(not mine) but hard to find and only a few left

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Nope, bought one for myself and one for a Canadian friend and will save him on shipping....BTW...why the hell do you care???

Oh, that's right, for some reason you have been following my every post lately......that's scary.

Well, yall were givin me the business for a while. I thought I'd return the favor. You know what they say about the heat and the kitchen and all that? You and your little band have hurt your share of feelins around here too. Maybe you should think about that too. It's a two way street, bud.
 
I don't know why anyone here would not like RRR. He is a good guy and cares about giving all of us good/useable advice.:prayer:

I thank you for your advice RRR, but on this one, I bought two of the clips. I figure that my couplers have lasted 40 plus years without them, so adding the clips will ensure enough life in them to get beyond my own. Plus, I want my cars to be factory in every way possible.
 
Thanks. I just find the factory design horrible. There are so many parts involved when a simple U joint would have done the trick. I have had them knock, squeak, rattle and make all kinds of noises and even had the pin rust in two ad break and fail the coupler completely. As in steering wheel spinning and wheels doing nothing. I will never recommend a part that's had a failure like that. Regardless of my delivery, I was trying to help.
 
I won't spend all night on the Summit site, but this is the first reasonable one I came to. They are available cheaper else where.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-546250/overview/

Sorry I gave my message so harshly. I have a LOT of experience in this area and have seen the factory style couplers fail on several occasions. I would never use another one or recommend one. Losing steering is sorta like an airplane wing fallin off. Nothin good will come of it.But I will do as yall ask and stay out of it from now on.[/ QUOTE]

Another RRR FAIL.. But I will do as yall ask and stay out of it from now on.
 
I did something similar for a Canadian member myself once.

Yes Rob believe me I remember that and appreciate that, BUT that doesnt make it a trump card to be ignorant.
There was a thread a while back where I stated that I appreciate people with LESS knowledge that treat people nice. You replied that you agreed....practice what you preach. This by far is not the 1st thread....when people get pushed expect it back.

As for the couplers I have never had one fail. Im not saying it cant/wont happen but for Dads 67 under the hood looks pretty nice and I hate the way that "cover" flops around. This clip will help. And for $20 how could you go wrong?
 
Yes Rob believe me I remember that and appreciate that, BUT that doesnt make it a trump card to be ignorant.
There was a thread a while back where I stated that I appreciate people with LESS knowledge that treat people nice. You replied that you agreed....practice what you preach. This by far is not the 1st thread....when people get pushed expect it back.

As for the couplers I have never had one fail. Im not saying it cant/wont happen but for Dads 67 under the hood looks pretty nice and I hate the way that "cover" flops around. This clip will help. And for $20 how could you go wrong?

You caint go wrong I recon. I do kinda like the clamp it has. That whole thing though is a slap piss poor design off the bat. Perhaps the dead worst designed part on a MoPar altogether.

I don't expect people not to push back. I also don't expect to get pushed back by a whole little clique, either. So perhaps we can bury the hatchet and stop the bullshit. I am all for it and I just made the first move. Are you gonna be a big man and accept it or not? It's up to you, now bud.
 
I just inquired about purchasing one of these. But there's no way in hell I'm going to pay $22.95 US. for shipping something that small.
 
I just inquired about purchasing one of these. But there's no way in hell I'm going to pay $22.95 US. for shipping something that small.

Got someplace on the south side of the border it could be mailed to and you go to pickup? Shipping in the USA is only $5.95 - at least it was when I purchased mine just a couple of minutes ago for shipment to SoCal.
 
I just inquired about purchasing one of these. But there's no way in hell I'm going to pay $22.95 US. for shipping something that small.

Sent you a pm ... wife is in florida and having her bring them back ...let me know
 
I just inquired about purchasing one of these. But there's no way in hell I'm going to pay $22.95 US. for shipping something that small.

How does flat rate shippin work from here to there? He can ship it to me and I'll send it if it will save you some dough. Just a thought.
 
I think those clips look like ****. Besides that, the job of getting those little tabs in place where they should be, Just takes some patience and an array of tools from your box. I've rebuilt several of them without issue. And don't have that nasty *** lookin **** hanging off the steering shaft.
 
