NO SPARK, GOOD COIL, GOOD SPARK PLUG

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hbeuving

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This forum has been very helpful and I've seen a lot of dedicated users helping on other threads. So I'm asking for help myself.

I manually removed the ground wire from the ignition module connector and "flicked it" against the frame. I got a decent/weak spark by doing this. When test spark with the ground wire connected back into the ignition module and crank the engine, I get no spark. Is my ignition module getting bad ground? Is my stator not sending the right signal? Do I have weak voltage to the coil? How can I figure out the cause of no spark?
 
Sorry I have no idea what you mean by "ground wire." There is no ground wire in a factory or aftermarket Mopar ignition system. The module is grounded at the case and MUST be so

Some things......

Hook it all up, clip your meter to the coil + and ground and turn the key to "run." Should be somewhere between 5-10v or so. this shows that the current is going from the ignition switch through the ballast through the coil, and to ground through the module.

Twist the key to start and read the meter. Should be bare minimum of 10.5V or more.

Connect the meter to coil NEG and to ground and with key in "run" you should not read more than 1-2V or so. This again shows current is going through coil and that the module is grounded

If there is any question, and I would check, about the module ground, remove it, scrape around the mounting holes on the module and firewall, and re-mount using start lock washers

Remove dist connect, and module connector, and inspect them for corrosion. Work them in/ out to scrub the terminals and "feel" for connector tightness.

Next "rig" a test gap such as old plug opened up, with (if possible) a solid wire from coil tower to test gap. Turn key to "run." Separate the distributor connector and tap the bare end of the engine bay side of the connector repeatedly to ground. Each tap should produce 1 nice blue "snap" spark.

Inspect inside the distributor, for wet, dirt, junk, in the cap, inspect the rotor for spark "punch through" to the shaft, and inspect the pickup and reluctor for strike damage, debri or other damage. Estimate bearing play. If possible check the rotor gap with a brass feeler gauge. You once could buy those singly from Oh'Really?s I believe .008" that is inches not metric.

Hook your meter on low AC that is right AC volts to the dist. connector and crank the engine or spin the shaft. Pickup should generate about 1V AC
 
Even if you do not convert to something like a GM HEI module I made this up for emergencies and have also used it for test firing engines and for troubleshooting. It has been handy. Just a box with an GM HEI module and a coil. Green clip is ground, yellow is to battery, and then hook up the coil secondary wire

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LOL, this was one of my better efforts. Hacked out a carb adapter to fit a beer barrel EFI manifold, stuck a distributor in, and the above "emergency/ test" HEI and test ran this engine

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@67Dart273 Is gonna be the guy to listen to on this topic. He was nice enough to talk me thru mine on the phone. Mine was a bad ground to the ecu. Then after that I had intermittent issues after that my ecu was bad. I changed ecu and grounded it really good and I haven't had an issue for a couple years now. I have some videos on the topic if your interested in watching them I'll share a link here. It was an ongoing process for a while so the videos kinda bounce around while I'm diagnosing the issue. Let me know and I'll share the links here
 
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