It is not watery, more milky and blends with the oil .
It is a 7 quart aftermarket pan. Probably a Moroso or 440 source pan. not sure.
oil pressure disappeared.
- Thread starter Kent mosby
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It is not watery, more milky and blends with the oil .
It is a 7 quart aftermarket pan. Probably a Moroso or 440 source pan. not sure.
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Last week it did not have oil pressure, I primed it with a drill and got pressure, drove it for 5-10 minutes and all was good. I then went back this week to go for a drive and after 10-20 seconds of idling I saw no pressure so I shut it down. no weird noises.
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Did it warm up well on that first attempt? Likely does not matter. If I see milk like that I always look for water. It my be residue as you say but? I would be concerned!
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On the bright side, and reason to keep a chin up!
I thought I majorly messed my 383 up in May this year. It was not as bad as I diagnosed in the end, 2 rocker arms, and a set of pushrods.
I have put almost 1K on since and still have some miles to log before winter time storage!
Always look to the bright side!
I thought I majorly messed my 383 up in May this year. It was not as bad as I diagnosed in the end, 2 rocker arms, and a set of pushrods.
I have put almost 1K on since and still have some miles to log before winter time storage!
Always look to the bright side!
pishta
I know I'm right....
"My assessment is that the wires were pulled into the pump and got embedded causing the outer ring to spin and the rotor was not pumping..." Not so fast...The clover rotor turns inside the 5 lobe idler like a wheel...they both are free to turn in unision as designed. I dont see anything that would prevent oil pressure from building as I've taken some far worse ones apart that still generated 6-8 it idle. The pump pressurizes the filter so anything getting into the filter wont pass the media. Gears mesh in this manner.
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IMO those metal wires would be enough to lock the pump down. I would be inspecting the female hex in the pump, the oil pump drive shaft and drive shaft gear, the camshaft gear, the female slot in the camshaft gear and the male slot on the distributor shaft. I believe you will find a failure "somwhere" between "all that".
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I do not disagree with that!
I have had those wires come off and, not only hit me in my face , thank the lord for glasses!
But not paying attention can be costly as I found them everywhere!
I prefer to use the scuff type pads on my air tool Regulated to a lower PSI!
pishta
I know I'm right....
I've seen worse pump internals that just gobbled up the trash and embedded it in the rotor or idler. Huge radial scars, crap in filters thats pretty big. Hardened valve seals comes to mind...like little black pieces of coal. This thing is backed with some torque. Id think that pump would power right over that wire, embed it for sure but not lock it up and round a 5/16 hex? Show us the carnage of the powertrain to the pump if that is what happened. I think the weak point would have to be the hex drive but it has no where to go to "round off"...? Does that pickup sit absolutely flat on the bottom of the pan? Mystery deepens.....
<<PS...the 4 lobe gear may only be pinned onto the shaft, that could shear easily but would do nothing to the powertrain as everything would still be rotating 'cept the lobes..may want to check that...clamp in a vice and see if the shaft turns independent of the gear. >>
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Well, just for a test, I will reassemble the pump and use it as is. I have cleaned all the parts. The shaft hex looks good. Then I will double check the pickup depth. Then just to be sure. I will place a few screws in the bottom of the pickup for spacers. I will also inspect all the parts. Then, crank it and see what we have. Of course, I will post my findings. Also I will Vaseline it to get a prime.
any thoughts on the white milky stuff?
any thoughts on the white milky stuff?
I think it's just condensation that's not gotten hot enough to evaporate.
pishta
I know I'm right....
milkshake could be water but small amounts will generally gas out with the heat of the motor. Imagine all the condensation that a northern car gets in a cold garage and they start right up.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
The pump is before the filter so it wouldn’t catch that stuff. That’s why you need to use a razor blade to clean gasket surfaces.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
THIS
Kent what I was getting at earlier is inspecting the distributor gear ON THE CAM as well as the intermediate gear/ shaft. There is "nothing" that should stop that pump besides breakage. MAKE SURE there is not a broken drive pin on your intermediate shaft
This morning I only had time to check the 4 lobe gear. I removed it, put it in a vice and tried to rotate it. It was solid. I then put it on the hex drive shaft and tried to turn it firmly by hand. No slippage there in either direction. The external hex of the gear and the external hex of the shaft look great. If that is solid, then all above it does not matter if I am thinking straight. Remember that the car will start. That means that the cam gear has not slipped or the female slot of the gear and/or the flat of the distributor shaft are not damaged. The distributor just rides along, correct?
