FIRST, please learn terminology ............
CRANK..........starter operates and rotates engine
TURNS OVER.....same as above
FIRES..............coughs, attempts to run, may remain running
FIRES AND RUNS, or RUNS.........
Start by rigging a test gap at the coil. Either buy one or make, or "rig" a spark plug. Crank WITH THE key and see if you have spark.
Turn key to run. Disconnect distributor connector, and tap the bare end of the harness connector (not the distributor end) to ground. Each time you do so should produce a spark
DO NOT USE the coil wire to see spark, or at least check it first with your ohmeter. Suppressor wires can "burn" open internally and this includes the coil wire. Generally, I use either "solid core" coil wire for testing, or even a clip lead or scrap of low voltage wire. If you "hang it in the breeze" it works fine
"Work" all ignition connectors.........the distributor especially, the ECU, and the ballast in/ out several times to scrub the contacts clean and to "feel" for tightness. Inspect them carefully visually
The ECU MUST be grounded. Remove, scrape around the bolt holes and remount using star lock washers
Key in "run" make some measurements. Measure at coil PLUS should be somewhere between 6 and 10 volts depending on your coil.
Measure coil NEG it should be very low, perhaps 1 or 2 volts. If you have a tach, temporarily DISCONNECT the tach from the coil NEG
A coil can be tough to troubleshoot. That is the one thing that you might just want to keep a spare so you can "throw" at it. You don't need to ground a coil, just lay it nearby and hook it in, even if you use "clip" leads
