbs into that same trans but with the more popular 2.76 gears. Then
318 x 2.66 x 2.76 = 2334; so of course it feels a lil sucked out, cuz comparatively, it is. To get to 3000, the 318 would need to make;
3000/ (2.66low x 2.76grs) = 408 ftlbs, or
3000/ (2.66low x 318ftlbs) = 3.55 rear gears; Or
3000/ (3.09low x 318ftlbs) = 3.05 rear gears..
But say you had a 360, making 360ftlbs, into a 3.09 low gear with 4.30 gears, like I once had, lol; then
360 x 3.09 x 4.30 = 4783 ftlbs. This is 39% greater than the 4400. So not so sucked out now, is it!
But say Second gear in this trans is 1.92,
Then the 440 will be sitting at, up to
440 x 1.92 x 2.94 =2484ftlbs, compared to the 360 at
360 x 1.92 x 4.30 =2972, the 360 is still leading
And this will continue in every gear.
The downside is that, the hiway cruising-rpm; which for the 440 will be 65= 2380 versus the 360 at 3580. However, with a 5-speed/overdrive, this could be reduced to around 2540.
But because this 360combo has such a preponderance of torque multiplication, we could take out that super-low 3.09 trans and take out the 4.30s, in favor of the 2.66 gearset and 3.55s.
In first gear then, we would now have
360 x 2.66 x 3.55 = 3399, which compares well to 3441
of the 440. and in Second we would get
360 x 1.92 x 3.55= 2454, comparing well to the 440@ 2484
but in overdrive, we now get 65=2100.
So in every respect, as a city car, the 360 is feeling like a 440 with 2.94s.
But you say it's not fair to install 2.94s on the 440!
Well; look at the number, the street chassis cannot handle those numbers anyway and giving the 2.94s to the 440, gives it at least a fighting chance on the cruise rpm.
Either of these combo's will already smoke the tires at WOT all the way thru First gear, and probably to 50/55 mph in Second. And Either of these combos will pull a trailer. and Either of these combos will be a joy to drive around town.
But you ask, what about the 340?
Well same deal, except to match the 440/2.94s/Second gear, it will need 10% more rear gear, so 3.73s; for a first gear of
340 x 2.66 x 3.73 = 3373ftlbs. and a Second gear of
340 x 1.92 x 3.73 = 2552, Both of which compare well to the 440 and are more than adequate for to have fun with, in a street chassis, and finally; in overdrive, the cruise rpm is
65= 2200 purrrrrrrrrrfect
What the 5-speed does for the 340, means that you can take a lotta camshaft out of it. You can build it stock, or even with a smaller camshaft than stock, to pick up some mpgs at 65=2200rpm....... and still make the 440/2.94 numbers in First and Second
Having said that;
a 360 with a Mopar A833-overdrive is IMO the ideal combo for this simply because it is so cheap.
The trans has ratios of 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od. To get the Second gear to match the 440, she would need ;
2484/(1.67 x 360) = 4.11s, for, 2470 ftlbs
First gear would then be up to;
360 x 3.09 x 4.11 = 4572, a ridiculously high number, and she cruises at 65= 2430
Case closed,
except for, I am talking about a stock 360 with a 4bbl. And, that combo of 1.67 x 4.11 will hit 65 @ 5555 rpm@ WOT, about perfect; so fourth being a stretch is not so big a deal. and since the numbers are so high, you could easily sacrifice some of that. My favorite for this combo would be 3.55s, for 65=2100, and
360 x 3.09 x 3.55 = 3950 which is more than enough for whatever street tires you install, and, Second gear is
360 x 1.67 x 3.55= 2134 ftlbs which is still 86% of the 440s 2484, and again, more than adequate.
I ran this combo( A833od/3.55s) for several years, and was pretty happy with it; allbeit, my 360 was a torque-monster.
In the end tho, with a bigger camshaft, having lost some bottom-end torque, I went with the Commando 3.09 low gearset/3.55s/and a GearVendors overdrive. It's been that way now since 2004.
