Next step for more power (383)

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schmitt

schmitt

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Been braking in my 383 I built over winter and can tell I already am going to want to ad more power this coming winter.

Anything I can do to my current build to beef it up more? Stock valve train right now


Bore - 4.280

Stroke 3.38

Rod length 6.358

Gasket bore 4.40

Block deck height 9.960 (stock=9.980) Took .020 off

HG thickness - .039 (Felpro)

Piston to deck height - .000 to .005

Piston head volume - (-6) (KB400 .030 dome pistons)

Chamber size – 84cc (I'm using aluminum sidewinders from Mopartsracing.com *Todd*)

Total comp = 10.01:1


Comp Cam XE274H part number 21-224-4


Additional specs:

Weiand Action plus intake

Pro systems Holley pro series 4150 carb

Holley blue fuel pump (7psi)

440 source aluminum water pump (160 thermostat )

2500 stall

26” rear tires

Dana 60 3:55 gears
 
Probably one of the first and easiest power gains would be to discard that intake and buy a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. Part 1 of Hot Rod's Mopar Intake Manifold Shootout
You could change it this summer and feel an immediate seat of the pants gain.
I would carefully match the intake roof and side to the heads and leave the floor of the intake alone. Since it looks like your already have a really well thought out engine any huge power gains above this would require a roller cam, bigger bore, and a stroker kit.
Personally I think you have a really nice street combination there.
I run a Performer RPM on my 440 as well as a Comp Cams Extreme Energy roller that I really like a lot.
23-700-9(Three Bolt) - Xtreme Energy™ Street Mechanical Roller Camshafts
Probably after the intake a cam change is most cost effective power gain you could make. Changing from the cam you have to the small roller like I use is an easy 40-50HP and TQ increase. I would probably add some Hughes rocker shafts at this point as well.
Tom
 
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383s like to wind and 3.91 on up to 4.30 gears will give it more go as well....

It would also love a tunnel ram with single or dual carbs! Usually a 50 HP bolt on that doesn't need refilling.
 
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cam/port heads/gears

Problem is your under geared so if that is your limit going bigger cam will make it worse.

Roller cam with similar duration but more lift would help especially if you port the heads.
 
I'm running about 3000 rpm at 60mph right now so higher gears concern me some.

Thanks for all the tips so far
 
Another vote to change the intake to a Performer RPM. And more converter.
 
schmitt said:
I'm running about 3000 rpm at 60mph right now so higher gears concern me some.

Thanks for all the tips so far
Click to expand...

What converter do you have? That seems like a lot of slippage for just 3.55s.
 
I would say to stay away from more converter. If your cruising at 3000 rpms you want make sure you keep the rpm's above the stall speed. Adding more stall will cause the converter to slip making for poor fuel mileage and excessive heat in the transmission.
Intake, Cam, Stroker are the progressive steps I would plan for.

Tom
 
So what's it in and has it been to the track?

Sounds like an easy high 12s or better in a 3800# car.
 
YY1 said:
So what's it in and has it been to the track?

Sounds like an easy high 12s or better in a 3800# car.
Click to expand...


No track time
image.jpeg
 
Nice.

What does that weigh?

I've got an '80 short stepside to weigh, so no idea yet. Old, mild 440/833 OD.

My 2000 ext cab Dakota weighs 4200.
 
YY1 said:
Nice.

What does that weigh?

I've got an '80 short stepside to weigh, so no idea yet. Old, mild 440/833 OD.

My 2000 ext cab Dakota weighs 4200.
Click to expand...


Thanks
Haven't had a chance to get it on the scale yet
 
schmitt said:
Tci breakaway
Click to expand...

What a pos. TCI makes nothing but trouble. You can get a way better converter that flashes a lot higher and is really tight at cruise. Might be a good place to start.
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
Very Cool!! What year is your truck?

Tom
Click to expand...
Thanks It's a 69
I can't believe I would notice a difference between those intakes by looking at the numbers posted in the link you posted
 
That may be, but unless your using a lock up converter even the most efficient torque converter will still not achieve 100% coupling.Tom
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That's correct, which is why I said zero slip. The implication being that 3000/2678 =12% slip. And typically the cruise rpm will actually be 10%rpm below "loc-up" so in fact the 60 mph cruise rpm should be closer to 2400.
For it to be 3000, seems to indicate a gross speed-O error, or as Rusty said, "What a pos TCI"
 
schmitt said:
Thanks It's a 69
I can't believe I would notice a difference between those intakes by looking at the numbers posted in the link you posted
Click to expand...
You would notice a much more crisp throttle response. Plus side is if you want more power anyway your going to need a better intake and it's really hard to beat a Performer RPM for any street ride regardless of brand or engine size. Maybe someone has one close to you that would let you try it out? All I have is 440 parts or I would happily let you use one of mine for comparison.

Tom
 
You could go to the XE275HL cam, very similar duration, about .030 more lift. Or a hydraulic roller, which would be a little more still at the same duration. S/F....Ken M
 
All great stuff guys! Thank you

I've seen some great 408-410 360 stroker motors in the classifieds too hehe
 
With the combo posted, IMO, you have plenty of power in the engine. Swap engine parts if you wish, but I think that's a mistake.
 
RustyRatRod said:
With the combo posted, IMO, you have plenty of power in the engine. Swap engine parts if you wish, but I think that's a mistake.
Click to expand...
Yeah I think I need to do some more tuning yet with the carb and timing. Still breaking it in. Can only seem to run 12 degrees of initial timing or it starts hard hot.

Maybe upgrade the convertor this winter, better rocker setup (1.6)
I've heard the wieand intake vs Edie rpm debate a lot . Really unsure
 
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