oh boy...head broke off torque conveter bolt

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tarvin890

tarvin890
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The fun just won't end on my nitemare purchase... Took to friends shop to have the new 727 looked at for leak

Just a loose line.... Then checking the converter bolts. One was put in bad so they went to tighten and the head Broke
off one... Trans has to come out? Light car on fire and run?

...
 
Oh Man .... It the Dart from Hates !! Soon you'll have the car completely redone YOURSELF.
 
If you can't get it out easily, then you will have to pull the trans... #-o

Don't light the car on fire, just bang your head on the wall... :banghead:
 
Man, im sorry! come on over and we can knock it out in a weekend! MT
 
Lol. Well the good thing is what Mitch said when I'm done fiending all the poop the PO did. And fixing it...it will be a nice safe car. Does it need to be towed home because that bolt is gone or ok to limp 3 miles?
 
Its up to you, will probably be ok, but its your gamble. MT

Agreed. I had a flex plate snap in two (because I forgo the dowel pins from motor to trans) Doh!:banghead:

Anyway, I limped that sucker home 10 miles pulled trans installed dowel pins new flexplate and it was golden.
 
Lol. Well the good thing is what Mitch said when I'm done fiending all the poop the PO did. And fixing it...it will be a nice safe car. Does it need to be towed home because that bolt is gone or ok to limp 3 miles?

I think you could drive it with no issue. A friend of mine who is also a member here, bought a duster one time that only had 3 convertor bolts in it, cause the 4th lug on the convertor was never threaded from the factory, it ran that way for 30+ years. Granted, it was a low HP motor, but still
 
There are several options open to you.

1. Replace the torque converter.

2. Remove the bolt from the converter.
..........a. Use an Ease Out.
..........b. Use a LH threaded drill bit. (Big box hardware store won't have them.)
..........c. Use a Dremel tool with cut-off wheel, cut X in top, try cross-tip bit for ratchet or screwdriver.
..........d. Weld a bar 10-12 inches long at a 90º angle to the bolt threads.
..........e. Cut bolt off, flush with torque inverter and re-tap hole.

The deal with the Ease Out (LH threads) or the LH drill bits (set drill to run counter-clockwise) is that when either encounter more resistance than the broken bolt has created, the bolt will back out. In the case of the LH drill bits, it will even climb up the bit.
 
I'm super good at pulling trans. I had a Cuda in HS and beat the crap out of 727s went through 3 in 6 months. Got good at doing them...moved a lot easier when I was 17 though lol. Yes Tim something else. If I pull the trans I may take the oppertunity to pull the headers and have jet coated
 
There are several options open to you.

1. Replace the torque converter.

2. Remove the bolt from the converter.
..........a. Use an Ease Out.
..........b. Use a LH threaded drill bit. (Big box hardware store won't have them.)
..........c. Use a Dremel tool with cut-off wheel, cut X in top, try cross-tip bit for ratchet or screwdriver.
..........d. Weld a bar 10-12 inches long at a 90º angle to the bolt threads.
..........e. Cut bolt off, flush with torque inverter and re-tap hole.

The deal with the Ease Out (LH threads) or the LH drill bits (set drill to run counter-clockwise) is that when either encounter more resistance than the broken bolt has created, the bolt will back out. In the case of the LH drill bits, it will even climb up the bit.


yes i have watched i video on the left thread drill bit.... i like them best... i will have to get it home and see... Tim you will like this i am sure... the trans rubber mount was missing 2 bolts.... par for the course? lol i might as well tear this car bottom and out start ording parts... so much for part time work... back to full time... well being a local truck driver i work 36-40 hours a week... thats part time... lol
 
I think you could drive it with no issue. A friend of mine who is also a member here, bought a duster one time that only had 3 convertor bolts in it, cause the 4th lug on the convertor was never threaded from the factory, it ran that way for 30+ years. Granted, it was a low HP motor, but still

nice... well this one has basically been on three tight ones... trans shop didnt even want to start it the just pushed it out o the shop....
 
The deal with the Ease Out (LH threads) or the LH drill bits (set drill to run counter-clockwise) is that when either encounter more resistance than the broken bolt has created, the bolt will back out. In the case of the LH drill bits, it will even climb up the bit.

I learned my lesson about Easy-Outs a long time ago (two lies in one; they are not easy and it won't come out). What happens is that the very hard and brittle easy-out snaps off in the hole and then you're screwed (pun intended).

Someday I want to get a set of left-hand drills, I think that's the way to go (short of welding a nut onto the stump).
 
I learned my lesson about Easy-Outs a long time ago (two lies in one; they are not easy and it won't come out). What happens is that the very hard and brittle easy-out snaps off in the hole and then you're screwed (pun intended).

Someday I want to get a set of left-hand drills, I think that's the way to go (short of welding a nut onto the stump).

This is true, but in his case it would probably work. A couple of broken easy outs way back and now I just refuse to break bolts.
 
I would still be very wary of using an easy-out... I have found the hard way that if the torque applied was sufficient to twist the bolt head off, the easy-out will also snap.

Love the "refuse to break bolts"... let me know how that's working out :D
 
I would still be very wary of using an easy-out... I have found the hard way that if the torque applied was sufficient to twist the bolt head off, the easy-out will also snap.

Love the "refuse to break bolts"... let me know how that's working out :D

Now everyone breaks them for me. And just for fun, I wish my problems were this easy. Somewhere I lost an entire set of 1966 383 pistons and rods. Try starting your car with that problem.
 
That would be weird, to try and start the car and have the crank just spin 'round with no compression, because someone removed the pistons and rods secretly... :D
 
That would be weird, to try and start the car and have the crank just spin 'round with no compression, because someone removed the pistons and rods secretly... :D

Call your mechanic" really it just started doing it this morning!":burnout:MT
 
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