Newbie Super Six question

-
wally_x

wally_x

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Location
Los Angeles
Hey everyone,

First off these forums are AWESOME, and thanks for any help you guru's can give me. I recently bought a 71' Swinger with a /6 and am looking to do some mild performance upgrades. I like the idea of going the super six route, and found this on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-SUPER...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d4f31cb4&vxp=mtr

My question is: Does this include all the important linkage parts you need (so you don't burn up your tranny) AND is this a good deal? Keep in mind I'd still need to find a 2 bb carb and would like to upgrade the exhaust at the same time. Was looking at these hooker headers maybe. What do you gents think? Any thoughts, info would be awesome.
 
The price isn't bad for the intake but it will go up. I have been searching for super six intakes for the past month on ebay and every time they have sold for atleast 170 bucks. I ended up getting a 4 barrel intake and going with an aftermarket trans kickdown setup.

I have the same headers but I have not installed them yet since I am waiting to get all the parts for the intake side too. I have heard you have to re-route the trans lines is required and going to a floor shifter makes more room too.
 
hhmmmm, Yeah I was thinking maybe a 4 barrel instead as well. Got a line on a clifford intake and a holley 390 cfm. Would work well with the hooker headers I think. What after market trans linkage did you go with?

I'll search around the forums, but can anyone link to a good resource on what you need and how to upgrade to to the 4 barrel, linkage, re running trans lines, good gasket choices etc. Especially from anyone who has gone the clifford/390/hooker header route.

OR any other sage advice on the topic. Also random other question back on Super Six. How do you ID one in a junk yard? Are any aspens or volars with a 2 bb super sixes? Going to hit up the junkyards near my house later this week. Thanks everyone!
 
I have 4 of these intake set-ups I've picked up over the years. One I'm keeping and 2 are manual tranny set-ups. Use to be able to get them for about $80 complete (intake,carb, kick down, air cleaner, intake and exhaust manifolds).

Looks like I need to have a sale...
 
Hey Val-100,

YOu talking about super six set ups for sale? Carb, intake, air cleaner, linkage and exhaust? Sounds pretty good to me! Are they a matching set from the same car? PM me sir and lets talk.
 
First off, welcome to the best site for info. I have a 71 also. To ID a 2bbl in a yard. 2bbl carb are held on with 4 bolts. Also look in truck up to 86, I think thats when they stopped useing them. I search for a long time for 1 with no luck. Ending up getting a Offen 4bbl. Althou little much for a stock slant, it will work great with head upgrade later. I went with a Lokar kick down. I just looked at the yard to get linkage from a 4bbl van and had to make it work. You could just buy from places like Summit. Hope this info helps ya out.
 
Yup. I bought an Offenhsauser 4 brl with a 390cfm myself. Was getting ready to install and everyone I respected here told me it's a waste of time until I first port and polish, better cam, and exhaust. So until I can get a head job done, it's collecting dust.
 
I have headers and an Aussiespeed short runner intake sitting in my dining room. I am still trying to figure out where I want to go from here. I want to do an EFI setup and a little boost but I have to wait till I get my holiday bonus to buy the parts.
 
In my opinion the absolute best performance upgrade for a bone stock slant six is a disc brake swap. It doesn't matter how much power you can generate if all you have to slow you down is a set of 9" drums. Always no question the money should go into safety and chassis first then worry about power.
 
I bought my intake for 50 bucks. The carter that came off the 318 was 20 bucks.

Have I rebuilt the carb and found the linkages yet? Nope, still looking.
 
It might also be worth noting that you'll need a new throttle cable, supposedly.

It's too long they say. I say, why not just let it flop wherever it please then, it's flexible. As long as its away from moving parts.
 
Thanks for all the awesome words and welcome! Mcnoople I completely agree and have already upgraded to discs in the front and rebuilt the entire front end. New UCA, rebuild LCA, new tie rods, new shocks and new master cylinder with power booster. Also replaced the shocks in the rear, and upgraded to bigger wheels and tires. Here's a link to some pix. It's currently at the body shop getting ready for paint!
 
