Not too happy with my fans.....

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The newer electric fans with the curved blades move more are than the older straight pitch blades. I'm in Texas also, & temps at the strip can be brutal. I changed my old straight pitched blade fan to one of the newer curved blade fan & it did make a difference in cooling my car down on the return road & in between rounds. I'm not saying that this will solve the problem on a street car, I'm just speaking of my experience. If I had a street car, I would run a 7 blade factory fan with a thermostatic clutch, but that's just my opinion.
 
I have the rad from radiator sullly house they use dual 3000cfm fans. I have them kicking in at 190f with my thermostat opening at 180f. Have not seen 200f yet but it's been a mild summer here in Ohio. You. An add in a timed relay to keep the fan on for 30-60!seconds once you turn the motor off of need be.

If your rad is running at 200 then so is your tranny or higher.
 
I know how big a 5 horsepower 110/220vac single phase electric motor is, and also how flipping heavy it is.
I gotta wonder about a 12 volt DC one. Remind me again how many hp the oem Mopar 1970 electric starter was rated at. Wasn't it 1.8hp? and wasn't it about as heavy as a cylinder head,lol.Well I guess the actual motor part was only half a head's-worth. And it only turned about 400rpm under load, but it spins up up pretty good without. I wonder how big a fan that thing could power up? Hmmmmmmm
Lessee where can I fit that monster in. Oh I know; off to the side with a belt.... wait ......what? I think that's been done before,lol.
The question was posed, does the fan care what drives it? Answer is no. Now go hook that fractional hp electric motor to an all steel,hi-attack,7 blade fan, and take your car for a rip around town, and see if it can keep up,if it can even turn it,lol.

The electric fan works when there is enough time between hi-outputs for the rad to absorb the heat, and enough time for the mini motor to catch up. It works in drag-racing because the cooling system sees 12 or 13 seconds of massive heat going into a cold system,during which time ram air is doing most of the work, then has maybe 20/30 minutes between rounds to get rid of the heat. No problem right; it's just a time delay device.
But in traffic, this is a continuous input of heat, so it takes a continuous effort from the fan, and if she ain't up to it, well,then maybe you lose an engine when detonation sets in. Or you pull over and twiddle your thumbs for 20/30 minutes,circumstances permitting.
I'm not willing to suffer that kind of nonsense.
And there is just no good reason for performance street car to not have a mechanical belt-driven fan. Nor for a 430 or less hp car like mine, to have a monster rad in it. ( I have no experience with more hp). As soon as you have a proper functioning cooling system, any old rad that passes air, passes water, and still has the fins attached; will do.
And that's AJs opinion.
 
i love all this fan talk like every other part of every other cooling system is equivalent and just the fan matters :rolleyes:
 
Mine never did either!

Guess that’s why I went back to a costly original radiator and shroud and good old 7 blade original fan. Car runs cool and that makes me smile!

A couple HP gain no longer makes me smile!
 
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MrJLR said:
Sounds great - thanks!


Jeff
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Sorry on quality last picture is measured from left end of shroud to left side of fan motor is 9". 1st pic is from end fan to front support. after looking at pics here they do not look very helpful. Let me know what you need I will try again with more light.
 
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Haha I think it’s my Dr. you know-Dr Sausage fingers. He is on :rofl:his mobile and the buttons are close together.
 
sorry saw pic make sure air flow in is great. then rad is good (flowing) belts are running pump correct direction pump is good hi flow as to stock u still can run fans ck temp sender against actual temp. not hard . but a 6 opening in rad support to a v8 needs to b opened. all mopars 8 any body cool good 6 to8 some work needs 2 b cked. radiator 4 -1 -3 or 4 core . clean simple not Hi tech or $
 
lilfontleroy said:
Are you overheating? I like what 318 is saying above. I think go belt driven OEM type fan with a shroud for regular cooling and if you have to have electric fan(s) mount it in front of the radiator with a toggle switch so you can use it for cool down after the engine is off.
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set it up with a thermostat wired fused batt hot. Then it can cycle on and off when the engine is shut down as well as when you are driving. I have a flexalite black magic fan in my pickup for 20 years and over 100K miles on it. Has a thermostatic switch, kicks on when needed, has an A/C clutch override built in, and will cycle on after truck is shut off as well.
 
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