Dartman318
Member
1971 dart dying and losing voltage when I hit the brakes intermittently. Some one told me that this could be because my starter solenoid is not properly grounded. Anyone? Thanks in advance.
not charging properly
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
That explanation doesn't make sense on first pass. Perhaps an experience with a Ford. Mopar solenoids are integral to the starter. If the starter's case wasn't grounded well, the engine wouldn't turn over.
I doubt a wire is grounding, since that would likely blow a fuse. Best guess is that you have a loose connection in either the bulkhead connector or ignition switch. Try wiggling the wires around both, while monitoring voltage with a cigarette lighter voltmeter.
I doubt a wire is grounding, since that would likely blow a fuse. Best guess is that you have a loose connection in either the bulkhead connector or ignition switch. Try wiggling the wires around both, while monitoring voltage with a cigarette lighter voltmeter.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Need more detail on the symptoms, please:
What do you mean by 'losing voltage'? What are the actual indications of this loss of voltage? Does the car want to stop running when this happens? Or is it something else? Do you have a voltmeter installed or are you using a multimeter to see this?
What do you mean by 'losing voltage'? What are the actual indications of this loss of voltage? Does the car want to stop running when this happens? Or is it something else? Do you have a voltmeter installed or are you using a multimeter to see this?
Dartman318
Member
No volt meter amp meter will go all the way to discharge. Some times the car will die and crank but seems like it is not firing. As for a bulk head po removed it and hard wired everything.
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Does it do the same when the hazzard flasher is engaged? If yes then take the rear bulbs out and retest using the brake stabbing technique.What this test is doing is differentiating between an electrical problem and a mechanical problem.If the problem persists with the bulbs out, it almost certainly is not related to the brake circuit. The proof would be to then disconnect the brake switch itself and or removing the brake fuse. I suppose you could start with removing the fuse first.
-Anyways... Suppose with the entire brake circuit disabled and the problem persisting, then I would suspect it has something to do with the flexing of the firewall, or the pedal mechanism snagging a supply wire. Since the engine cranks when the ignition is down, I would suspect the problem is after the ignition switch.That would be the blue wire.And as others have said, its time for the tug test. I usually pull the drivers seat out, so I can relax while messing around under the dash. Good hunting.
-Anyways... Suppose with the entire brake circuit disabled and the problem persisting, then I would suspect it has something to do with the flexing of the firewall, or the pedal mechanism snagging a supply wire. Since the engine cranks when the ignition is down, I would suspect the problem is after the ignition switch.That would be the blue wire.And as others have said, its time for the tug test. I usually pull the drivers seat out, so I can relax while messing around under the dash. Good hunting.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
OK, OP, thanks. When the car dies and only cranks, is the hard discharge seen on the ammeter at that time too?
If this problem is always associated with the brake pedal being pushed, then my first thoughts are similar to those above: I would first suspect that some part of the harness has chafed against the harness and is shorting or is being pinched by the pedal and/or rod. I would crawl under the dash and look very carefully at the harness all over in the area around the steering column, brake pedal and rod, etc.
Unfortunately, if the PO did other wiring mods to the charging circuit at the time that he wired past the bulkhead connector, then this is may be hard to diagnose over the internet. The ammeter going to D normally shows a hard discharge of the battery. Moving the point where the alternator's large output wire connects to the rest of the car can change how the ammeter behaves and make its indications non-standard, btu enve with most charging system mods, it shows a short or near short somewhere in the dash area.
You need to not mess around and find this because if it is a short like it sounds, it can cause a fire. I would not leave the battery connected while the car is sitting.
If this problem is always associated with the brake pedal being pushed, then my first thoughts are similar to those above: I would first suspect that some part of the harness has chafed against the harness and is shorting or is being pinched by the pedal and/or rod. I would crawl under the dash and look very carefully at the harness all over in the area around the steering column, brake pedal and rod, etc.
Unfortunately, if the PO did other wiring mods to the charging circuit at the time that he wired past the bulkhead connector, then this is may be hard to diagnose over the internet. The ammeter going to D normally shows a hard discharge of the battery. Moving the point where the alternator's large output wire connects to the rest of the car can change how the ammeter behaves and make its indications non-standard, btu enve with most charging system mods, it shows a short or near short somewhere in the dash area.
You need to not mess around and find this because if it is a short like it sounds, it can cause a fire. I would not leave the battery connected while the car is sitting.
Dartman318
Member
Thanks for the suggestions I am waiting for the next day off to work on I do not leave the battery hooked up when the vehicle is parked. I'm just left scratching my head at the end of the day I hate electrical issues and yes the ammeter does show a hard discharge when cranking but not firing.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Ok, well that would make sense for a partial short under the dash, perhaps on the output side of the ignition switch if it is not there all the time. The ammeter shows the short current but it sounds like not enough to blow the fusible link. Or the PO removed the fusible link and you have no emergency fusing from the battery! OR the PO ran the current the starter solenoid from the ignition switch and took out the starter relay.....! With all the rewiring, we have no way to know, unless the PO left you a diagram.
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