BTW-1
I just gotta say, having spent two decades with a 360 on this last combo, for me the most important lesson I learned was that for me, the Roadgear of 6.82, was all that mattered; with cruise rpm a closer second. The engine doesn't care how you get that number. Any combination of trans gear times rear end, that got me at least close to there with my 360, was gonna be just fine. and so;
Rear gear time Trans gear;
3.55 x 1.92= 6.82 in Second
4.11 x 1.67= 6.86 ^
4.30 x 1.67= 7.18 ^
3.73 x 1.77= 6.60 ^
3.91 x 1.77= 6.92 ^
2.76 x 2.66= 7.34 in First
4.88 x 1.40= 6.83 in Third, yes I really tried it.
BTW-2
As to cruise rpm; If you have a factory Ignition Distributor, there is no good reason to cruise at under 2000, because it is impossible for this distributor to provide adequate spark advance. 2400 is a good place to be; 2200 if you're willing to work at it.
Without adequate ignition-advance, your fuel-economy cannot be optimized.
BTW-3
I'm just tryinta save you;
money, time, fabrication, and aggravation.
BTW-4
I think my favorite combo for this notchie, would be a
273-4bbl/T5 combo, which, if my notes are right, has ratios
of 3.83-2.33-1.44-1.00-.79od These gears offer very nice progressive splits, and are perfect for the 273.
With 3.55s this would give you;
273 x 3.55 x 3.83= 3712 in 1st, comparing to 3441/440,
273 x 3.55 x 2.33= 2258 in 2nd, comparing to 2484/440,
and 65= 2270, again, purrrrrfect
BTW-5
I have to say this for Rumble; else he jumps on me;
All numbers are WOT potentials, and apparently do not reflect the driving habits of most men. Which is why we all seem to build 400+hp engines...... or want to install strokers or 440s ............
Apparently I am a one of none, WOT throttle-stabber.
But what you are actually feeling, once that engine is installed, is the combination of that engine-torque, multiplied by the gear-ratios in the transmission and in the the rearend.
What I mean is this;
say your 440 makes 440 footpounds at some very low rpm, and say your manual-transmission has a 2.66 low gear. and the rearend is a 2.94. Then, into the rear axles will go, up to;
440 x 2.66 x 2.94 = 3441 ftlbs which is a really big number. and everybody loves it. But it is so high, that flooring the gas pedal just kills the tires. A reasonably good number for 295 street tires is around 3000. which means that the 440 would be adequate with a 2.56 rear gear or with only 370 ftlbs, or like a single-barrel carb, lol.
By contrast; say you had a 318, putting out 318 ftlbs into that same trans but with the more popular 2.76 gears. Then
318 x 2.66 x 2.76 = 2334; so of course it feels a lil sucked out, cuz comparatively, it is. To get to 3000, the 318 would need to make;
3000/ (2.66low x 2.76grs) = 408 ftlbs, or
3000/ (2.66low x 318ftlbs) = 3.55 rear gears; Or
3000/ (3.09low x 318ftlbs) = 3.05 rear gears..
But say you had a 360, making 360ftlbs, into a 3.09 low gear with 4.30 gears, like I once had, lol; then
360 x 3.09 x 4.30 = 4783 ftlbs. This is 39% greater than the 4400. So not so sucked out now, is it!
But say Second gear in this trans is 1.92,
Then the 440 will be sitting at, up to
440 x 1.92 x 2.94 =2484ftlbs, compared to the 360 at
360 x 1.92 x 4.30 =2972, the 360 is still leading
And this will continue in every gear.
The downside is that, the hiway cruising-rpm; which for the 440 will be 65= 2380 versus the 360 at 3580. However, with a 5-speed/overdrive, this could be reduced to around 2540.
But because this 360combo has such a preponderance of torque multiplication, we could take out that super-low 3.09 trans and take out the 4.30s, in favor of the 2.66 gearset and 3.55s.
In first gear then, we would now have
360 x 2.66 x 3.55 = 3399, which compares well to 3441
of the 440. and in Second we would get
360 x 1.92 x 3.55= 2454, comparing well to the 440@ 2484
but in overdrive, we now get 65=2100.
So in every respect, as a city car, the 360 is feeling like a 440 with 2.94s.
But you say it's not fair to install 2.94s on the 440!
Well; look at the number, the street chassis cannot handle those numbers anyway and giving the 2.94s to the 440, gives it at least a fighting chance on the cruise rpm.
