No Dash Lights .. Fuse good

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'70_Duster_340

'70_Duster_340

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I've been hooking up a new tach and gauges, and have no dash lights.. I've got good voltage to every fuse except the one that's for the instrument lights.. I put a new fuse in and still no power there at all ...

Where do I start looking ??

Thanks,

Kenny
 
Hey you can go to "mymopar.com" and look under the tool section. They have wiring diagrams for your car. You can trace the power source to that fuse to find out where it is dead.
 
steptoe said:
Hey you can go to "mymopar.com" and look under the tool section. They have wiring diagrams for your car. You can trace the power source to that fuse to find out where it is dead.
Click to expand...

I KNOW you are right, and I have a '70 service manula... but when I look at those wiring diagrams it may as well be written in Chinese :toothy10: makes my head spin ... It's funny how some of us "get" some of the complex things, that others, like me, throw their hands up and say "wwwwwwhat?"
 
the power for the fuse comes from the headlight switch. my guess is the dimmer in the headlight switch for the dash light is bad ... the wire coming from the headlight switch for the dash lights is TAN. it goes to the fuse box and the other side of the fuse in the box is ORANGE wire. if you pull the switch and do not have +12v on the tan wire the switch is bad. did you try and trun up the dash lights with the dimmer on the headlight switch ?
 
I just fixed my dash lights this afternoon. Turned out to be the plug connection from the signal switch in the column to the wiring harness. I guess I didn't click it together all the way when I reassembled the car. It is located to the right of the fuse box, at the base of the dash. One side has a clear, or white, plastic plug connector.

Good Luck.

George
 
George R said:
I just fixed my dash lights this afternoon. Turned out to be the plug connection from the signal switch in the column to the wiring harness. I guess I didn't click it together all the way when I reassembled the car. It is located to the right of the fuse box, at the base of the dash. One side has a clear, or white, plastic plug connector.

Good Luck.

George
Click to expand...

Hey George !! Good to hear from you .. I checked all the plug connections so I don't think that's the problem.. Glad you solved yours ..
 
68_val_sedan said:
the power for the fuse comes from the headlight switch. my guess is the dimmer in the headlight switch for the dash light is bad ... the wire coming from the headlight switch for the dash lights is TAN. it goes to the fuse box and the other side of the fuse in the box is ORANGE wire. if you pull the switch and do not have +12v on the tan wire the switch is bad. did you try and trun up the dash lights with the dimmer on the headlight switch ?
Click to expand...

Thanks 68, I think you might be onto something here .. I will try turning the dimmer switch all the way up to see if it gives me power .. The headlight switch DOES feel a little gimp, and I was kinda looking at it today.. What's the trick in removing it ?? Looks like a slotted type nut holding it in.. Do I need any special tool ?

Thanks

Kenny
 
gotta push in the button on the switch behind the dash and pull out the stem and then unscrew the bezel
 
Thanks as always guys, appreciate the input.. I guess I'll have to find my little monkey fingers to get behind the switch to find that button... I'm assuming the install is just the opposite ? Anyone know if these switches are readily available at say a NAPA or other parts store ? It's been in there for 30 years that I know of, and is probably original.. If I'm gonna pull it out I may as well put a new one in..

Thanks again

Kenny
 
If you remove one screw holding the fuse box in place you have more room to feel for the button. To find a pic of the switch helps since the button is small and in an offset location. Remove the negative battery cable because you'll need to pull the switch fully one before pushing the release buton. The stem has a tapered end that guides it past the catch so dont push the button on the way back in or you'll wreck that catch.
When the dimmer feature is the only fault of otherwise good switch I choose to install a jumper that gives bright as possible dash lights regardless.
Turning the knob will still operate the dome light but doesn't effect the dash lights.
 
RedFish said:
If you remove one screw holding the fuse box in place you have more room to feel for the button. To find a pic of the switch helps since the button is small and in an offset location. Remove the negative battery cable because you'll need to pull the switch fully one before pushing the release buton. The stem has a tapered end that guides it past the catch so dont push the button on the way back in or you'll wreck that catch.
When the dimmer feature is the only fault of otherwise good switch I choose to install a jumper that gives bright as possible dash lights regardless.
Turning the knob will still operate the dome light but doesn't effect the dash lights.
Click to expand...

Thanks Red ... It looks like this is the switch, and the button in the center is the one I need to push ??

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=headlight+switch+&SM=1&SC=A

I'm also guessing it's on the top part of the switch? I've got my battery cut off switch working properly, so killing that s/b OK, right ??

Sorry for all the "dumb" questions guys, but I have to say that getting a good visualization and these kinds of pointers makes the actual jobs SO much easier for me, and what I really love about this forum...

Kenny
 
Well, I got the switch out and it appears to be shot .. A couple of the spades are really rusty, so I'm going to replace it .. So far, the only place I see one is at year one for $35. The female end of the connector doesn't look too bad, so I'll try cleaning it out w/ contact cleaner, and if that doesn't work I'll hit it super fast w/ my mini sandblaster .. That trick worked slick on the bulkhead connector -- looks new...

I had trouble getting my hand up there, so I loosened the bezel right up, and that allowed the switch enough play so I could push the release button..The knob itself came off first, but it seems to press back on really tight...

I had 12 volts at two of the wires inside the plug -- the double red one, an a black one w/ a white tracer..The rest showed no voltage... I'm hoping this is ok ??

Also, while I'm in there, the car came w/ a optional light kit. There's a map light toggle switch under the dash under the light switch which has been shot for a long time.. There's no power there, but hoping it's because it has to go from the headlight switch and through the fuse box first ??

Thanks guys,

Kenny
 
'70_Duster_340 said:
Well, I got the switch out and it appears to be shot .. A couple of the spades are really rusty, so I'm going to replace it .. So far, the only place I see one is at year one for $35. The female end of the connector doesn't look too bad, so I'll try cleaning it out w/ contact cleaner, and if that doesn't work I'll hit it super fast w/ my mini sandblaster .. That trick worked slick on the bulkhead connector -- looks new...

I had trouble getting my hand up there, so I loosened the bezel right up, and that allowed the switch enough play so I could push the release button..The knob itself came off first, but it seems to press back on really tight...

I had 12 volts at two of the wires inside the plug -- the double red one, an a black one w/ a white tracer..The rest showed no voltage... I'm hoping this is ok ??

Also, while I'm in there, the car came w/ a optional light kit. There's a map light toggle switch under the dash under the light switch which has been shot for a long time.. There's no power there, but hoping it's because it has to go from the headlight switch and through the fuse box first ??

Thanks guys,

Kenny
Click to expand...


Kragen sells them as well as shucks,checker,autozoner,carquest, napa for cheaper.
 
Well, it WAS the headlight switch. Got one from NAPA ($30) and all the dash lights are working again. Also all the new gauges and tach lights work and dim.. Nice !! I love it when a plan comes together !!

Thanks everyone,

Kenny
 
Glad it all worked out Ken.
I'm fighting a low speed stumble on my car right now, and I'm looking at the power brake booster suspecting an internal vacuum leak. I hope I can fix mine as easily as you fixed your problem.
Are you going to Lebannon Valley on Saturday? I hope to be there with the car.

George
 
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