I learned something new today. I have seen hundreds, if not over a thousand mopars in my life. I've never, ever seen or heard of that little clip. Also never had a failure, but have sat and sworn at the tabs on the couplers...lol. Cool deal. I'm sure if he's got "all the money" tied up in R&D and production he's got hundreds or thousands of them in stock. Don't know if I'll ever buy one, as I can get the factory stuff to work just fine provided it's not destroyed, but it is a cool little dealio.
 
I bought 2 of them. They are made well and I'm happy with the quality. IF you want or need one...buy it. If you don't...then don't.
 
Why in the hell would you waste money on that POS when you can put a borgeson U joint in it?

The factory coupler, despite your opinion, is a well designed part, with no inherent problems. A u joint has no means for dealing with shaft "plunge" and as such will put pressure onto the upper bearing in the steering column. No need to redesign the wheel as they say. The "trick" to reclamping the factory dust shield is to crimp each ear one at a time. Very easy to do, but very hard in the car!
 
Because the u joint solves Non-issue and does not accommodate chassis flex.

That's what a slip joint is for. Besides, it's not like these cars have a body mounted on a frame. Not much chassis flex goin on.
 
The factory coupler, despite your opinion, is a well designed part, with no inherent problems. A u joint has no means for dealing with shaft "plunge" and as such will put pressure onto the upper bearing in the steering column. No need to redesign the wheel as they say. The "trick" to reclamping the factory dust shield is to crimp each ear one at a time. Very easy to do, but very hard in the car!

I guess if you say so. My experience has been different.
 
That's what a slip joint is for. Besides, it's not like these cars have a body mounted on a frame. Not much chassis flex goin on.

C'mon Rusty. No chassis flex? Is that why everyone runs subframe connectors? Why high horsepower cars break the rear window? Why you can't bondo the roof/quarter joint without the filler popping out?

Factory stock these cars are flexy flyers. All you have to do is put the front end up on jackstands and look at the door gaps. If you really want to see something, just put a jack under one of the front framerails near the front bumper bracket and jack up the car until that tire is off the ground. Then take a look at the door gaps, or ask yourself why the other front tire is still on the ground. A little is balance, the rest is flex.

I like the Borgeson style u-joints, even installed one on my Duster. But I also added a slip joint, and did more than a little cutting and welding on the stock steering shaft to make it all work. That clip seems a little pricey for what it is, but if you want things to look even remotely stock I totally see how it would be useful.

This is what I did to mount a Boregeson vibration damping U-joint in my Duster. Probably overkill, but it addresses all of the issues, including any plunge in the system. And yes, that coupler is smaller in diameter than the stock one, and it clears my Doug's headers just fine.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=228107

IMG_1167_zps1597d539.jpg
 
Did you see me say "no" chassis flex? Come on yer damn self.

Nice fix, btw. Exactly what I am talkin about.
 
I guess I don't see what problem that solves. Hmmm....
 
I guess I don't see what problem that solves. Hmmm....

The clip? It keeps the seal from falling off the coupler. If you've never had the seal come off all I can say is you must be a lot better at getting those tabs bent and secured than I am or somehow got a special one from the factory.

The u-joint? The stock couplers wear out, and have a certain amount of play in them anyway. The pins have to be pressed in, so rebuilding the coupler pretty much means pulling the entire steering column. And if there's any wear or damage at the pin there's additional play. And then of course there's just the fact that the seals always fall off, are a pain to reinstall, and the coupler wears out if the seal isn't in place. The U-joint takes care of all of that. New joint so less play in the system, the one I used has a DD end so no pin tolerances to worry about, and no complete failure if the pin breaks. Easy to replace in the future if any wear does develop, the U-joint can be replaced in the car with both the steering column and steering box in place. And in my case there should be enough movement in the telescoping section to switch back and forth between power and manual steering without adding an adaptor or changing steering shafts. Just buy a new U-joint and swap it in.
 
Do you have any pics of your set up before you put the boot on? I would like to see a pic of that set up. Stock box? Did you cut the shaft to use that?
 
Do you have any pics of your set up before you put the boot on? I would like to see a pic of that set up. Stock box? Did you cut the shaft to use that?

It came with the boot on it, but I could probably slide the boot down and get a picture or two in the car. Nothing fancy, it's just a telescoping DD steering shaft. I did cut the steering shaft to use it, I spliced it into a stock power steering shaft. It's hooked up to a Flaming River 16:1 manual box.
 
I didn't take a pic yet but they work real nice. I'm glad I bought a few
 
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