not a mopar question, 09 chev uplander

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Snake

Snake

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Has anyone owned or work on the 09 Uplander 3.0, my problem and what i have read they all have it.at idle it blows cold air when cruising below 1600 rpms its cold once i get past 1700 rpm hot no problems with the cooling system it reaches full temp, the coolant level is spot on.can anyone help.the rad shop says its a block in the heater core, but when i go on line some have tried that ,it help for a week or so but came back, there should be a recall but nothing.
 
Snake said:
Has anyone owned or work on the 09 Uplander 3.0, my problem and what i have read they all have it.at idle it blows cold air when cruising below 1600 rpms its cold once i get past 1700 rpm hot no problems with the cooling system it reaches full temp, the coolant level is spot on.can anyone help.the rad shop says its a block in the heater core, but when i go on line some have tried that ,it help for a week or so but came back, there should be a recall but nothing.
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Definitely a heater core just like the 90's dodge rams.
 
so the 90's rams had that problem, well the rad shop said adding some cleaner and flush should help ,or is a new core the way to go .
 
There is another possibility.

I had a 92 Chevy lumina. There was a vacuume redo our on the car and the plastic tube that ran to it ran under the battery tray. For some reason 3 times in the 10 years I drove it the hose wore through and developed a leak. That caused the vacuume operated heater controls to not work correctly.

You might have a similar issue. The increased RPM changing the vacuume signal just enough to open a valve or move a mixing door.
 
Dana67Dart said:
There is another possibility.

I had a 92 Chevy lumina. There was a vacuume redo our on the car and the plastic tube that ran to it ran under the battery tray. For some reason 3 times in the 10 years I drove it the hose wore through and developed a leak. That caused the vacuume operated heater controls to not work correctly.

You might have a similar issue. The increased RPM changing the vacuume signal just enough to open a valve or move a mixing door.
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well i have just read about that but trying to find that hoses going to be hard when i dont know wear too look.its a tight engine bay not to menchen it - 14 out.
 
Snake said:
well i have just read about that but trying to find that hoses going to be hard when i dont know wear too look.its a tight engine bay not to menchen it - 14 out
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Do you have a factory service manual or even a Chilton's

I took the controlls apart in the dash that's how I discovered little to no vacuume. Then it was trace out the CRAPPY plastic lines
 
Take the heater core feeds off and blow compressed air through them. I did this to my 01 silverado work truck and it blasted the black engine cover with a vanilla milkshake substance that is still on it. It heated better after than clearing. Sounds like maybe a vacuum blend door issue but I would think electrical on that later year.. Does your vents operate after you turn your car off? They should hold vacuum for about 10 seconds.
 
no i don't i for got about there was 1 time i met another 09 uplander gent in summer, i ask him about you have no heat he lhao and said at 1 time , he took it to a shop and had them run a new hose from the thermostat housing to the lower heater core and bang he now has heat.worth a try.less bends he said.if it was summer i would do this but its freezing cold out.
 
No idea but thinking if they all have that problem
1- Maybe trapped air pocket.
2- Vacuum leak.
3- Add a Vacuum canister in line with actuator hose may help.
4- Sticky actuator door on the way out.
 
Kendog 170 said:
My son's 3.4 2005 Impala took some time to get air out of his system after WP job
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Did it have the brass bleed screws on the top of 2 cooling system parts?

I used to fill cooling system thru a funnel on a heater hose, once coolant started to come out of where the hose attached I plugged that fitting and kept filling till fluid came out of the next lower opening, (rad cap) and so on. Be er had any air trapped that way the bleachers were very helpful.
 
what i found out there water pump is week flow that is ,by doing the by pass it get hot water once it get warm than hot.
 
its my bad for sure not getting it fix it has bean this way for years. Cindy my wife is blind in the left eye, and now her right eye has had a retna detach, and the hospital is fifty miles away she get surgery tomorrow and we have to do flowell up appointments for the next 6 weeks so is cold until i get the rps up to 1700 then she blows lots of heat.i hope they can fix her if not total blind at 57 years old.thanks for the help.
 
I like the low-vacuum signal idea; is the check-engine light on? If yes, then you will have to scan the computer, and see what's going on. If no the light is NOT on, then
Here is another possibility.
Perhaps the thermostat is no longer functioning properly. This is where I'd start. You can check with an Infra-red heat tester, the temp of the engine, up near the thermostat housing, hunting around for the hottest part. At this time of the year, you should get readings close to 200/210 just before the fans kick in. Btw at least one of those fans should be cycling fairly regularly.
Also; under the hood; go find the hoses that pass water into the heater core. The delivery hose should be 20 to 30 degrees hotter than the return hose. You can easily feel the difference and one of those hoses should be nearly as hot as the top of the rad. If at the firewall they are stacked vertically, then the hotter hose should be the lower one.

FYI
If the heater control is on defrost or in any position that blows on the windshield, this engages the A/C system. This it to remove moisture from the interior, so it doesn't condense on the cold glass.
But any time that the A/C is engaged, this automatically turns on ONE of the two electric fans. With the electric fan running it will probably overcool the engine, which should close the thermostat. If the stat fails to close, the engine may not come up to temp.
 
I used to have a 2004 minivan that would not heat well at all. turns out it was 2 quarts low on antifreeze! After that she was toasty.
 
Lots of great ideas here. But if you use compressed air regulate it down to about 15 psi. Best is to reverse flush it with a garden hose. But it really sounds like low coolant level or air. rev it up to 1500-2000 and watch the bottle does it go down? If so you're low. But it really sounds like air in the system. If possible, remove the outlet hose and burb it. If the heater core is higher than the radiator it can be difficult.
 
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