No Power at Bulkhead

-
Hyper Henry

Hyper Henry

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
415
Reaction score
30
Location
Ontario, Canada
Trying finish up my MSD, fuel pump and dash wiring and I have no power at all coming into the interior through the bulkhead. Wanted to get power in so I can find some areas for keyed 12volt lines to finsh the wiring but now that I have no power at all at the bulkhead I don't know where to start??
How many places does power go into the bulkhead from the engine compartment and where?? I see two fusable links on the bulkhead in the engine comaprtment side but only one being used?? How can I repair bad connections at the bulkhead if that is the problem?? I know two of the plastic clips on the bulkhead connection in the engine compartment are broken and the wiring has been pretty badly spliced into over the years in the interior side so I am trying to repair as good as I can. Car is a 68 notchback that had a 318 auto and I am converting to a 383 4-speed.
:help::help::help:
 
I read a link were they yanked the main power wire out and drilled through the bulkhead and ran a staight power wire through the bulkhead.I had problems there also,so this is what I did also.It,s been working fine,but this year I bought a new 12 circut harness to replace the bulkhead.Cost was $98 on e-bag.
 
There are several areas you could be losing it. Should have only a few BIG conductors through the bulkhead,

One is "great big" (on diagram) follow from alternator through bulkhead "P" goes to a splice in under--dash harness AND THESE DO GO BAD and to ammeter

Comes back off ammeter "big red" (on diagram, through bulkhead "J" and to stud on starter relay

If the diagram is correct, the red/tr coming off the in-harness splice and going down to the bottom of the diagram is the "hot" feed to the fuse box

Another red comes off that splice and is the main feed to the cold side of the ign switch

So with engine off, your battery feeds off the starter relay stud through "J" at the bulkhead to the ammeter, through the ammeter, and to the in-harness splice. From there it feeds the fuse box "hot" and the ign switch


http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68BarracudaB.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68BarracudaA.jpg

I think I figured that right, although after some of today's detractors I'm beginning to wonder.
 
That's great inforamtion right there :notworth: I will get into it again today in the shop and let you know how I make out. Thanks very much :thumbup:


Derrick
 
Whooooo Hooooooo I have power at the dash and it turns over on the key now :-D Bad connections at the bulk head were the culprit. Getting close to firing up the motor for the first time :blob:

Thanks for help everyone.
Derrick
 
Bad connection at the bulkhead ? Better take care of the problem correctly before it gives ya a headache down the road.
 
I ended up doing what Scott said and and drilled it right through and made a solid connection that way. I thinK I am going to replace the entire bulkhead connection with a new one when I can afford to do so. From what I have been reading on here it looks like I should join the wires together at the amp meter as well so will do that next.

Thanks Everyone
 
My bulkhead connector was shot too...not sure what kind of a budget your on. If your on a budget like I was I used 3x12pin quick disconnect connectors. Painless makes them and they're 11bucks a piece, good thing about 12pin is that there are 3 banks of 4 pins, stock is 2 banks of 4pin's allowing wiring locations to stay stock. Later found radio shack has same ones for 3bucks a piece. Made a plate out of aluminum with a hole drilled for grommet to cover the bulkhead hole. You can check my restoration thread for pictures of it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top