nitrous setup help

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DusterBoy15

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ok i know i need a electric fuel pump so i will be getting the HOLLEY BLUE with the REGULATOR. What else do i need?

LINES?
fittings?
how do i do a return line to stock tank?

what fittings do i need? and how much line? 3/8 size
 
DusterBoy15 said:
ok i know i need a electric fuel pump so i will be getting the HOLLEY BLUE with the REGULATOR. What else do i need?

LINES?
fittings?
how do i do a return line to stock tank?

what fittings do i need? and how much line? 3/8 size
Click to expand...

Your going to have to measure the line yourself. I would run -8AN for all your feeds, and -6 for a return line. You can run the return line to the filler neck of your gas tank.
Make sure you get a return style regulator, the one that comes with the holley isn't that style.
How much are you going to spray? Are you running a single pump for both the engine and the nitrous?
 
like 100 shot since i was going to use kb107s i guess would be the max
i thought the one that comes with the pump is? if not then would i still need a return line? why if it will regulate the pressure and the fuel has no were to go
 
The holley regulator is a dead head regulator. No return line. Actually the holley regulator is good for spray. run at least 3/8" line from tank (1/2" preferred), the pickup in the tank should be the same size as the line, a fuel pressure guage isn't a bad idea either. Then there's the purge valve, and the bottle heater, to do it right, plan on spending double what the system cost. Ignition, buy the best you can. you have to pull 2 degrees of timing out for every 50hp shot. 100hp is 4 degrees. My mallory ign is programmed to pull 6 degrees of timing out whenever I power up the nitrous system. That way you can't forget.
 
Here's an example you can follow. Cut the fuel system in half for a small shot like that.

I ran two pumps, two regulators, a bottle heater, purge, two fuel pressure gauges, and a nitrous pressure gauge.

Fuel pressure is a MUST.
Nitrous pressure, a MUST. You can get away without it, but you can hurt your motor, or pop a bottle, depending if you have too little or too much pressure in the tank. I ran no less than 1000psi on my runs, and tried to stay around 1100.
You don't have to run a purge. You can run a push button parallel to the micro switch on the carb. When you push the button, it will spray both your nitrous and fuel down the intake, and purge it this way. This will cause the car to rev, clearing out the lines. Make sure you just tap the button, and do it a few times. I assume your running a carb set up, so this will be acceptable, and cool down your intake runners too.

The reason I said to ditch the holley regulator, is you stated you wanted a return system. Like previously mentioned, you don't have to, especially with the lower HP numbers you'll be running.
 
KBs in this build, and you're a first time "user"? Oh dear... ;)

Well, here's the way I do it. The factory 5/16 line will work, but really you should go larger. The "preferred" method for me is a rear sump on the fuel tank or cell. I run -10 from sump to filter, and filter to pump(pump in back of car...). -8 from pump to regulator, regulator to solenoid, and regulator to carb, plus the return line. Also, the regulator shipped wih the holley blue is not a return style. It's a dead head. You will need to buythe return style. Your return line should be the same size as the feed line, or your pressure readings and presures in teh system will be false high. Always free flow the NOS sytem (fuel only) into a bucket prior to running it. Set the pressure regulator with the lines and plate flowing fuel. A good way to do that is pull the float bowls, remove the floats leaving the needles and seats, and leave the lines connected. Then wire th solenoid to open and stay open. Lay the plate and the bowls in a spotlessly clean 5gal bucket, and hit the pump. Set the fuel pressure that way, then put it all back ont eh engien and you're set. Then you can jet the NOS or carb with no fear of fuel presure issues. Also, always use compressed air and I like to use brake clean to flush the newly made braided hose. Otherwise your NOS plate fuel bar will be full of debris alogn with the float bowls. Good luck.. remember, retard the timing 2° for every 100hp expected.
 
hmmm

well i dont have to use a return line right?

hmm nitrous on older cars is more difficult then on todays cars
 
No, you still need to know how it works, and what needs to be in place to make that happen. The return in not needed, but it doesnt hurt either. I ran a 175hp single plate for years witha stock 5/16 line and stock mechanical pump. But, I ran low pressures (3-4psi with the solenoid open) and changed the fuel jet to keep the mix decent. With old stuff, you have to tune the cars. The efi wont do it for you. So, YOU have to set teh timing curve. YOU have to jet the carb. YOU have to get everything plumbed right. You have to make adjustments. New cars, the basic system is a dry system that the factory ECM enrichens. Any idiot can do that. Well, some idiots from what I've run accross...lol.
 
if i run a electric fuel pump like the summit one thats the same as the holley blue. whats the max shot i can run 100 or 125? rembering that i dont have that much experience tunning but knowing the gaps for the pistons must be bigger
 
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