I will be replacing the oil pump today anyway and adjusting the pickup length. I remeasured the depth and with the gasket tightened down it could be flush with the floor. I will definitely be placing a spacer in the pickup to prevent it from bottoming out. Even if it is not touching during the install, my pan hangs down and may get bumped. I might even drill some 1/16 holes on the sides just for extra measures.
I also did check what would happen if a wire got into the gear. It momentarily binds but then breaks loose leaving an indentation. This is with a 6 inch allen wrench driving it. Thus I don't think anything could be broken by the wires embedding under power.
If I am faulty in my logic, please advise.
I will be replacing the oil pump today anyway and adjusting the pickup length. I remeasured the depth and with the gasket tightened down it could be flush with the floor. I will definitely be placing a spacer in the pickup to prevent it from bottoming out. Even if it is not touching during the install, my pan hangs down and may get bumped. I might even drill some 1/16 holes on the sides just for extra measures.
I also did check what would happen if a wire got into the gear. It momentarily binds but then breaks loose leaving an indentation. This is with a 6 inch allen wrench driving it. Thus I don't think anything could be broken by the wires embedding under power.
If I am faulty in my logic, please advise.
I did do that the first time it did not pick up prime. I inspected all parts from above and below. Looking back, it may have needed the speed of the drill priming it to overcome the vacuum created trying to suck against the floor of the pan.
I would increase the gap in between the pickup screen to oil pan sump, to the max. The flex of the pan could be enough to draw upwards closing off the pickup screen. Me I would heat the pick up tube and bend it accordingly.
All he needs to do is twist the pickup a little in the block and lift it off the floor of the pan. He doesn't need to bend anything. It's not crucial the pickup be perfectly parallel with the bottom of the pan.
I would set it up so that the pickup is 1/8 off the pan without gaskets. Anything closer you may start to suck up things you may not want to....
I finally got it back together. I adjusted the length of the pickup and placed a few small screws as spacers. I also added some side holes to the pickup. I should never have this issue again. I did also pull the distributor and inspect the cam and drive gears, the shaft as well. I replaced the oil pump and Vaselined it. I primed it with a drill motor and pressure immediately. I will also be installing an oil pressure gauge on the steering column for a bit and then may relocate later, but it is a nice Mopar branded autometer gauge, so it may stay.
Angleiron2
Active Member
I had a pickup break at the threads and the oil pressure was lower at first then bounced around. I shut it off, I was at the track. It wasn’t broken completely off, but broke completely when I moved it around removing the pan. The oil pickup tube was from 440 source, 440 source sells some really good products and I am grateful that they exist, but their oil pickup are not as good as the Milodon pickups. Another thing…. Did you leave anything in the pan like a rag that would get sucked into the pickup? Stewart Warner makes a warning light/buzzer for low oil pressure and high temp, I put one on the car after that.
I like those pickup mods, Kent. Looks good. Glad you got pressure back. Stuff like that is disconcerting to say the least.
Thanks
I am glad I was watching the oil pressure upon startup. I should be good now
Me too! That could have ended really badly and it didn't! I sure am glad and I KNOW you are!
This got me thinking. My oil pressure light on the dash never came on. I was watching the gauge. I have both the light and the mechanical sensor connected on both ports of the 440 block. I think it is time to check both the sensor and the bulb in the dash. I was lucky to have seen the lack of pressure without the idiot light coming on. I am now thinking that I may have used teflon tape installing the sender and I do not have a good ground.
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