HemiPar said:
First off, welcome to the best site for info. I have a 71 also. To ID a 2bbl in a yard. 2bbl carb are held on with 4 bolts. Also look in truck up to 86, I think thats when they stopped useing them. I search for a long time for 1 with no luck. Ending up getting a Offen 4bbl. Althou little much for a stock slant, it will work great with head upgrade later. I went with a Lokar kick down. I just looked at the yard to get linkage from a 4bbl van and had to make it work. You could just buy from places like Summit. Hope this info helps ya out.
Click to expand...

I think clifford or offy 4 barrel is the way I'll need to go. I just read that they never made the super six in cali (where I live) so finding one in a junk yard is going to be even harder. :(
 
I sure wouldn't pay $170 for a 2 barrel cast iron when a little more would get a 4 barrel aluminum and save much weight. I have heard of 2 barrel aluminum intakes, but must be rare. My personal hope is to rig MPFI in a cheap 1 barrel alum e-beam weld intake. I have the parts, but way down on my priority list.
 
BillGrissom said:
I have heard of 2 barrel aluminum intakes, but must be rare. My personal hope is to rig MPFI in a cheap 1 barrel alum e-beam weld intake. I have the parts, but way down on my priority list.
Click to expand...

I know MP used to sell a 2bbl alu intake. If you are going mpi on a 1 bbl intake you can get a sand cast aluminum 1bbl. I can't remember where mine came from, but I think it was a 87 ram. I have heard the welded intakes are prone to crack. It would be a shame to spend time having bungs installed just to have the intake crack.
 
/6 Matt said:
It might also be worth noting that you'll need a new throttle cable, supposedly.

It's too long they say. I say, why not just let it flop wherever it please then, it's flexible. As long as its away from moving parts.
Click to expand...
I used the factory 1. Not that long just maybe 6" twisted up.

As far as a 2bbl alum intake, well i have 1 i found after i did the 4bbl swap. it was on a truck from the late 70's. The top of motor caught fire and did scorth the intake but the price was right. Been a while since I dug it out, can't remember the brand name. May find it this weekend.
 
All I did was modify my stock iron 1brl to fit a holley 2brl, put a 265 solid lifter cam from clay smith, and hogged out my iron exh to match head ports. I'm getting about 22 mpg needs some tuning but works great. Would like to try a weber 32/36 and electronic ignition to see it I could get closer to 25 mpg
 
wally_x said:
I think clifford or offy 4 barrel is the way I'll need to go. I just read that they never made the super six in cali (where I live) so finding one in a junk yard is going to be even harder. :(
Click to expand...

You aren't going to find a 4 barrel setup in a junkyard either. You have to decide what goals you have for the car. Power? Economy? A little of both? The 2bbl setup will give you 20-22mpg on a nicely tuned setup with matching exhaust. I've heard a 4bbl can get up to 20mpg on the highway but you really have to feather the throttle to make sure you don't open up the secondaries. A 2bbl setup is much more forgiving. Do you want to spend a couple hundred or $500+ on a swap? You have to decide what you want from the car and then we can kind of give you a rough estimate on what you need.

Forget about that ebay auction. Doesn't come with the kickdown, carb or an air cleaner. You can end up spending a lot more that originally thought by piecing these things together. These guys that are picking up entire setups for $50 at yards are few and far between. Most 2bbl setups go for $150-300 online depending on condition and how complete the setups are.
 
Yep, ESP47's advice is right. You need to plan out exactly what you want the car to do (or not do, or do differently than it does now), and figure out your budget in terms of money, time, and effort, before you start buying parts. Otherwise the car will become a "driveway monument" that never gets done and driveable.

And McNoople's absolutely right about the need to pay attention to your ability to stop and steer (and see, and stay put in the car, and lots of other stuff besides going faster). See here (and read all the links from it).

Can't recommend 4bbl or headers on a regularly street-driven slant-6. You'll pour gasoline money hand over fist out the tailpipe and spend your free time fiddlefutzing around trying to get it to run all the way right, from cold start to hot restart and everything in between. "None for me, thanks, I'm driving".

