383 A833 in '68 Barra conv. . Seems to be engaging just an inch off floor where it had been more like a couple inches pedal travel when installed last summer. Maybe 2-300 hundred miles on it I guess. Borg - Beck type. What 's a good rule of thumb on this ? thanks for any comments.
normal to need clutch adj after a few months on new one?
- Thread starter Dave NEO
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Yep. I adjusted mine a few times the first summer it was in and haven't touched it for a couple years now.
Lengthen
Take the inspection cover off and adjust the air gap between the pressure plate fingers and the throw out bearing. About 1/8" to 3/16" works well. Cycle the pedal a few times and recheck.
I adjusted my clutch just by pedal free play. The throw out bearing was constantly riding on the pressure plate fingers and the bearing failed and ruined the pressure plate. When you adjust the linkage you either close or open the gap between the bearing and the fingers. There should be a gap but not too much. Pedal free play will be correct regardless.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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1 inch is factory spec. for a DD.
You can run as much or as little as you like; between the pedal on the floor and grinding into reverse would be too much; and zero freeplay with the TOB on the fingers would be not enough. One inch is a good starting point. Depending on your starter gear and driving style, you may have to adjust it once or twice in the first summer. The following summer, you can set the freeplay a lil shorter.
Like Toolman says; zero burns out the bearing, so don't go there; otherwise anything goes, but the more you have, the more often you will likely want to adjust it. Just make sure you keep it off the fingers; it ain't like setting the float level where a millimeter is as good as a mile.
You can run as much or as little as you like; between the pedal on the floor and grinding into reverse would be too much; and zero freeplay with the TOB on the fingers would be not enough. One inch is a good starting point. Depending on your starter gear and driving style, you may have to adjust it once or twice in the first summer. The following summer, you can set the freeplay a lil shorter.
Like Toolman says; zero burns out the bearing, so don't go there; otherwise anything goes, but the more you have, the more often you will likely want to adjust it. Just make sure you keep it off the fingers; it ain't like setting the float level where a millimeter is as good as a mile.
sounds good thnx - appreciate your patience -just to clarify for less experienced me: Pedal freeplay is now about an inch (an inch pedal movement before it starts to disengage clutch) - the clutch does not disengage completely until I'm about an inch off the floor which seems to close to floor for my liking. If I understand you guys correctly, that off-the- floor distance is what I can adjust with the clutch fork rod adjustment? And if I understand this, in the process I might end up with some change in the pedal freeplay also so I should make sure it is enough.
I never worry about "where" it engages in the travel. All I do is adjust the free travel over time and keep on clutchin.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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That about sums it up.
cool - yes just got in from messing with it - tried a few different adjustments, found I was right first time basically lengthening rod as was suggested and taking out some of the play at the washer/fork end - seems to like a generous 1/8 vs. 3/16 or a 1/4 which started getting me some grinding in shift to reverse or pedal not coming up easily. .. Nice night for a little run, shifted very good.
From what you described a inch is too much. The play in each linkage piece added together will give you the total free play. My comments were to steer you away from adjusting your free play and thinking the clutch will be adjusted properly. Your inch doesn't sound right to me. It sounds like it is releasing too close to the floor. You may grind gears especially in reverse. Like AJ said, adjust it however you want as long as it's not too tight and the throw out bearing is running on the fingers.
694spd
Well-Known Member
When the clutch pedal is all the way up there should be a gap between the TO bearing and the clutch fingers. Being in gear or neutral has nothing to do with it.
694spd
Well-Known Member
Probably the easiest way your to check your TO bearing to clutch finger gap is to do it the way the factory service manual says to. Just pull rearward on the end of the clutch fork then release it. This amount of "free play" or travel should be 5/32" when measured at the end of the clutch fork. If it's not correct then adjust your linkage nut on the fork rod. This free play will give you a proper TO bearing to clutch finger gap.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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A lot of that linkage slop is designed into the system for ease of installation. The way to get rid of it is with the factory anti-rattle spring, that sucks the fork into a parked position, pulling the TOB off the fingers. If you don't have that spring or if it is incorrectly installed, then I suspect you would get into your kind of situation. At proper freeplay adjustment and with the correct pedal ratio parts, you should not have to press more than half way, or so, to the floor from an after free-play start point.
What I mean is if you have 6 inches from the parked pedal to the floor, and 5 after the freeplay; then 2.5 to 3 inches more travel should get you enough clutch departure, and you would still be 2 to 2.5 inches from the floor. You only have to press the clutch down far enough to engage first gear with out clashing or having to wait more than 3 seconds for the synchro to do it's job. Reverse sometimes takes more pedal and or more time because the only thing slowing it down is the oil-bath.
The other gears usually are easier/faster to engage, usually with less departure, often because the slowing engine is dragging the gears down with it. I guess not so if you flat-foot shift,lol.
What I mean is if you have 6 inches from the parked pedal to the floor, and 5 after the freeplay; then 2.5 to 3 inches more travel should get you enough clutch departure, and you would still be 2 to 2.5 inches from the floor. You only have to press the clutch down far enough to engage first gear with out clashing or having to wait more than 3 seconds for the synchro to do it's job. Reverse sometimes takes more pedal and or more time because the only thing slowing it down is the oil-bath.
The other gears usually are easier/faster to engage, usually with less departure, often because the slowing engine is dragging the gears down with it. I guess not so if you flat-foot shift,lol.
Agree. Just like brakes, new clutch will be wore in then adjust
sounds ideal - mine's not quite like that, but it's OK. Got it about good as I can w/o going to far one way or the other.. Engages/disengages about 1 1/2 " off floor. Easily shifts into reverse even after a rev w/o any grind, and there's no sensation of bearing contact until pedal is depressed a good 1" to 1 1/2" at which point you can actually feel it slightly in pedal. All the parts are new with the clutch - T.O., Z bar, fork return spring, rest of linkage. Flywheel was resurfaced - it could be getting worn- no idea of mileage on it. American stick cars I've owned have all had clutches that engaged/disengaged with pedal farther off floor.
694spd
Well-Known Member
Yes, and as a clutch wears over time. The fingers will move closer to the TO bearing reducing the gap. To regain the proper TO bearing to clutch finger clearance, you will need to shorten the adjustment of the fork rod by turning the nut clockwise when looking from the rear.
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