oil pan removal on 67 GTS

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buck351

buck351

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Can the oil pan be removed without lifting the engine? I had it off once in my youth but can't remember if I lifted the engine or not. Seems to me I didn't but it was so long ago I don't remember that detail. Got a pan leak I want to fix.
 
I changed a oil pan gasket on a 383 Road Runner without lifting it.If it is a small block you may be able to do it.
 
You will have to jack it up, dont forget to take the distributor cap off.
Honestly it is faster to pull the motor out than mess with the pan under the car.
 
Hey guys...its a '67 GTS....383 big block engine, so ,don't worry about the dist cap.

Again, buck, thats a huge problem. You just need to give up on that car and send it up here to me. I'll take care of it for you!...LOL
 
You don't have to jack the engine up. I have a 69 383-s Barracuda and have removed the oil pan several times. Unbolt the idler arm so the drag link will drop down. That will give you room to drop the pan far enough to clear the oil pump pickup.
 
rklein383 said:
You don't have to jack the engine up. I have a 69 383-s Barracuda and have removed the oil pan several times. Unbolt the idler arm so the drag link will drop down. That will give you room to drop the pan far enough to clear the oil pump pickup.
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yep once I got the steering linkage out of the way and the harder to get at front pan bolts it dropped right down. Now it took a couple of hours to get the linkage out of the way with distorying the grease boots. I didn't want to use the fork ball joint separator which distorys the boot but use the one that uses a clamping action to separate the ball joints. Problem with this one one is you can't get in some of the joints due to the angles. Finally got a sequence to take the linkage apart that worked.

Now I have to make sure the pan is straight and clean all the surfaces and glue the gasket to the pan.
 
On the 69, you just have to remove the bolt that separates the idler arm from the K frame. No need to mess with the grease boots. I know the 67 is a little different arrangement with the idler arm.
 
So what is everyone using for a pan gasket. The original one leaked a little when it only had 16439 miles on it. I changed it in my youth with a cork and it leaked a little too on the back edge again. The egine rebuilders leaked on the back edge and my recent attempted did too. I think I figured out why the back edge leaked after examining the pan design again so I made spreader bars for the back of the pan.

Yes this last time I made sure I straightend the pan. I used a gasket that was suppose to be crush proof, permatexed it to the pan, let it set up, put rtv for oil gaskets on the block side of the gasket and hand tightened the bolts with a nut drive to not over tighten. Thought there is no way that would leak. It did. Then I insatalled spreader bars and I had put larger washers on the other bolts to spead the forces out more. Then I decided to tighten then up more than hand tight with a nut driver and looked up the torque spec which said 15 ft lbs. I decided to try 10. The crush proof gasket squeeze out at a few bolts. Looks like it will be coming off again. I'm considering no gasket and nonhardening permatex. Thoughts?
 
1/8 inch RTV, let it skin for 30 minutes, install hand tight. Let it set up overnight then torque it to just a turn past snug as you are no longer torquing a gasket, just keeping the bolts in. That should seal most anything. B pan is nice and flat ,confirm.
 
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