No chirp form first to second gear shift.

-
Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
9,454
Reaction score
491
Location
Belleville Canada
904 with the trans go 2 shift improver,is there any adjustment i can do to get the neck snappen shift from 1 to 2 also there is no bark when i shift from 1 to 2.I have had the same tranny with the same shift kit in the past, and it work great.It does shift way better than befor.Could it be the rear tire size 255 15 60, gear 276.Just wondering.The little 318 has great lower torque for sure.
 
There are many factors that play into getting a great shift from a tf trans. Was thus a used trans etc but u r right the tall heads and tall tires r certainly hindering ur shifts. Kim
 
Snake said:
904 with the trans go 2 shift improver,is there any adjustment i can do to get the neck snappen shift from 1 to 2 also there is no bark when i shift from 1 to 2.I have had the same tranny with the same shift kit in the past, and it work great.It does shift way better than befor.Could it be the rear tire size 255 15 60, gear 276.Just wondering.The little 318 has great lower torque for sure.
Click to expand...
Yep.... get rid of the 318 and get something with neck snapping ability...


Couldn't resist
 
Torque peak on stock teeners is around 2400, maybe a little higher. By 4500and beyond, things ain't looking so good anymore. Your 27" tires and 2.76s are a real handicap.And the 2bbl? well, see how fast you can run with one nostril plugged.
No I'm not being an azz, I can make a teener bark pretty good. But not fully handicapped.
But in case I got it all wrong,
There is such a thing as shift overlap. Every automatic has it to some degree or another. This is the time between shifts when one gear is out-shifting and the orher is coming in. All clutches are slipping at this time. If the lower gear hangs on too long or the incoming gear hits too hard, then for a brief moment they are both on, and the power gets sucked up like somebody applied the transbrake. The rpm falls, as does the nose and the car loses momentum.
But if the timing goes the other way, the engine rpm flares up, and there is a moment when almost no power is being delivered out the back.
The shift kit should seek to find a happy medium; with minimum flare and maximum power exchange.
The point is; maybe your kit is not doing it's job.
But Ima still thinking it takes a heck of a teener to put up a fight with the handicaps yours has.
 
OK I think I got it,my old Duster had 355 gear with sure grip and 235 14 60 rear tire wit a 318 4bb small cam headers purple cam,it sure shift great.
 
Yea the gear and tire size makes a difference but you don't want it shifting so hard it starts breaking parts, I have been there. I rebuild my own automatics, back when I had a 66 Nova I built a TH400 for it, I removed every third spring out of the 1-2 clutch pack, made it shift really hard (so hard it would shake the dash and pop the glove box open) with the turbo action valve body, then it was breaking hard parts, like a sprag twice and a rear end, same results when I built a 727 for a friends 65 Belvidere, so I learned over the years if you have any kind of HP you just want a firm crisp shift, NOT a neck breaking tire screaching shift unless you want to spend more time and money beefing up everything else around it. If it shifts fast and firm be happy with that.
 
3.55s are almost 29% more torque multiplication.And the tires have a torque arm that is over 9% greater. So your engine will feel more than 1/3 bigger out of the gate. And that's on top of any torque increasing mods that might have gone into the engine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top