Dutra Duals, on the other hand, are yes.

A 2bbl swap is an excellent upgrade. Finding a factory intake and kickdown setup for reasonable money is growing difficult. You may want to do the See the parallel 2bbl setup instead, which involves modifying a cheap and common 1bbl intake and modifying your existing kickdown linkage to suit, or see this thread for kickdown options. Photo documentation of a very well done parallel conversion (on an early car with rod-operated throttle linkage, not the cable type you have, which is actually easier to adapt) is here.
 
wally_x said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-SUPER...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d4f31cb4&vxp=mtr

My question is: Does this include all the important linkage parts you need (so you don't burn up your tranny) AND is this a good deal?
Click to expand...
No. I don't see the rods needed for the kickdown linkage. This is not a problem if you have a manual transmission. Can't say if it is a good deal as prices seem to be determined locally. (It's high for here.) FWIW, this appears to be an EGR manifold.

wally_x said:
Keep in mind I'd still need to find a 2 bb carb and would like to upgrade the exhaust at the same time. Was looking at these hooker headers maybe. What do you gents think? Any thoughts, info would be awesome.
Click to expand...

Suggest you get what you got running as close to flawlessly as possible. This will provide a good baseline for decisions to be made. In the process, make a prioritized list of what you want improve. Then proceed on the map you make.

FWIW: The V-8 cable throttle linkage will be long enough for either the 2 bbl or 4 bbl. Lokkar and Bouchillon Performance make cable kickdown linkages. The cheapest seat-of-the-pants feel for improved acceleration is to swap the rear gear ratio for a higher numerically higher ratio. Understand, that the rear gear change will lower fuel mileage. It really depends on what you want and where you're willing to compromise, if need be, to get it. Have fun with both the process and the end result for your improvements
 
mcnoople said:
I have heard the welded intakes are prone to crack. It would be a shame to spend time having bungs installed just to have the intake crack.
Click to expand...
Re the e-beam welded alum intakes, I have read the same, actually not cracks, but porous welds. However one can seal w/ epoxy paint. I don't plan to weld in bungs (too cheap). I can epoxy copper fittings (see posts), but will first try just fitting the injector tips in small holes w/ O-ring face seals. It just needs to seal air leaks.
 
The E-beam welded intakes must be inspected carefully for floor cracks, and carefully prepped to seal the weld bead before installation. The link goes to a description of one good technique. I used another: once the intake has passed inspection for floor cracks, have it shot-peened then powder-coated in "aluminum". Then obtain a tube of Valco 71195 Aluminum RTV and a Tube-Grip. Heat the intake in a kitchen oven set to 200°F or so, pull it out, and run a fast bead of the RTV around the whole weld bead. Smear the RTV into the bead (your finger will want some insulation, like a rag, so it doesn't get burnt), then chill the manifold -- I did this in winter, so I just took the intake outside and let it cool way down. The contraction of air within the weld bead pockets will pull the soft RTV into the pockets, which are already sealed by the peening and powder coating. The aluminum RTV disappears (can't be distinguished from the "aluminum" powder coating) and you've got triple insurance against leaks without spending much money or effort.
 
If you still want to go with a 2bbl, I have a carb that needs rebuilding, and also have all the kickdown parts.....throttle cable bracket, and stuff also.I DONT have an extra intake,I think I sold my last one......will look for sure. We will be going to LA at the beginning of next month, so shipping wont hurt you, you could come to Garden grove to get it.:cheers:
If you are interested, let me know.....I am in Eureka, Cali.
Andrew/Kidd
 
Kidd said:
If you still want to go with a 2bbl, I have a carb that needs rebuilding, and also have all the kickdown parts.....throttle cable bracket, and stuff also.I DONT have an extra intake,I think I sold my last one......will look for sure. We will be going to LA at the beginning of next month, so shipping wont hurt you, you could come to Garden grove to get it.:cheers:
If you are interested, let me know.....I am in Eureka, Cali.
Andrew/Kidd
Click to expand...

If he's not interested in these parts, I am...
Perhaps you'd be stopping in the bay area on your way down to LA?...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top