noisey 340

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drawson

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Got the 36 painted and got the new engine put together (comp cam & lifters , hughes adjustable rockers and shafts )and ran but had lifters that wouldn't pump up , returned two sets of comp cams lifters for this, now using mopar performance lifters figuring that the non oil thru design would be the cure , not,still have some that are noisy , rt side most noticeable , have set them at 1.5 turns from zero lash,2 turns from zero no difference, oil pressure starts at 60+ but does drop when hot & runs 10 psi + for every 1k rpm, stock melling hv pump , engine runs good ( it is a 6-pak ), but the tapping noise is killing me ,I have been told to, and am tempted to just drive it , but sure would like to resolve the issue but exactly what is causing it , I feel it is an oil volume problem more than oil pressure, any one have any ideas ?
 

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Make sure the rockers are not hitting the retainers and the pushrods are not rubbing in the head tubes. My hughes rockers at 1/2 turn is .030 I had 2 Comp lifters collapse after a few hundred miles for no reason. I swapped all of them out with MP and have no problems.
 
sleepyhead416 said:
Check for missing oil plug by dist drive gear.
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Xs 2! Also, I've read that HV oil pumps may run the pan dry and hence cause low oil pressure problems. I' sure others on this site can weigh-in if my recollection is accurate or not.:violent1:
 
I have read a couple of articles regarding the fast rate cams, when running the lifter drops off the ramp so quickly that it causes clacking of the valves, clacking when they close.

I don't know if there is any truth to it or not, but I run a Comp cam and I have some ticking as well.
 
I Have a comp 295 hl in a bb with their lifters, as per the paperwork set @ .030 preload. Between that and roller rockers it's a bit noisy. About 1/2 turn past zero. 2 turns am thinking would be close to bottomed out. Just never been real happy with it.
 
1.5 turns to 2 turns is indeed too much. 1/2 to 3/4 should do it. And finding true zero lash is a challenge. Best way is to do it with the intake off and looking carefully at the lifter pistons. They should just be barely still touching the piston retainers in the lifters when you get to zero lash. And of course, adjust them only when the lifter is on the heel of the cam.

More noise on the right side (passenger side) should not be an oil pressure issue; the main feed into the whole engine is via that lifter gallery. If it was noisy due to low oil pressure, then the left (driver's) side should be even noisier.

The HV pump will not run the pan dry any more than the standard one will, just at a lower RPM if if could do it at all. The oil flow will be limited by what will flow out of the engine's clearances, and pressure will be limited by the pumps relief spring. The Mopar pressure relief design is to just recirculate the oil within the pump, not push it out anywhere, so no more is drawn in that can go out via the clearances. The HV pump will simply reach the relief pressure at a lower RPM than the standard, and will tend to give higher pressures at low RPM operation than then the standard one, but the oil flow will be no greater. (At very high RPM's, when the oil out of the rod to journal side clearances is being flung out more quickly due to centrifugal force, there MIGHT be a quicker drop off in pressure for the std pump.)

"I have read a couple of articles regarding the fast rate cams, when running the lifter drops off the ramp so quickly that it causes clacking of the valves, clacking when they close." No doubt in my mind that this is true, but no so much at idle. Not all lifters are created equal.
 
too much spring pressure? 1.5 to 2 turns past zero is too much. maybe the noise is not the lifters? with a HV pump u do not have a volume problem, maybe u will when out at high rpm if u only have a 5 quart pan. with the pressure u have, u are not missing any oil plugs
 
The way the comp lifter acted while hand priming reminded me of a rhoads lifter , hard to pump up. Rhoads was not quite as loud, but didn't have shaft mount rollers on that engine either. Like to know cam the op is running.
 
Just throwing it out there, make sure rockers are not hitting baffles in side the valve cover or anything.
 
GeorgeH said:
I Have a comp 295 hl in a bb with their lifters, as per the paperwork set @ .030 preload. Between that and roller rockers it's a bit noisy. About 1/2 turn past zero. 2 turns am thinking would be close to bottomed out. Just never been real happy with it.
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2 turns is about .070" (assuming adjuster screws are 28 tpi). Typically hydraulic lifters have at least 2X that much travel in them. So not exactly bottomed out. It will still run OK like that. Very high RPM power will suffer, however.
 
Comp's lifters are complete junk. I use Melling or Mahle-Clevite only. Comp's fast lobes for Mopars are inherently noisy and have embarrassed me on a couple of occasions. If you have to have a fast rate lobe then just move to a solid grind. Comp's old Magnum lobes are hard to beat--they make power and are easy on parts and quiet to boot. J.Rob
 
Some adjusters are 20 TPI and so 2 full turns would be .100" perload, and some random lifters don't seem to have any more than than amount of travel.
 
Thank's to everyone for their input, i will try setting them at 1/2 turn from zero , i generally use the 8 position procedure although the 4 position should be fine for hydraulics ,loosen the rocker until play can be felt, take up the slack then preload,I have checked retainer clearance ( edlebrock rpm heads) it is close but rockers show no signs of interference, all the galley plugs are in, pan is a deep m/p part and holds 7qts , i know this engine has some excessive rod side clearance at .025 +, new chinese eagle rods on a 273 crank, the lifters dropping off the ramps quickly sounds like a viable explanation, it is annoying when you have spent thousands building an engine
 
personally , 10 psi at 1,000 rpm on a new build would have me concerned. I know it should be enough to keep things from locking up , but even if you are using a 40 wt oil , its going to make noise after it warms up. it sounds like you have excessive clearances causing a drop in oil pressure. my fresh 440 starts at 85 cold and drops to 60 hot. my last 360 was at 10 psi per 1,000 rpm and made noise no matter what I did to it, including various oil pumps, 3 sets of lifters and adjustable rockers. rod and crank bearing clearances ended up being the cause of the low oil pressure up top.
 
10 psi hot might be the loose rod clearances. How did you return used lifters??? wow. Are they the Comp bleed down lifters, They do make 'more noise' than standard lifters per the ad as well as Rhoads. Just the design.
 
You do know high oil pressure is power robbing? ^^^^^ Lots of new builds have 10 psi at idle, most of them are real fast!.
 
Mopar Tim said:
You do know high oil pressure is power robbing? ^^^^^ Lots of new builds have 10 psi at idle, most of them are real fast!.
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yep , and most are intentionally built that way to go 1/4 mile at a time. personally , I am not comfortable running that low of a pressure hour after hour on the street , but that's just my opinion
 
I just boxed them up and sent them back to jegs for credit with their paperwork, they were the standard lifters listed for small blocks, why do they sell you oil thru lifters when mopars don't need them, generic? I would like to put a new crank in it to get rod side clearances to spec, however is it really necessary in a street rod engine ? and knowing how my luck flows it wound make no difference, would be satisfying to see better oil pressure at low rpms though
 
drawson said:
she only sees 10-15 psi at idle, 30-35 cruising , am running m/p lifters now
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Well, according to the "pros", that is adequate. BUT, my stock with cam. headers and intake 318 keeps better pressure than that, with 80,000 on the engine. 25 or so at idle and up around 50 when warmed up and cruising.
 
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