no third gear

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RobbAdams

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I have a 66 barracuda, with a slant six and unknown automatic transmission.

I removed my carb to rebuild it this week end, when I re-assembled everything, I have been having trouble with my transmission. I asume it is something to do with the Throttle Pressure(Kickdown) linkage. My car will not engage Third (Drive) no matter what the throttle pressure. I have a type II (69-73)throttle linkage according to my trusty haynes manual. I did drive the car for about 5 miles, before I realized that I had forgotten to re-attach the spring that is holding the slotted rod (sort of "J" shaped) I have since re-attached the spring, but I still have no Third gear.

I am hoping that something just needs to be adjusted after taking all this linkage apart to remove the Carb.

Before the carb work, I did find that I had to let off the gas a bit sometimes to get the car to shift from second to drive. Now when I do so it feels like the tranny is kind of in between second and drive perhaps slipping?
 
Have you tried adjusting the throttle pressure linkage? There should be an adjustment right close to the carb. Just shorten the rod 2-3 turns and it should go into 3rd faster. Play with it until you get it shifting where you want it. Try that and see what happens and post back your results.
 
Do you mean to adjust the the slotted part on the throttle pressure rod, or the adjusment on the throttle cable?

Robb
 
The linkage should be adjusted so that the rod to the trans is all of the way back when the throttle is all the way open.
 
[QUOTE='64 Cuda]The linkage should be adjusted so that the rod to the trans is all of the way back when the throttle is all the way open.[/QUOTE]

This is usually the case but not allways. Since his don't want to shift into 3rd he may have to adjust it so it don't push it all the way back.

Robb the linkage going to the trans. (the slotted part) is threaded onto the part that you said is a sort of "J" hook. There is a lock nut there that is a 1/2". Loosen that locknut and thread your slotted part on farther by 2-3 turns so it's like the trans linkage isn't being pushed back as far when your pushing your throttle down. Test drive it and see how it does and post back with your results.
 
If it is tofar back it will not want to come out of passing gear.

I think that is write
 
I tried both forward, nad back, and had No luck. I have notice when pulling the rod all the way Forward (towards the front of the car) there is some slack in the Throttle lever before the spring part resists pushing it back, so when I release the throttle, the lever does not return to the fully forward position. Is this normal? Is there some sort of spring inside the tranny that needs to be replaced?

Robb
 
Robb I believe the way your describing the way your linkage is acting sounds correct but if it still isn't shifting into 3rd appparently there is a problem somewhere else. Is 3rd gear the only problem? Is reverse working correctly? The reason I ask is the front clutch assy. controls 3rd and reverse and if it's burned and not engaging you won't have 3rd gear or reverse.
 
Reverse is working fine, when I move the rod all the way forward the shifts from 1st to second are really quick, if I move it all the way back the shifts are longer (higher RPM). It does seem to try and go into third when I let off the gas in the most forward position, but seems to be slipping, or going into a neutral like state?

One more thing, There is an eye hole on the throttle control valve, that looks like a spring or something should be attached to it am I missing something here. the eye hole is about 6-8 inches below the pinch bolt on the slotted adjuster link.

Robb
 
Robb when it's in the most forward position and it goes into 2nd quickly it should go into 3rd real quickly also. Unfortunatley I haven't ever worked on a slant 6 linkage setup so I'm unfamilar with exactly how thair setup so I'm not sure on the last question. I do know there is allways a spring somewhere that pulls the linkage back forward.

I'd say next step is to check the band adjustment. The front band is the one to be mainly concerned with and that's the easiest to get at. You don't have to drop the pan to get to it. It's on the drivers side right above the linkage. Your Haynes book should show how to adjust it. Just loosen the locknut and tighted the inner screw to 72 inch lbs. Then back it off 2-1/2 turns then tighten the locknut making sure the inner screw dosen't turn.
 
When making this adjustment is it important for the car to be level or anything? I dont really have acess to a hoist, so I was thinking I would just jack it put it on stands then crawl underneath?

Robb
 
Here is my 2 cents, I burned up a tranny years ago thinking the linkage was just for kick-down purposes. 16 at the time. Assuming the trans worked properly before the rebuild, verify the lever on the trans moves in accordance with movement of the linkage at the carb. In theory, when the carb is wide open, the level should be all the way back, you fine tune from there. The spring should hold the carb linkage pin to the back of the slot, meaning as soon as the butterfly opens, you should be moving the linkage and ultimately the lever on the trans at the same time. I found when mine was not connected properly, I thought I had no 3rd gear, but in actuality, i think it was going from 1st to 3rd very quickly, resulting in the mushy feel. Sounds to me like your not getting enough input to the trans from the carb linkage being open. Curious if this helps or i'm wasting space.
 
Rob, have you tried running it through the gears while shifting each one manually? Run it up to about 2500 rpm in each gear and then shift it manually to see what happens.
 
I hasve been thinking about this for the last couple of days, and I think this problem was starting to appear befopre the carb re-build. When coastin with the foot off the gas, and then getting back on the throttle sometime it would seem to fluctuate between second and third for a while before derciding what gear was appropriate. I am going to try and take it to a local tranny shop tomorrow, that says they will do a free initial inspection including removal of the pan, before they start work, and see what they have to say.

Robb
 
That's not a bad idea Robb. Hopefully their a good reputable shop. Not a crooked place that will tell you it needs totally rebuilt and charge you $750 when it just needs simple a band adjustment. I've seen places like that. Actually worked for one for a short time. When the guy hired me he talked real nice. After I started working there I saw how he didn't mind lying to customers. I quit as soon as I could find a new job.
 
Turns out I have the incorrect dipstick, on my transmission and I was 3 quarts low! Working much better now :banghead:
 
I dont drive this car much, the problem has returned, and adding fluid ws of no help. I am also seeing a delay when engaging Reverse, of 2-3 seconds. I think this baby is toast.

Robb
 
Bummer. Sounds like running it low on fluid probably trashed the clutches. I have a A500 out of a Dakota in the garage right now that was ran low on fluid and it burned up the front clutches.
 
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