not much throttle

-
I remember when I changed mine from 2bbl to 4bbl, I had trouble with the cable, too. I just kind of coiled the cable slightly and I think I heated up and bent the bracket to get everything to line up well enough to work. You may have to get the proper bracket, or cut and weld or bend yours to get it to work for you. Like I said before, it might help your geometry to raise the carb. A TQ kit comes with a 1/4" or so spacer for factory apps.
 
rustycowll69 said:
I remember when I changed mine from 2bbl to 4bbl, I had trouble with the cable, too. I just kind of coiled the cable slightly and I think I heated up and bent the bracket to get everything to line up well enough to work. You may have to get the proper bracket, or cut and weld or bend yours to get it to work for you. Like I said before, it might help your geometry to raise the carb. A TQ kit comes with a 1/4" or so spacer for factory apps.
Click to expand...
I installed it this morning
 
Hold on, hold on! that plastic sheathing belongs on there.
That throttle arm is not at closed idle but nearly wide open! by the looks of it.

Start over.
Disconnect the cable from the carb.
Disconnect the stinking choke, and let the blade fall open.
Kick the carb down off the fast idle cam and back to curb idle.
Make sure it stays there! Put the return spring on there, to keep it at curb idle.
Now pull the cable towards the rad, and have someone look to see that the gaspedal is way up high where it is supposed to be.
Then, measure the distance from the end of the cable to the pin where it is suppose to slip onto. That is the distance that the 4 bbl bracket moves the cable anchor ahead.
Go buy a 4bbl bracket!

Understand this;
with the 2bbl bracket, you can adjust the cable slack to get the 4bbls to WOT,
Or you can adjust the cable to get the curb idle, by clamping the cable on the black plastic sheath.
But you cannot get it to do both, with the cable anchored on the ferrule where it is supposed to be!
And the angle is all wrong.
Now, if you follow my plan above, then you will see where the 4bbl anchor needs to be, and if you cut that bracket apart then you can fabricate what you need and weld it back up to properly work.
Then you get to also modify the kickdown/throttle-pressure rod to make it work like the factory intended it too!, Cuz if you don't, you will likely be buying a new tranny in less than 100 miles! Perhaps as few as 50, or even 20 if you are a wild and crazy guy!
.

Now getting back to that black plastic sheathing; DO NOT cut it off.
It guides that hollow tube thingy over the metal ferrule. If you cut it off the guide is gone and then the tube hits the ferrule and then the carb opens no further. If you force it to jump over you may bend stuff, so don't do it!
The correct 4bbl bracket will also point the cable properly at the throttle pivot pin so it's not all kinked up like in your picture; post #16.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top