Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
It was a PITA but this is what I had to do to make it work. Give some input/ideas if I went the right way. The first 3 pics are of what I had to work with and the rest are of the mods I had to make to make it work.
Oil filter relocation
- Thread starter Sedanman
- Start date
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Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
Mod's. The last pic is of the fittings I had to start with. I'm using all 1/2 ID fittings and pressure hose.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
It's sort of a FrankenFilter set up but I'm hoping for the best.
partmopar
Mopar Crazy
Sedanman I drilled the plate that bolts to the block to give it more flow also. Is there a reason that you went with a remote oil filter?
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
Yeah,the filter is right above the header and the first oil change would have dumped oil all over it. I don't want to deal with that.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Id rather deal with the oil on the header than all those 90*s. And if a line blows/blows off......
Is there room anywhere by the trans away from the heat off the headers ? just a thought.
I've been running a dual filter relocation kit that also runs through a cooler for 6 years and zero leaks or drops of oil onto the headers. Mounted it further forward though to keep the engine heat off the filters. I'd do it to every SBM if I had more than one...
pishta
I know I'm right....
I used 2 Earl's AL 90's off the block plate and ran hydraulic lines to the filter up on the fender. It pointed forward but EZ enough to put a paper plate under it when I spun it off to replace it. Mine were not swivels, wish I found 'em but I used 2 different reach 90's to hose so I could screw both in with a wrench. Bought 2 18" hydraulic lines at a hose shop and compression connectors and did it up. looked overkill but it was clean.
Pardon the crappy pictures, but I ran a Summit single filter relocation with a Canton racing filter plate. I replaced the 1/2" rubber lines supplied by Summit with -10AN fittings and braided stainless, also from Summit.
My J bars make locating the filter a little entertaining, along with the -10AN stainless not wanting to make very tight corners. But it works just fine on the upper inner fender with a shorty filter.
My J bars make locating the filter a little entertaining, along with the -10AN stainless not wanting to make very tight corners. But it works just fine on the upper inner fender with a shorty filter.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I used the same adapter and at first I used push loc fittings like yours but the 1st time I had to take it apart (had to cut the hoses, they won't just pull back off) I was convinced I wasn't putting it back together that way so I switched the push locs for AN fittings. They might cost more but their a ton easier to take back apart and put together.
You might want to reconsider using all those 90's. IMO they'll restrict oil flow quite a bit. I'd also drill 4 more holes in the stock oil filter plate
You might want to reconsider using all those 90's. IMO they'll restrict oil flow quite a bit. I'd also drill 4 more holes in the stock oil filter plate
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
The filter is about 6 inches above the headers
You can always use what the orig owner of dads cuda installed. This was in with a bunch of receipts Ive been going thru LOL
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
That's a lot of space. What about making a diverter shield to route the oil past the headers when you take it off?
IRISH RT
Well-Known Member
I have fitted my Remote to the front chassis rail, easy and not messy to drain
bighammer
Well-Known Member
Hey Tracy how's it goin man? Drilling them holes you made mention of, could that be done on an assembled engine, one that is still on a stand? Is there worries of getting metal filings inside the engine? And I'm assuming you are referring to the 4 holes evenly spaced around the threads for the filter to spin onto?
Thanks bud! It's good to hear from you again.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
Correct but you will have to remove the plate and get a new gasket. I would use the Indian head sh lack gasket sealer instead of the silocone
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Dragonbat13
Well-Known Member
I changed the toilet paper in one of those when I worked in a lube shop. It was on a dodge diesel. Only time I ever saw it.
Yup, exactly what I used. Not only do you not have to drill it, it has a o-ring seal, so no crappy gasket to leak either.
Bakerlite
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I've been in this boat before. All I did was cut up a piece of plastic bag and hung it over the header when it was time to change the filter. I'm not a fan of all those 90 degree fittings either, I think this is a backwards step in your oiling system if you use them.
FJ5
Well-Known Member
sedanman, IMO too much turbulence created by all of those 90s. I don't remember the physics but do recall that flow decreases every time there is a 90 degree bend and you have the worst kind of 90s to promote laminar flow. 72 has the best flow rating with the hoses with no 90s. I bet it will show good pressure at the gauge, but that will be misrepresented by the decreased flow.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
Fishy,let's see your filter set up. I see your block plate is the same and you have 90's. How does it work on your motor?
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Works great. Been on the stroker since I built it 3 yrs. (about 5000 miles) ago. The 90* AN fittings flow real good. Nearly like not having a 90 at all
LOL, the guy that actually restored Dads cuda says he may have the "filter whizbang" still kicking around. I found a receipt from Chrysler dealership in 68 that wouldnt warranty replacing his front seal because "owner does NOT change his oil and filter" LOL
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