Either of these combo's will already smoke the tires at WOT all the way thru First gear, and probably to 50/55 mph in Second. And Either of these combos will pull a trailer. and Either of these combos will be a joy to drive around town.
But you ask, what about the 340?
Well same deal, except to match the 440/2.94s/Second gear, it will need 10% more rear gear, so 3.73s; for a first gear of
340 x 2.66 x 3.73 = 3373ftlbs. and a Second gear of
340 x 1.92 x 3.73 = 2552, Both of which compare well to the 440 and are more than adequate for to have fun with, in a street chassis, and finally; in overdrive, the cruise rpm is
65= 2200 purrrrrrrrrrfect
What the 5-speed does for the 340, means that you can take a lotta camshaft out of it. You can build it stock, or even with a smaller camshaft than stock, to pick up some mpgs at 65=2200rpm....... and still make the 440/2.94 numbers in First and Second
Having said that;
a 360 with a Mopar A833-overdrive is IMO the ideal combo for this simply because it is so cheap.
The trans has ratios of 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od. To get the Second gear to match the 440, she would need ;
2484/(1.67 x 360) = 4.11s, for, 2470 ftlbs
First gear would then be up to;
360 x 3.09 x 4.11 = 4572, a ridiculously high number, and she cruises at 65= 2430
Case closed,
except for, I am talking about a stock 360 with a 4bbl. And, that combo of 1.67 x 4.11 will hit 65 @ 5555 rpm@ WOT, about perfect; so fourth being a stretch is not so big a deal. and since the numbers are so high, you could easily sacrifice some of that. My favorite for this combo would be 3.55s, for 65=2100, and
360 x 3.09 x 3.55 = 3950 which is more than enough for whatever street tires you install, and, Second gear is
360 x 1.67 x 3.55= 2134 ftlbs which is still 86% of the 440s 2484, and again, more than adequate.
I ran this combo( A833od/3.55s) for several years, and was pretty happy with it; allbeit, my 360 was a torque-monster.
In the end tho, with a bigger camshaft, having lost some bottom-end torque, I went with the Commando 3.09 low gearset/3.55s/and a GearVendors overdrive. It's been that way now since 2004.
BTW-1
I just gotta say, having spent two decades with a 360 on this last combo, for me the most important lesson I learned was that for me, the Roadgear of 6.82, was all that mattered; with cruise rpm a closer second. The engine doesn't care how you get that number. Any combination of trans gear times rear end, that got me at least close to there with my 360, was gonna be just fine. and so;
Rear gear time Trans gear;
3.55 x 1.92= 6.82 in Second
4.11 x 1.67= 6.86 ^
4.30 x 1.67= 7.18 ^
3.73 x 1.77= 6.60 ^
3.91 x 1.77= 6.92 ^
2.76 x 2.66= 7.34 in First
4.88 x 1.40= 6.83 in Third, yes I really tried it.
BTW-2
As to cruise rpm; If you have a factory Ignition Distributor, there is no good reason to cruise at under 2000, because it is impossible for this distributor to provide adequate spark advance. 2400 is a good place to be; 2200 if you're willing to work at it.
Without adequate ignition-advance, your fuel-economy cannot be optimized.
BTW-3
I'm just tryinta save you;
money, time, fabrication, and aggravation.
BTW-4
I think my favorite combo for this notchie, would be a
273-4bbl/T5 combo, which, if my notes are right, has ratios
of 3.83-2.33-1.44-1.00-.79od These gears offer very nice progressive splits, and are perfect for the 273.
With 3.55s this would give you;
273 x 3.55 x 3.83= 3712 in 1st, comparing to 3441/440,
273 x 3.55 x 2.33= 2258 in 2nd, comparing to 2484/440,
and 65= 2270, again, purrrrrfect
BTW-5
I have to say this for Rumble; else he jumps on me;
All numbers are WOT potentials, and apparently do not reflect the driving habits of most men. Which is why we all seem to build 400+hp engines...... or want to install strokers or 440s ............
Apparently I am a one of none, WOT throttle-stabber.
Last edited:
Well you never said anything about any abilities did you? You immediately went from a 273 to a 440...then to a 340 5 spd lol. This is a public forum, so unfortunately for you, realists can post in. And will.continie to do so.
