next!! no fuel gauge

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dartmathis

mopar or nocar
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Nov 11, 2007
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Pinckneyville Illinois
ok so now i got the last problem solved on to the next....my fuel gauge is not working.....i am somewhat of a dumb a** in sorts when it comes to anything electrical.....is there a set of steps i can follow to figure out why its not working??? help is greatly appriciated
thanks
 
You can start by grounding the wire at the sensor by the gas tank then turn the key on and see if you get the gauge to peg "full" If so the problem is at the sensor inside the gas tank. If not you either have a gauge problem or wiring problem. You didn't mention if your temperature and oil gauges work. If they do your dash regulator is probably ok.
 
Something relatively easy to check is the ground strap that clips over the fuel line in front of the sending unit. It may have fallen off or the electrical connections become so dirty/corroded that a good ground isn't being established. Unfortunately, that wasn't the problem with mine.
 
i dont have an oil gauge i just have the light and it does work....and i have went to an aftermaket gauge on the temperature sender...how many volts should be going through the wire to the sender...i can test all that with a multi meter
 
ok so i grounded out the wire to the fuel sender and the guage never moved. i then grounded the wire out to the factory temp sender it didn't move either. i then pulled the cluster changed the regulater, checked all conection and cleaned all conections put every thing back together and now the temp gauge works but still no fuel. i ground the wire again at still doesn't move. i got my multi meter out and i have no voltage at all coming through that wire so my problem is in a wire or that path in the board on the cluster? is there anyone who has a wiring schematic for this or do i jsut need to chase it myself
 
It would be immensely handy if you'd tell us what you are working on. Here's some issues on the gauges:

First, if your cluster has TWO PC boards (like 67) the instrument regulator/ limiter output power must go OUT the board that it's located on and BACK IN on the board the other gauge is on.

The cluster connector pins get loose/ corroded from the board. Resolder them, find replacements, or as I did, I just went to Molex-style connectors from Rad Schack

Next, the instrument regulator/ limiter. The brass springy fingers which act as the "socket" for the limiter MAY NOT be making good contact with the board traces. Either solder the brass fingers to the board, or use short jumper wires and solder them to the brass, and then to the board traces

Don't assume that just because you may have replaced the limiter that it is GOOD. "New" does not mean "good."

Next, the output power goes to the gauges. Make sure the gauges are ACTUALLY connected to the boards. Loosen/ tighten the nuts on the gauge studs, or consider tearing it apart and cleaning the board contact points. Ground points, (mounting screws) gauge studs, and lamp sockets, as well as the connector pins are all suspect

Find the ground(s) trace(s) on the board(s) and make sure they are making contact with the casting, and with each other, THEN add a separate wire bolted to the metal column support behind the cluster, and hooked to a ground point on the cluster, preferably the ground PC board trace itself.

Your circuit path is the --dark blue "ignition run" from the ignition switch--comes to the cluster--feeds the voltage regulator/ limiter--out of the limiter--splits off to the two gauges--through the two gauges--out of the cluster on the two sender wire connections--and off to the senders--and GROUND

THINK ABOUT the above circuit path. It is like a CHAIN going AROUND. ANY break in that chain at any point causes failure.
 
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