Next retarded question

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XakEp

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Ok, here's the next one. This is a little more immediate than the supercharger, which is going on next year.

A buddy of mine with a 67 pickup and I have been exchanging smack talk for the last few years while we work on our cars. We're finally about done with them, and we're going to finally see who is faster this year at the track.

I dont like to lose, and I'm certainly not going to lose to a chevy without a fight. I just picked up this setup on ebay, and I already have a bottle. What else will I need to get to have a working nitrous setup on my Duster?

FOr what its work, my car has the following mods -

318 motor, healthy
unknown comp cam
headers, dual exhaust
M1 manifold
3.91 gears
625CFM carb
FBO "whole shebang" ignition

My buddy has a 400 small block, headers, RV cam and 650 CFM carb. After I race him I get to race his brother (who REALLY talks ****) with a stock LT1 camaro. Heh...
 
Well I got some questions;

What kind of pistons are you running?
What tires are you running?
Suspension and chassis mods?
How much nitrous you plan to use?
Whats the transmission?
 
BoredandStroked said:
Well I got some questions;

What kind of pistons are you running?
Click to expand...
Stock
What tires are you running?
Click to expand...
Bigger and wider than stock. WHen I get home I'll get the size off the tire.
Suspension and chassis mods?
Click to expand...
Suspension is not stock, but I dont know what was put on it by the previous owner.
How much nitrous you plan to use?
Click to expand...
150 shot
Whats the transmission?
Click to expand...
727
 
I have raced pickups that I have owned and will tell you they have a horrible problem with traction. They are light in the back and have stiff rear suspensions which allows no weight transfer.

Just get your car hooked up and you will have no problem leaving him. But get ready for the "I have so much power I can't get it hooked up" story and "If I could get it hooked up I would blow you away" crap. They will always have excuses why they got beat.


Chuck
 
Haha Chuck, if I only had a penny for the times I have heard that and will hear it in the future.

True, just get it hooked up. 318 stock pistons I highly doubt will hold 150 shot of nitrous. Take your car out on a test and tune night and find out what tire pressure in the rear it likes, what RPM you should leave at so the tires dont spin but you get a great launch, and if you shift the trans yourself try to shift in the sweet spot.
 
150 shot is less than 20 HP per cylinder. Stock Hondas can do better than that. Provided I use good gas and have plenty of fuel, I dont see why the car cant take it.

Just to be safe I guess I could put a 100 shot on it, but we'll see what happens. If I lose a piston I can always get some Weisecos in there.
 
True, but we arent Hondas lol. Nitrous puts alot of pressure on the bottom end and rotating assembly. I refuse to run nitrous but you can if you wish.
 
Nitrous wont put any more pressure on the bottom end than anything else that increases the airflow in a motor would. And an extra 15-20 HP per cylinder certainly wont break cast pistons if there's no pinging going on.

Regardless, I still dont know what I'll need to complete the kit. Will I need a fuel solenoid AND a nitrous solenoid?
 
I've never run nitrous, but going from memory of what I've read, etc........ You'll need a fuel solenoid & a nitrous solenoid, an arming switch, a bottle with valve, a "trigger" switch (usually on the linkage, to activate at WOT), the associated plumbing, a fuel system that can absolutely deliver the extra fuel (probably an electric pump & large filter), & a fuel pressure gauge would be nice. I've probably forgotten something, but I'm sure somebody else will ring in. The only person I ever know who ran nitrous did it on a stock 302 in a Ford Maverick. I think he said "I broke two piston rings, but it was worth it!"
 
you have a lot of intake, who knows the cam, converter? and the heads? Idk about the truck, if that camaro hooks up you will really be relying on that nitrous if he can drive. Same goes for you, you slip up and he'll probably leave you.


Sorry but i hate nitrous for this reason. Chemical horsepower is only as good as long as you hold the button...But if thats how you like to talk crap is off the bottle, more power to you. Just remember if you barely beat that camaro, he'll wipe the floor with you if he made it fair game and put the squeeze on it.. :toothy7:
 
GoodysGotaCuda said:
you have a lot of intake, who knows the cam, converter? and the heads? Idk about the truck, if that camaro hooks up you will really be relying on that nitrous if he can drive. Same goes for you, you slip up and he'll probably leave you.


Sorry but i hate nitrous for this reason. Chemical horsepower is only as good as long as you hold the button...But if thats how you like to talk crap is off the bottle, more power to you. Just remember if you barely beat that camaro, he'll wipe the floor with you if he made it fair game and put the squeeze on it.. :toothy7:
Click to expand...

Heh, if he does that then I'll break out my DSM and he know he hasnt got a chance in hell again that.
 
XakEp said:
Nitrous wont put any more pressure on the bottom end than anything else that increases the airflow in a motor would. And an extra 15-20 HP per cylinder certainly wont break cast pistons if there's no pinging going on.
Click to expand...

You won't hear high speed detonation while going down the track. Pinging is one thing, but high speed detonation leads to melted pistons, blown head gaskets, pounded rod bearings, etc. By the time you hear anything while running nitrous, the damage will be done.

Plus, nitrous is an instaneous 150 extra HP, whereas a naturally aspirated motor will build that HP more gradually, for lack of a better term.

Go ahead and squeeze it. If you melt or break a piston, it's only a 318. You can put in a built 360 then. ;-)

Lee
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
 
Keep it Simple...
There are only four engine tuning variables to keep in mind when dealing with nitrous oxide. They are:
Bottle Pressure – Bottle Pressure should be between 900-950 psi.
Fuel Pressure – As a general rule, do not exceed 6% fuel pressure drop when the nitrous system is activated. For example, if the OEM states that 45 psi is an acceptable fuel pressure for a given vehicle, the fuel pressure drop seen when the nitrous system is activated should be no more than 2.7 psi.
Timing – Retard ignition timing 1-1/2 ° to 2° for every 50 hp of nitrous used.
Spark Plugs – 1 heat range colder for every 100 hp, non-projected type plug with a gap of .025 to .035.

From the edlebrock website.
 
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