Oil Pan Removal

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Shane

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Hey how hard is to remove the oil pan with the motor still in the car?

Anyd tips would be greatly appreciated..

Shane
 
Too many variables... what car, motor, headers ? You'll need to pull some motor support bolts and jack the motor up. Place block between the motor support halves to hold the engine up away from the K. Beware damaging the fan shroud and distributer when raising the motor. Hope this helps.
 
Oh sorry... I guess that woudl be an intelligent thing to mention when asking that question..

340 in a 68 barracuda..with headers.. No shroud..

Do you have to worry about the tranny mount when jacking the motor up?
 
You shouldn't have to worry about the tranny mount. Unless it is half shot out to start with.

The motor mounts are probably in the way and the centerlink has to be removed.... of course.

Jack one side of the engine up (Remove distributor cap) and it shouldn't be to hard to do. I've done this with headers.
 
Unless the tranny mount is antique and about to break anyway it shouldn't be a concern.
headers are always a problem. I guess you will need to unbolt them at the heads. Before or after removing the starter is your call. Good luck
 
Good luck is right!... thanks for the replies...

Does it even remotely make sense that my windage try mayhave came loose and is rattle like heck at idle until around 1500rpm?

Otherwise I will jsut have to pull out the whole motor...
 
You will have to remove that steering center link. I would disconnect the lower radiator hose too. Remove motor mount bolts, jack engine up, and place 1" thick pieces of wood between motor mount and k-frame on each side. Lower engine down. Remove starter. The oil pan will drop right out provided you can get the headers moved out of the way.

You sure the flex plate bolts are not hitting the flex plate cover?
 
I'm not to sure on anything just yet... I didnt have a chance this weekend to get into it... I am going to back it into the garage tonight, get the front jacked up nice and high , and go from there..
 
If you didn't use lock washers or loctite on the windage tray bolts it is possible they came loose. I always use a dab of blue loctite to make sure they don't vibrate loose. But there are so many other items that can rattle you should check it closer before you pull the pan cause I can tell you from experience R&R'ing the pan isn't a fun job. Check the header tubes real close as they can rattle against things also. I fought a rattle in my 68 Cuda for a couple months and finally found it was one of the header tubes rattling against the right side engine to trans. brace. Had to pull the brace off and grind about 1/16" off for clearance and that fixed it.
 
Oh I know... I have been dreading tryin to pull the pan off...

So tongiht I start it up, turn it around in the garage...rattling away still under 1500rpm...

Finish cutting the grass so everything cools right off.. and jack the front up nice and high...

I still have the little cover off the bottom of the bell housing where the fly wheel is...I grab the fly wheel and it moves a little... So I wiggle it and it moves left to right quite a bit...

I am 99% sure that it should not move at all, so clearly my problem lies there..

any thoughts on this?

agian thanks for the help...

Shane
 
Not good. At minimum the flywheel and bolts will need replaced. We can only hope the bolt holes in the crank aren't damaged. Good luck.
 
Thats the plan for the next day or two...

I dont understand how it would come loose. I used the red locktight on the bolts..
I guess I wont know until I get in there and see...I'll snap a few pictures too...

Well i got time now here at work, what are the options if I do need a fly wheel? Its a slow day here at work, it will give me somthing to look at online..lol
 
Shane said:
Thats the plan for the next day or two...

I dont understand how it would come loose. I used the red locktight on the bolts..
I guess I wont know until I get in there and see...I'll snap a few pictures too...
Click to expand...

Wow red loctite usually makes them hold fine. Did you use the proper hardened bolts and torque them down?
 
I did...Thats the part that really bugs me... But who knows, maybe something else is wrong..

I will post some pictures when I get the tranny out... I'd love it if I just had to tighten a few bolts and put it all back together...fingers crossed...

Thanks agin,

Shane!
 
Years ago my bro-in-law had a Datsun F3 ( sad but true). He got it free from a neighbor.
All those flywheel related parts were damaged. 2 of the bolts and crank holes were wollered completely smooth. All of the flywheel holes were egg shaped.
I worked through an access hole in the inner fender with long shanks welded onto 2 drill bits and 1 tap. 6 new bolts and on the road again.
Bottom line.. yours can be fixed. Good luck with it.
 
Thanks Redfish!... I know it can... I am taking a break and going fishing this weekend, and will get apart and repaird next week..
 
Quick update... I offically pulled my first transmission out last night...fairly simple actually... Just had a little bit of trouble getting the top bolt on the drivers side... It was a lot tighter on that side then the passenger side..

Going to pull the bell housing tonight and see whats wrong...
 
Well the issue was found, but not exactly sure what caused it...four of the bolts were right loose, and two need to turns to come completely loose..

Now for the strange, the lock tight can still be seen on the threads of the bolts...

Also there is alot of gear oil around under there...while taking everything apart I was concerned it was my rear main seal, but after its all apart it definatley appears to be gear oil... It looks as the gear oil is right around the fly bolts..(I will take pictures in the morning when there is light)

Is it possible the gear oil got in there and ate away at the lock tight and helped loosen the bolts?

Also the holes on the fly wheel are ovaled so I have to look into a new one... Dodgefreak put a link in a previous post with a bunch of flywheels from summit for me to look at, does anyone have any experience with Fidanza aluminum fly wheel??

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FIZ-194361/

Thanks for any help...

Shane
 
Gear oil would have came from the transmission front seal.
Correct torque of good bolts in good holes shouldn't require locktite.
Infact the locktite may have caused the problem if it wasn't applied properly.
The stuff seperates in the container, "shake well before using". Mating surfaces must be clean and dry ( parts cleaner followed with rubbing alcohol ). Google it and try again, Or just leave it out and install new bolts bone dry.
 
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