Yeah a hard sell on your m20. I get that lol.
Did you see the articles link? Yeah have you read thru it?
Do some of your own research, instead of gimme gimme gimme, I'm gonna flip.
It's realism not negativity.
Yeah a hard sell on your m20. I get that lol.
Did you see the articles link? Yeah have you read thru it?
Do some of your own research, instead of gimme gimme gimme, I'm gonna flip.
It's realism not negativity.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Also, TKX can be had with two diff gear ratios. Prob same with TKO . Its ideal to match trans gear ratios to eng torque curve and rear axle ratio. Otherwise it will be sub optimal.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
The 340 swap makes WAY more sense than the 440 swap! The easiest route with this swap, would be to buy what the dude has, sell the Tremec and related junk that goes with it and swap an A body 833 4 speed setup into the car. You could buy every bit of the 833 swap stuff off this forum, or just pony up and buy it from Brewers for known good stuff. @Dan Brewer has anything and everything you need to do an 833 swap. That's his family business and he's been at it along with his dad Wayne, since he was a kid.
Do the headers in the pic come with the motor? If so, find out what body they fit and what brand they are. TTI or Doug's headers are A body specific and there is a difference between Early A (64-66) and Late A (67-76). If you swap to a 4 speed, you also need to be planning to swap the rearend to an 8 3/4. The rearend in the car will grenade pretty quickly with a hot 340, 4 speed and a young man that enjoys the new found power with gears to row. Don't ask me how I know.....lol. Good luck to you George. It's nice to see your enthusiasm and I admire your patience and respect with the comments from some of the grumps who've forgotten what it was like to be new to the car hobby with little to no experience. You'll gain experience with every bolt you turn! Hang in there man.
Do the headers in the pic come with the motor? If so, find out what body they fit and what brand they are. TTI or Doug's headers are A body specific and there is a difference between Early A (64-66) and Late A (67-76). If you swap to a 4 speed, you also need to be planning to swap the rearend to an 8 3/4. The rearend in the car will grenade pretty quickly with a hot 340, 4 speed and a young man that enjoys the new found power with gears to row. Don't ask me how I know.....lol. Good luck to you George. It's nice to see your enthusiasm and I admire your patience and respect with the comments from some of the grumps who've forgotten what it was like to be new to the car hobby with little to no experience. You'll gain experience with every bolt you turn! Hang in there man.
So, George, I’m always in the camp of the young guns here, I’ve had a few under my wing, and they have become great friends, and they have helped open this old dogs eyes to a lot of new tricks, and I appreciate that. But, here’s what I see going on here….
You seem to keep confusing building your “dream car” and doing a “flip” on this Barracuda. They are two distinctly different approaches. I posted a post in your big block thread and I am going to post it here as well.
First, to flip a car, you have to buy low, do most of the work yourself, and make the flip car a sound investment for the buyer. You need to create a platform for the buyer to take the reins and make their vision of what they want the car to be. Spending $5k your proposed drivetrain choices for this car is what YOU want, not what the car needs. Not replacing the rear end when adding a 340 and a 4 speed or Tremec is simply wasting money on this drivetrain. For example, I bought a 70 Dart with a built 440 for $2500. The entire passenger side of the car was wiped out. Why? Because it was originally a slant 6 car, and still had 9” drum brakes and a 7 1/4” rear end. On its maiden voyage, the drivetrain instantly overpowered the rest of the car, he went into the ditch because he couldn’t stop, and it tore the guts out of the inferior rear end. I ended up with a very stout motor that went into my buddies race car and parted out the rest.
If this Barracuda is your dream car with a hot motor and a 4 speed, then keep it and do what YOU want to it. You already paid keeper money for it, not flipper money. If you’re intent on flipping it, read my recent post on your big block thread and take that into consideration.
In the end, I want you to join the ranks of all of our great young guns here, and work your way up to your dream car. Look to @Kegan B, Caleb @75slant6,and Rani @Primcess Valiant and see what they do with their car projects. They’ve inspired me over the years with their increasing knowledge and determination to make their cars just what they want them to be. I wish you the best in all you do, you sound like a great young man with a lot of smarts and ambition to match, and I hope your time with your Dad is well spent, a lot of us Dads would love to have that connection with our own sons!
