Other than removing the stud and re-using the oem bolt, does anybody have ideas to use the stud and still clear the pump? I was thinking of trying to remove the stud. put it through the pump, start the washer/nut and then attempting to slide the whole enchilada down and into the block. Comments, other suggestions? Thx for any and all help!
Oil pump/stud interferance
- Thread starter jimynick
- Start date
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Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
You have to use a bolt or machine the main cap down and use a shorter stud. I always do the latter.
I have had the rear main cap milled down where the washer sits , used a smaller thickness nut, and cut the stud down to get it to work
dano
Evil Handy Man
I reused the bolt and was part of the set when my block was line honed.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Heard of the stud interference....can you take a grinder to the end of the stud and grind it flush with the nut?
Like this....
Like this....
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Do either of what's been said. I've done both and both ways work fine...but I also grind the pump body some...so less comes off the stud/nut.
If you use the stud, also use the 12 point nut for that..n torque n grind till the pump clears by at least .025
If you use the stud, also use the 12 point nut for that..n torque n grind till the pump clears by at least .025
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't go through the expense of having the cap machined. A bolt is more than enough, it's just a oil pump.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
He’s talking about the bolt that holds the main cap on, not the bolts that hold the oil pump to the main cap.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
You’d think ARP would have a fix for this. I’m pretty god dammed sure they’ve “never seen this before”……………
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I would simply use a thinner nut, 12 point. You can grind down the stud and still keep the top of the stud flat by using the side of a grinding wheel on a bench grinder. Or grind down the oil pump body. I'm sure that this has happened before and apparently the company's don't want to take the time necessary to eliminate the problem. All they would have to do is use a shorter stud and nut.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
You can’t just use a thin nut and top off the stud.
To get the clearance, you have to mill the bolt boss on the cap down and use a shorter stud. Or use a bolt. I don’t mix bolts and studs but many do. It looks like crap doing that.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
^^^ THIS STUFF RIGHT HERE...
ARP has been rolling out high strength hardware for decades. This issue is known to anyone with a SBM using their stud kit and a stock style oiling system. I've experienced it first hand, and I suspect the lion's share of folks just go with swapping out offending stud and use a factory bolt, without much ado, but it's talked about elsewhere on this site...
AMEN !!
pishta
I know I'm right....
Grind 2mm off the bottom of the stud before you run it in.....Duh? Their head studs dont clear B headers with a common flange either.
Yeah and if you call them and tell them about it, they'll act like Comp does about the slant 6 oil pump drive gear on their camshafts. They don't give a chit.
A lot of this type stuff goes along with hot roddin and modifications and all but this kinda thing to me is something that just flat out doesn't fit as is and it should. As far as I know it's like this on every single small block, is it not?
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
They are all like that if you use main studs. It’s a simple process to reduce the bolt boss on the cap.
Amen - unless its a CHEBBY
prepare for Murphy's Law or the unknown !!!
I'm sure they(ARP) have looked into the problem and probably came to the conclusion that ARP can't make a stud and nut that would fit in the space without machining the Cap any better than the factory Chrysler bolt strength wise, so if we want to use the Arp studs it's on us to make it work sort of thing without ARP compromising on the ability of there product and reputation .
My main cap holes needed to be enlarged, the rear main holes were a bit small for the studs. and when torqued, was grabbing crank. Plus shortening the stud and nut.
Mike at B3 3 figured that one out, I wad having trouble understanding what was wrong. All good now.
Mike at B3 3 figured that one out, I wad having trouble understanding what was wrong. All good now.
A couple of engines ago I took the time to cut the stud down, used a 12 point nut (also cut down) and clearance the pump with a grinder....it worked, but there was not a lot of the nut left to torque properly (was doable, but a pain). The last engine that I built for my car I just picked up a single ARP bolt for that hole (studs everywhere else)....WAY easier to deal with than my other setup.
grimreaper
Cross Member
If you call ARP they will tell you that this is the first they've heard of it but if you hang in there the person at ARP will send you their fix.... a bolt to replace the stud.
Well, after much to-ing and fro-ing, I think I'll use a bolt, and there's a few reasons for that. One, the cap is on tightly in it's register and it's pin and two, the factory thought bolts were satisfactory. Three, I have no easy access to a milling machine to cut down the cap. But here's a question- the factory torque (on bolts) is 85 lb/ft, but I have Pioneer studs and in conversation with Pioneer's tech dept. they recommended 130 lb/ft! I don't want to pull the threads out of the block and wonder if anyone else has experience in this regard?
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
And that’s why I don’t mix studs and bolts. The stud needs more torque to get the same stretch so you have two different torque values on the same cap.
You change the torque valve and you can bet you will change the size/shape of the bore.
Chrysler used bolts because they are cheaper, not better.
You are in New Jersey. I find it hard to believe you can’t swing a dead cat and find someone with a mill to machine the cap down.
Joisy??!! Nah, more like Ontario, Canada LOL Maybe I'll just pull the other stud and bolt it up. Cheers!
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