no spark while cranking

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Princess Valiant

Princess Valiant

A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
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1968 dodge dart .......slant six ....it does have electronic ignition........one day i noticed it was getting harder and harder to start .......soooo much cranking was needed ......i put an in-line spark tester in place and found that there is no spark while cranking but when the key goes into run position then it sparks .....so if luck would be there then it could crank a few times and and catch and start as the key would go to run ........once it starts it purrs like a kitten ........i changed the ignition switch (thanks TXdart) and no change ....i changed the ballast resistor .....no change .....i grounded the block with jumper cables while cranking .....no change ......any one have any idea what this might be .....this is never going to work on a cold morning LOL
 

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The circuit from the start position to the distributor, that bypasses the resistor, has an open, or to the electronic ignition module. You have a wiring diagram?
 
Starting power during cranking is referred to as "IGN2" by chrysler. This is a simple extra contact in the switch, goes out on a brown wire THROUGH THE BULKHEAD (hint) and to the coil positive side of the ballast resistor. In other words, you you should find this brown hooked to the ballast.

If not you need to find the wire

If it is there, make sure what the problem IS

Take (preferably) a meter or a test lamp and clip it from the coil + to ground and crank the engine. Disable the ignition by grounding the high tension coil wire. What do you have for a reading? Something? Nothing?

If the wire seems to be hooked up, your number one and number two suspects are the bulkhead connector, and the ignition switch connector. Since you changed the switch, it probably is OK

Another thing you can try is to hook a jumper lead from the battery (starter relay stud) to the coil + terminal. Don't leave this there for long. See if the car fires right up. If so, another indicator that the brown ain't'a workin'
 
This is WAY easier to find and fix than it is to tell somebody how to do it, isn't it?
 
I'm having similar issues I had the motor running last year with no issues electrically after I pulled the motor and trans and since I reinstalled the motor and trans I've been fighting the same problem
I guess I can add this to my ever growing list of s@#% to do
 
its amazing what a good body ground to the ECU will do along with the engine to body ground
double check it Rani, it was my issue.
 
check out starting the car in nutueral it may be neuteral safty switch or check your ballast and starter celiod and mopars do luv grounds put at least 3 on it but you might want to pop off the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is turning strong if all good yet wait till its dark then let some 1 turn it 4 u and you and look for sparks every where with any luck you find the problem just hate electrical problems good luck theres some good info on this site that can save you big bucks
 
I had this problem at the Nats.. no spark... we changed the brain box, ballast, coil, (I carry extras) still nothing.. we noticed every now and then after cranking when I would let off the key (go from start to run) it would try to fire.. i'd get a weak spark..just at that moment.. changed the distributor and rotor.. she fired right up.. been fine ever since
 
SpeedracerX said:
I had this problem at the Nats.. no spark... we changed the brain box, ballast, coil, (I carry extras) still nothing.. we noticed every now and then after cranking when I would let off the key (go from start to run) it would try to fire.. i'd get a weak spark..just at that moment.. changed the distributor and rotor.. she fired right up.. been fine ever since
Click to expand...

I know one sure way to solve the heck outta this problem for good. :-k :D
 
it could be so many things as simple as your coil to distributor wire is loose or bad or bad ignition switch to bad dist or short in wiring. Start at the switch and follow your way through ( as mentioned before) Make sure everything has a good solid ground.
 
srixon4406 said:
Yah traibeast I've been thinking of converting over to your hei design I like the link you posted on the controller and the fact it will retard the timing
Click to expand...

Not without that rabid gator computer it won't.
But lets not hijack.:prayer:
 
Check the bulkhead connector and press the wires that charge the start side of your ballast together. Happens on my Dart occasionally.

Use a test light to check the wires on each side of your ballast. One side should be hot in run (which you appear to have) and the other side, closer to the coil should be hot in start.
 
I've come to the conclusion that my pertronix ignitor ignition took a crap I've checked all my connections and i have voltage where it's supposed to be but the coil won't discharge which leads me to believe that either the pick up or sending unit is bad in the dizzy. I just ordered one of TrailBeast Hei kits so hopefully all my ignition problems will be solved
 
this problem has been getting progressivly worse ....it was still working somewhat so it was really hard to narrow it down .......this last wednsday i was out in town and drove back home ...parked in the driveway and she was out for the count ........now it was not even trying.........well bcoz i have had limited time to work on it....the process took awile .....today after trying some more things, i decided to strip away the non adhesive electrical from the dash harness and bingo.....couldnt see it when it was taped up.....the wire from ignition switch to bulkhead connector ....totally cooked. i replaced it and now the car starts with one crank.:cheers::cheers:
 

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