@AJ/FormS whew buddy you love to write books. Gotta be short and sweet people don't have the time brother.
@TheCudaKid Looking at the original post again. That engine looks pretty sweet. One thing that jumps out at me is the binder with the documents. Whoever has this engine is anal about documentation which is a good thing. Another thing that's jumping out at me. It's a new engine, with new Edelbrock heads, a very nice looking accessory drive kit, Harlan Sharp rockers. There's a lot of money in this engine already. You might want to ask about receipts for any machining work.
Even ignoring the transmission, $5500 is a steal. No way in hell you could replicate that for $5500 starting from scratch.
Forget about a BB swap, especially if this is a flip car.
@TheCudaKid Looking at the original post again. That engine looks pretty sweet. One thing that jumps out at me is the binder with the documents. Whoever has this engine is anal about documentation which is a good thing. Another thing that's jumping out at me. It's a new engine, with new Edelbrock heads, a very nice looking accessory drive kit, Harlan Sharp rockers. There's a lot of money in this engine already. You might want to ask about receipts for any machining work.
Even ignoring the transmission, $5500 is a steal. No way in hell you could replicate that for $5500 starting from scratch.
Forget about a BB swap, especially if this is a flip car.
DionR
Well-Known Member
TKX still needs to have the crossmember removed even if it is more compact than a TKX. Not as much floor pan work, but not a bolt in either.
The right TKO might have the mods to keep the crossmember like the kits from Kreisler did but the output shaft is low if the crossmember is kept. Workable, but not ideal.
The right TKO might have the mods to keep the crossmember like the kits from Kreisler did but the output shaft is low if the crossmember is kept. Workable, but not ideal.
Hmmmm..........
Ok, I will start off by saying welcome to FABO, and I hope you are doing something that you are going to enjoy.
You have stated that you are in high school, work part time, and the car is a weekend project that gives you a chance to spend some good quality time with your dad. All great stuff. I am trying to remember being 17 and in high school, working part time, those were some fun times. I had a lot of great plans then too, but reality for me was most were far from my reach financially. It sounds like that is less of an issue for you, and that's great.
I read your thread on dropping a 440 into your 67 Barracuda and was starting to get the wrong idea about what you were looking for.
Reading this thread, I think you have accepted the reality that the amount of money and work you would need to do to get the 440 in and running is a little more complicated than it seemed, so a small block is the better way to go. As for the engine, a 340 should be an easy near drop in replacement for the 273, so that's a big problem solved. A package deal including a tremec could be a great deal, but as many others have already stated, the transmission will require a lot of fabrication to make it work in the car you have. Why not sell the tremec, or keep it for yourself for a future project and go with an automatic transmission? A 904 can be built to support a 340, and should be what came with your 273, so you know it fits. You could also use a 727 with a little bit of "clearancing" for fitment, but if you still have the 7 1/4 differential, it won't take long for that to grenade. Upgrades there can be an 8 3/4 Chrysler, an 8 1/4 Chrysler, or an 8.8 Ford sourced from an Explorer, search engine will help you find threads related to this.
Bottom line is that it's your project and your money, don't let others tell you that you can't do something, but you will be best off by keeping it simple. You sound like you have a lot of sense, but need more experience and the only way to get that is by doing.
I took auto shop in high school, like many others here on FABO, and I have learned from experience. One of my classmates built a 1974 Chevy Vega, powered by a stout 350 V8 and automatic transmission, in class. Including building his own framerails with 2x3 inch steel tube. I helped him pull the original 4 cylinder engine by hand in his parent's driveway, they didn't even have a garage. Sure, he had help from older friends who had done it before, but he did most of the work himself.
Good luck and keep us updated on your progress George.
Ok, I will start off by saying welcome to FABO, and I hope you are doing something that you are going to enjoy.
You have stated that you are in high school, work part time, and the car is a weekend project that gives you a chance to spend some good quality time with your dad. All great stuff. I am trying to remember being 17 and in high school, working part time, those were some fun times. I had a lot of great plans then too, but reality for me was most were far from my reach financially. It sounds like that is less of an issue for you, and that's great.
