Newbie needs help,my Duster won't start

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lebdog74

lebdog74

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I have a 74 Plymouth Duster. I can't get it to start. Had problems all last summer not wanting to start when it was hot. Then towrds the end of fall went to start it and it would just turn over but not fire. thought it was an extension of summer problems and not having a heated garage i gave up until today. thought it was a carb problem but it is getting fuel. so i checked a spark plug and no spark. distributer cap and rotor looked good so i checked the coil. the connections on coil are getting juice but no spark at the end of the coil wire. swapped coil with another one that worked last time it was used still nothing. so I tried another ballast and still nothing. could the ignition box be bad? anyway to test it? any other ideas? any help appreciated. thanks
 
Get a 12V test lamp, ground it, remove the coil wire from the COIL and use the probe to check for spark at the coil tower when cranking.


If no spark, test for power (battery) at the coil positive, and crank the engine. Light should go bright/ dim / bright / dim as the engine cranks.

If no 12V power, recheck power at dark blue (at ballast) with key on, and recheck or replace ballast.

If you have power at the coil + but no bright/ dim light when cranking, loosen/ clean/ tighten box mounting screws

Remove ECU connector, work in/ out several times to clean, and try again.

If coil + does not now go bright/ dim when cranking BUT YOU DO HAVE SOME POWER, could be the box, could be the distributor

Check the reluctor gap at .008 and make sure it does not hit the pickup coil. Remove dist. connector, hook to your digi meter on AC volts and crank engine. It should generate 1V at least AC. If not, "OHM" the connector, see if it shoes continuity, and check for continuity to ground. (Should not have any, should be inifinite)

Since a reluctor/ pickup is cheaper than a ECU if after adjusting the reluctor gap does not get you anywhere, I'd replace the pickup and reluctor.

If you replace the pickup and no go, make absolutely sure you DO have power and replace the ECU.
 
i'll check the coil tower tomorrow like you said but we did check the coil positive and it did get brighter when we cranked the motor. however the test light also showed that the negative side had power. it was dim then when cranked it got bright
 
If all else fails, check the bulkhead connector at the firewall. It might be melted, but try to pull the connectors off and check the middle connector; (lower left if you are facing it) This is where it melts.

My issue was same. No hot start, but when cool; started. Connectors melted and a common problem.
 
The negative side should blick on/ off as you crank the engine, showing the points are opening/ closing Stay with this thread. Everytime you/ someone posts, it will bump to the top.
 
Is this a car with a switch in the passenger seat? They can go bad and the car won't start. Been a while since I messed with one of these. Can't remember if it would crank and not start, or if it would'nt crank at all. With electrical, either is probably possible.
 
Make sure your ignition box is grounded. As in the body of the box is grounded to the chassis
 
thanks everyone. I gave up and called in some help. he hauled it to his garage and after tinkering awhile he went to try and start it and it fired right up. however as soon as he left off the key it shut off. he tried again then it fired and stayed running as long as he held the key still. as soon as he moved the key it shut down. so we ordered a igniton switch and the tumblers. hoping this solves my problems. thanks again
 
When you check your reluctor gap make sure you use a BRASS feeler gauge. A regular steel one will kill the pickup. Also make sure the seat belt interlock is not working on your car. This was a '74 only aberration that was supposed to make you fasten your belt before the car would start. It opened the ignition ground and the car would grind and grind but not hit a lick. To correct this just reach under the seat and disconnect the pigtail from the sensor mounted on the seat springs on both sides of the car. Did this to my '74 Charger before I drove it off the dealer's lot and it ran for years with no problems.
 
lebdog74 said:
thanks everyone. I gave up and called in some help. he hauled it to his garage and after tinkering awhile he went to try and start it and it fired right up. however as soon as he left off the key it shut off. he tried again then it fired and stayed running as long as he held the key still. as soon as he moved the key it shut down. so we ordered a igniton switch and the tumblers. hoping this solves my problems. thanks again
Click to expand...

Well he screwed up. Firing on start, quitting on "run" is classic ballast resistor.
 
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