So as you saw on my last thread,I got My duster running with the new to me 360 that I built and after running it about an hour to make sure that my fans and radiator was Enough to make sure it stayed cool and always stayed at 180° no matter what so I decided to check spark plugs this morning and I have An endoscope to go down into the Bores to actually look at the pistons and make sure the bores were good and I have noticed oil on The pistons that's not very much but it's just a slight little puddle sitting on the piston. I just wanna make sure that it's a normal ordeal for These types of engines so I just want to make sure that it is normal. I did notice my car was running extremely rich when I was trying to tune it and I have a little bit of white smoke coming out of the breather. Even at first start up a basically poof's and I want to make sure that it's okay too. I'm not burning any kind of black smoke or white smoke down at the exhaust area. It actually is nice and clean coming out of the exhaust. It's just coming out of breather a little smoky. I do have pcv valve going to the carburetor and I was going to put a breather to the air cleaner but even when it attached the air cleaner. You see the white smoke coming out of the air cleaner. Also the spark plugs were black also they were gapped at .035. Now I'm sure I was just running so rich it made my eyes burn in the garage so I'm sure that was the reason they were black. I do have a flamethrower coil Sonim going to gap the plug acouople more thousandths.
Oil on pistons?
- Thread starter dustyaman
- Start date
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Are you sure the intake manifold is sealing and not bottoming on the china rails or something? Oil can be sucked into the intake ports in the heads if it is not sealing and end up in the cylinders. Happened to me once although I noticed blueish smoke coming from the exhaust.
I noticed a small leak coming from the front China rail. So that will ha e to be fixed. I've looked in other forums about the oil on pistons from all different types of cars. Some say its normal with that small amount because of the oil ring is always put oil on the cylinder walls to coat it while running. But others say its not normal. Depending on the engine
When you pull that intake to fix the leak, inspect the intake ports in the head for presence of oil. Look at the intake gasket as well for signs of oil contamination. When I pulled mine, I definitely saw oil in the ports. In my case the intake manifold was bottoming on the china rails and so I had to have the manifold machined to clear the rails.
just curious to what rings are in this engine ?
Stock rings. When I bought the engine. The engine was recently rebuilt. But they put the stamped rockers on backwards so they couldn't get the engine to run. They didn't know this when they sold it to me. I found out after when I tore the whole engine apart to inspect the bearings... which they fried trying to fire the motor. So I put all h series bearings back in. By the way they bored it out to .03 over. And the crank was under cut to .01. I matched the bearings to that. But the one thing I didn't do was put new rings in. I did take them off the pistons and inspected them and made sure they were gapped right to the bore. The rings looked fine. But I kinda wish I would of spent more money to get a decent set. That's the only thing I didn't do. And now I'm kicking myself for it. When I can I will take the intake back off and inspect the holes to the intake and such.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
You need to STOP running that engine and get your carb and timing squared away.
That thing is disgustingly rich.
I don’t know what carb you have but it needs work. A lot of work.
The last thing you need to worry about is the oil on the piston tops. You need to worry about WHY the oil is there and that‘s your carb tune.
That thing is disgustingly rich.
I don’t know what carb you have but it needs work. A lot of work.
The last thing you need to worry about is the oil on the piston tops. You need to worry about WHY the oil is there and that‘s your carb tune.
It's a 650 brawler mechanical secondary.
I tuned it last night set initial timing at 12* and got my vacuum to about 15... that's the highest it would go probably because of the 268xe cam. I heard they don't give much vacuum. It ran a lot better after I did this. But.. that's when I inspected everything this morning when the engine cooled down.
So I also don't think since I fixed the tuning issue if I let it run long enough to help burnup the access fuel. I don't know what size jets are in the brawler from the factory I would have to look. But I do have a holley jet kit in my toolbox
12 looks low to me unless its higher comp
power time it until it bucks the starter and back it off abit
recheck your float level
make sure transfer slot is right then readjust carb
I'm checking that again tonight n I get home from dinner. I don't remember the numbers on top of my head when I did on the engine stand that was like 6 months ago.
And no it's a low compression engine
And float level has site glasses on both sides and the fuel is right in the middle of the glass on both primary and secondary glasses
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
You need at least 18 initial timing.
Plus the Brawler usually has way too much emulsion. And the rest of the tune up isn’t much better.
Plus the Brawler usually has way too much emulsion. And the rest of the tune up isn’t much better.
atleast 15 gotta run good gas
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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Probably washed the cylinder walls with that ridiculously rich condition, rings may never seal, and no, wet oil on top of the pistons is never normal. Fix the horrible tune up, change the oil and run it hard a few hundred miles. If it doesn't clean up, the disassembly and re ring is in your future. Blow by, "the puffing" you see out of the valve covers is another indication of poor ring seal.
Ugg that hurts to hear this. I will change the oil asap! What oil would you recommend to maybe help get the rings to reseal if there is any? Also on the jet sizing the stock jets are primary 70s and secondary 74s how far do I need to go down? I have a kit that goes down to 64s
I will redo the timing when I get new oil and change the jets
I agree that plug looks extremely rich especially after only 1 hr of running. What I don't know is whether oil intrusion into the cylinder can cause a plug to look like that after only 1 hr of run time. What you think? I still think he has oil being sucked into the cylinder whether it be from bad intake manifold seal, blown head gasket, valve seals, rings or whatever else. I think that amount of oil after shutdown is unusual. I am curious whether all cylinders show that oil.
All cylinders each one has that in them exactly they are all exactly the same. So I don't think it's a bad seal from the manifold.. I think the previous posters and you are right I'm running extremely rich. I'm trying g to see how many jet sizes I need to drop, do that, change oil, and put more timing in it. Would it be smart to put new plugs in it as well?
Wait, if all cylinders show the same amount of "oil", then it could exactly be an intake manifold sealing problem. I'm thinking, is it oil or gas you are seeing in those cylinders? Probably oil IMO unless you work fast.
IMO, your plugs read way rich. I think you have oil intrusion into cylinders. Carb may be rich as well.
Or... I could be wrong.
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