I read your thread on dropping a 440 into your 67 Barracuda and was starting to get the wrong idea about what you were looking for.
Reading this thread, I think you have accepted the reality that the amount of money and work you would need to do to get the 440 in and running is a little more complicated than it seemed, so a small block is the better way to go. As for the engine, a 340 should be an easy near drop in replacement for the 273, so that's a big problem solved. A package deal including a tremec could be a great deal, but as many others have already stated, the transmission will require a lot of fabrication to make it work in the car you have. Why not sell the tremec, or keep it for yourself for a future project and go with an automatic transmission? A 904 can be built to support a 340, and should be what came with your 273, so you know it fits. You could also use a 727 with a little bit of "clearancing" for fitment, but if you still have the 7 1/4 differential, it won't take long for that to grenade. Upgrades there can be an 8 3/4 Chrysler, an 8 1/4 Chrysler, or an 8.8 Ford sourced from an Explorer, search engine will help you find threads related to this.
Bottom line is that it's your project and your money, don't let others tell you that you can't do something, but you will be best off by keeping it simple. You sound like you have a lot of sense, but need more experience and the only way to get that is by doing.
I took auto shop in high school, like many others here on FABO, and I have learned from experience. One of my classmates built a 1974 Chevy Vega, powered by a stout 350 V8 and automatic transmission, in class. Including building his own framerails with 2x3 inch steel tube. I helped him pull the original 4 cylinder engine by hand in his parent's driveway, they didn't even have a garage. Sure, he had help from older friends who had done it before, but he did most of the work himself.
Good luck and keep us updated on your progress George.
the 440 was definitely a stretch haha. glad i had everyone here to help kindly and sometimes less kindly persuade me in another direction, im definitely trying to avoid an automatic, even tho a stick swap may be tedious its what would truly make me happy with this car. thankyou for your comment my only question for you is were i should look to buy a new rear end, everyones telling me i need to change it out but i dont know were i would need to look to purchase one, especially because you cant get something like that shipping without paying crazy fees, at least to my knowledge. thank you very much for your comment it is very much appreciated.
Thanks,
George.
think im going to just sell it if I end up buying this engine. thankyou for your comment,
-George.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
A lot of ppl on this forum went to junk yard pulled an 8.8 rear out of Explorer and put it in an A Body. They are plenty strong and have rear disc brakes.
1995-2001 ford explorer. thanks for the help. do you know what they cost, i can spend this weekend trying to find one.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
A lot of pick and pulls post prices online. About 10 years back I pulled 8.8 out of 95 mustang they charged me $70. I sold it for $200. But they will charge a tad more for rotors and calipers. Several ppl on this forum swapped the rear with the disc brakes onto an A Body. Prob cheapest way to get a strong rear under the car.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
And different shock plates and U bolts to get the rear mounted (don't forget the Explorer 8.8 rear needs one side narrowed to even things up under an A body), a new driveshaft made to hook things up; and then you'll need to do a front brake swap in order to have the same bolt pattern front and rear, and then a different master cylinder to accommodate the different brakes, and an adjustable proportioning valve to get the front and back to play nice together, different brake lines and hoses to hook up all the new parts... get ready for the snowball effect.
OP, the first thing you REALLY, REALLY need to do is decide if you're building this to be what YOU want and to make YOU happy, or if you're building it to flip. You keep bouncing between the two concepts. Two COMPLETELY different approaches, which will take you in two different directions- which will get you different advice and suggestions. You can't realistically do both without taking a bath on the whole thing in the end.
OP, the first thing you REALLY, REALLY need to do is decide if you're building this to be what YOU want and to make YOU happy, or if you're building it to flip. You keep bouncing between the two concepts. Two COMPLETELY different approaches, which will take you in two different directions- which will get you different advice and suggestions. You can't realistically do both without taking a bath on the whole thing in the end.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
i think he said that the front suspension and brakes were already done. but as to what's on there? who knows!
