Non adjustable rockers. Ok what do you adjust?

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Dfnsmn34

Dfnsmn34

Margarita Mike
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Aloha!!

Ok this probably sounds stupid... but if you have a tapping noise coming from your valve train. AND you have non adjustable rockers. What can or do you adjust? I have a 340 that has some play on the #5 cylinder exhaust valve rocker. I didn't take any measurements...just was able to move the rocker slightly. The others were firm on the rods.

If I do have play on the push rod...do I replace the rod? lifter? rocker?
If I do replace a lifter..do you always change them all or just the one...
I'm not going to take this on myself but I want to understand the process.

Mahalo in advance for your inputs!!!

Valve 1357.jpg
 
hi,the way is to change pushrod. they vary as much as .080 in lengths. i've had to swap pushrods to get everything to fit before. the lifters are not the way to adjust. might try another rocker arm. they are not all same either.
 
briankaplan said:
Is this something that just started? Might be a lifter leaking
down. Could be more that swapping out a push rod.
Click to expand...

I bought it in December. And noticed it shortly after...I think it was there before I bought...but not sure... The previous owner said there was 5k on the rebuild.

I have a feeling it will be more than an easy fix though...:sad9:
 
Could buy a set of 273 adjustables/pushrods for under $100 and be done with it as well.

Longer pushrods is the solution for your current issue, provided you aren't losing a cam lobe.
 
crackedback said:
Could buy a set of 273 adjustables/pushrods for under $100 and be done with it as well.

Longer pushrods is the solution for your current issue, provided you aren't losing a cam lobe.
Click to expand...

The cam lobe is exactly what I am afraid of....:pain10:

I'll look into the 273. Mahalo!!!:cheers:
 
if you get the adjustable 273 type you will also have to get
the aftermarket pushrods for mechanical rockers/hydralic lifters combo.
i don't believe the 273 pushrods will work, (too long?). more expense...

it is possible to remove the lifter through the head but you must have some
patience. looking at the bottom of the suspect lifter(s) will tell you
if there is a lobe problem..at 5000 miles since rebuild there shouldn't
be any "adjustment" problems with stock rocker assemblies.
 
It's really hard to tell from the picture, but are you sure those rocker arms are on the shaft correctly and centered on the stems?
 
I was actually talking about being centered on the valve stems on the other side of the rocker arm. You never know what a previous owner has done, like putting a "left" where a "right" is supposed to go.

Looks like your getting oil.
 
340 Dart said:
I was actually talking about being centered on the valve stems on the other side of the rocker arm. You never know what a previous owner has done, like putting a "left" where a "right" is supposed to go.

Looks like your getting oil.
Click to expand...


OIL is GOOOOOD!:happy10:

I looked at another picture and they all say LH and RH per cylinders 1,3,5,7. So that looks ok...:cheers:

Mahalo!

close-up valves 3-5-7 small.JPG
 
I have my 340 apart right now for problem with #5 exhaust

Bent the push rod.

Comp cam tech said the cam looks like it has 100,000 miles, actually has 3,000.

Pulling it down, putting in solid lifters & cam

The new oils have been found to damage flat tappet cams. I contacted a buddy that works for Valvoline for his recomendation and he contacted the engineers and they said to run VR1 oil.

Before changing much in the engine it might be helpful to measure the travel on the cam to see if it is worn out

I talked to a guy this week who has a very cool 61 Ranch wagon he has been working on for the past few years. Rebuilt 390 with 30 miles on it. Had to change the cam in it, LOBES WORN OFF

WE NEED THE ADDITIVES BACK IN THE OILS FOR OUR OLDER ENGINES

It has something to do with the time the engine sits also. I have been told it is a dry start if the engine sits alot without the additives.

Hope you find your problem

Send me an email if you want any info on my 340

[email protected]

I should have bought a crate motor, less money, warranty and would not have had it out of the car twice in 3,000 miles since built
 
273 push rods will not work with your rocker arms,,they have a cup at the top for the adjuster on the 273 adjustable rocker arms,,im guessing you gto dirt in that lifter or it is leaking down, does it tap more at start up,,and then quite down a little ? or all the time ? could be a lobe wearing as mentioned,, its a giant problem right now in our hobby,, due to the modern oils, some engine shops wont even build you a motor unless you go with a roller cam,,
maybe spring height on that cylinder isnt correct,,
 
WildCat said:
I have my 340 apart right now for problem with #5 exhaust

Bent the push rod.

Comp cam tech said the cam looks like it has 100,000 miles, actually has 3,000.

Pulling it down, putting in solid lifters & cam

The new oils have been found to damage flat tappet cams. I contacted a buddy that works for Valvoline for his recomendation and he contacted the engineers and they said to run VR1 oil.

Before changing much in the engine it might be helpful to measure the travel on the cam to see if it is worn out

I talked to a guy this week who has a very cool 61 Ranch wagon he has been working on for the past few years. Rebuilt 390 with 30 miles on it. Had to change the cam in it, LOBES WORN OFF

WE NEED THE ADDITIVES BACK IN THE OILS FOR OUR OLDER ENGINES

It has something to do with the time the engine sits also. I have been told it is a dry start if the engine sits alot without the additives.

Hope you find your problem

Send me an email if you want any info on my 340

[email protected]

I should have bought a crate motor, less money, warranty and would not have had it out of the car twice in 3,000 miles since built
Click to expand...

Comp has been having problems with their cams,the gentleman that built my stroker had a problem with a comp cam in a hemi recently,it kept eating the cam after a few miles,finally got one that was good,and running fine for awhile now...As for the crate motor if it last 3000 miles your lucky!!!
 
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