100% on the rear end swap. unless you spend beaucoup bucks it's hardly a drop in, and even then there's still some side quest style work: e-brake cables, pinion angle, brake line hook ups.
best case he's got big bolt pattern up front that he upgraded to when everything got done. if it's still small bolt, then either that needs to get upgraded to big bolt or hunt down a small bolt rear ($$) or do a 9" up with custom axles ($$).
and gawd forbid the fronts are still drum! that money on a rebuild is a wash. ain't nobody buying no 340/5spd car in small bolt drums for that kind of cash!
you're spot on with the assessment of the build. you gotta choose one lane or the other, building it for yourself there is a different approach vs a flip. if you're building it just to build it and the idea is to enjoy it and maybe down the line to flip it, the chances of making money are still slim to none. but on a flip, you have to build with the specific intention of flipping it and that means a lot of the decisions, directions and overall choices are specifically geared toward that end.
100% on the rear end swap. unless you spend beaucoup bucks it's hardly a drop in, and even then there's still some side quest style work: e-brake cables, pinion angle, brake line hook ups.
best case he's got big bolt pattern up front that he upgraded to when everything got done. if it's still small bolt, then either that needs to get upgraded to big bolt or hunt down a small bolt rear ($$) or do a 9" up with custom axles ($$).
and gawd forbid the fronts are still drum! that money on a rebuild is a wash. ain't nobody buying no 340/5spd car in small bolt drums for that kind of cash!
you're spot on with the assessment of the build. you gotta choose one lane or the other, building it for yourself there is a different approach vs a flip. if you're building it just to build it and the idea is to enjoy it and maybe down the line to flip it, the chances of making money are still slim to none. but on a flip, you have to build with the specific intention of flipping it and that means a lot of the decisions, directions and overall choices are specifically geared toward that end.
yea im trying go build an awesome car for me and not for whats in my budget for the flip. the good thing is i haven't committed to anything yet, witch means i still have all this time to decide were im going with the car. thanks so much anyway!
Breaks have been done, aswell as front suspension. im definitely struggling with not going crazy with the build. this car has all the potential in the world. to be honest i should just get the 273 block machined and rebuild it myself, put 2k into it and slap my 4 barrel carb on with a 318 intake i have and spend this swap money on the inside.
i think its just to much money for everything and the car will be to modded out. think im just ganna rebuild 273 myself
mopar head
Well-Known Member
Young blood, make a plan and stick to it. It`s the only way things get done.
Good luck.
I also have a 67 notch. It was born a 273 2bbl, 904, 7.25 rear. It had a 318 when I got it.
I wanted more and sourced a 69 340 with it`s #`s 4 speed and an 8.75sg rear.
That configuration is a blast, plenty of power. If you experienced a 340 notch, you`d probably fall in love and may never want to get rid of it. I did and am still enjoying it after 27 years.
We`re die hard Mopar fans here and most of us probably don't like to hear the word flip.
You should of kept that to yourself.
Good luck.
I also have a 67 notch. It was born a 273 2bbl, 904, 7.25 rear. It had a 318 when I got it.
I wanted more and sourced a 69 340 with it`s #`s 4 speed and an 8.75sg rear.
That configuration is a blast, plenty of power. If you experienced a 340 notch, you`d probably fall in love and may never want to get rid of it. I did and am still enjoying it after 27 years.
We`re die hard Mopar fans here and most of us probably don't like to hear the word flip.
You should of kept that to yourself.
You'll have $4k wrapped up in rebuilding the 273. I wouldn't bother at least not for a flip car.i think its just to much money for everything and the car will be to modded out. think im just ganna rebuild 273 myself
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Don't put yourself down cause you are young ,there are 50 + year olds on YT that don't know what they are doing with cars and display it daily for clicks LOL!
Cheapest thing to do is a 318 even if you re-ring and bearing and gasket the engine...(what used to be called an "overhaul")then sell the car "as is" no warranty its a classic car that's the game with that. Tell the new owner they can have "the original engine but it needs rebuilt" finish the flip and move on...the 340 is worth more sold separately without the car. This is just basic "business" ...
Cheapest thing to do is a 318 even if you re-ring and bearing and gasket the engine...(what used to be called an "overhaul")then sell the car "as is" no warranty its a classic car that's the game with that. Tell the new owner they can have "the original engine but it needs rebuilt" finish the flip and move on...the 340 is worth more sold separately without the car. This is just basic "business" ...
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I would be on lookout for a 360 magnum factory roller cam engine. Trucks, vans, cars ect some of those had them. They already have high flow heads ect.
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