Oil??

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67DARTGTCONV

67DARTGTCONV

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What blend of oil are you using for summer driving? LA mild 360.

10-30?
 
I'm using Amsoil 15w-50 "racing" oil. It has a lot of zinc in it. Zinc is needed to protect your flat tappet cam! but, bad for your catalytic converter. Not really a big issue here. :-D

If you don't want to spend $11 a quart for racing oil. Use motorcycle oil.
Motorcycle oils are very high in zinc and are not government restricted to their zinc content.


I hope I haven't opened the zinc content Can Of Worms.
 
73Duster422 said:
If you don't want to spend $11 a quart for racing oil. Use motorcycle oil.
Motorcycle oils are very high in zinc and are not government restricted to their zinc content.
Click to expand...


Valvoline has a Diesel oil that has the zinc and also offered in 15w 40
 
Thanks, Does Royal Purple have a good amount of Zinc in thier product?
 
Amsoil "Premium Protection" or "Racing" oil. 15W-50 or 20W-50.
 
Umm, isn't the zinc really only needed for cam break in?
 
I've used Mobile one synthetic for years in my Turbo Daytona so, I just carried it on to my Duster. I read in one of the Mopar magazines about the zinc( or the absent of) in today's oils. After that I thought about a change but didn't really know which one to change to.
 
Oil thread; Autozone, ask for Lucas break-in lube, $5. Each change. It ain't on the shelf.
 
I have used every oil known to man and with that being said ,i have my mind made up TO WHATS BEST.
AND ALSO A LITTLE TOO MUCH TIME ON MY HANDS TOO WRITE THIS.

All motor oil is good ,but not when it's dirty,so change it by how it looks and not by the mileage.Every engine dosen't have the same ring seal ,and some engines make the motor oil dirty faster then others.
2)I choose the right grade for what i feel the engine is going to be used for
like racing,long trips or trying to make the most horse power.
THIN OIL MAKES MORE HORSE POWER BUT LOWER OIL PRESSURE.THICK OIL GIVES BETTER PROTECTION AND HIGHER OIL PRESSURE.
3)I always use two additives (marvel mystery oil and lucas)
I have taken motors apart that have had marvil in them since they were new and they were perfectly clean ,and believe it or not ,the crank and rod bearings looked polished.((very clean))
Lucas oil stays on the engine parts so you don't have any dry starts ,and helps give good oil presure when hot.
4)synthetic is good for faster oil presure on start up,and it's very strong film wise .Natural oil is good for the seals and is very cheap so you could change it three to one cost wise.I think mixing the two is the best way to go.
Right now i have quaker state 10w40 in both my cars with marvil and lucas.
The quaker state was $9.50 for a 5 quart jug.{wall mart}:burnout:

ps for a good zink oil i have used valvoline racing.
and lucas break in oil at start up.My first three oil changes for my new motor were valvoline racing.
 
RPMLegends18 said:
I use a Valvoline VR-1 20w50 in my mild 318 all year round
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For what is worth my engine builder says that the heavy weight oils are harder on your engine. He has done some extensive testing in this area and found that most damaged caused to an engine is in the first few seconds of start up. Lighter weight oil circulates faster and helps avoid the damagcaused by a slow flowing oil. Bottom line is that the lighter oils get to the top faster and help protect earlier. This is a theory from Joe Sherman Racing Engines. Makes sense to me.
 
to green1
YES YOU CAN MIX ALL OILS AND EVEN DIFFERANT WEIGHTS.
For example if you mix a quart of 5w30 synthetic with a quart of 10w40 natural oil, you will have a semi synthetic oil that is close to a 10w30.In fact if you substitute one quart of synthetic oil ,out of 5 quarts in a oil change you will have a pretty good semi synthetic.
My typicle oil change is 3 1/2 quarts of regular natural oil,1 quart marvel mystery oil and a half quart of lucas oil.
I used to use pure synthetic all the time,but i like to change my oil to often and that gets exspensive.
I think a clean motor is very important for the longevity of parts.
I have been using cheaper and cheaper oil in my motors and with great results.
REMEMBER THAT I USE MARVEL AND LUCAS (ALL THE TIME),SO THIS IS NOT JUST PLAIN OIL.
I have used one of the most exspensive {royal purple}, and also used one of the cheapest oils{wall mart}and everything in between\\\\
some people might think thats crazy ,but if you study what oil is really made of, then you relize there is only a slight differance in the cheapest oil compared to the most exspensive.
If you want a pure synthetic oil for a little over $3.00 dollors a quart then use wall marts super tech line.
If you want a natural oil then buy a 5 quart jug of wall mart super tech natural oil and it comes out to $1.90 a quart.
[[[My point is to use the cheaper oil and change it more often.]]]
This savings gives you enough money to now buy your oil additives.
YOUR MOTOR IS WAY BETTER OFF WITH THIS MIX THEN JUST PLAIN OIL FOR THE SAME PRICE.
NO DRY STARTS BECAUSE OF THE LUCAS OIL
NO CARBON BUILD UP BECAUSE OF THE MARVIL OIL
When i took my heads off my mopar performance commando crate motor for head work and a cam change, nobody could believe how my motor looked.It hardly had any bore ware (no ridge)
This was done at 10,000 miles.This was a street car that was street raced and track raced, one to two times a week for four years strait, and then raced twice a month on average ,for another three years.This motor has since raced another 8 years.It has just over 20,000 miles on it and runs super strong.
THE SHORT BLOCK WAS BUILT IN 1994 AND IS STILL STRONG.
AND BY THE WAY,IT ALWAYS HAS SLICKS ON IT, EVEN ON THE STREET.
If nothings happens,knock on wood,in four years this motor will be 20 YEARS OLD!!!!
I wanted you to know that no matter what oil you run,oil dosen't kill motors.people do.
keep the oil clean and you will have a clean motor.
PS \\EVERY CAR I OWN GETS THE SAME STUFF, AND I HAVE NEVER BLOWN A MOTOR IN ANYTHING.
MARVIL IS A GREAT PRODUCT FOR YOUR REGULAR CAR IN WINTER WEATHER.((cold))
This is where a synthetic oil really shines [[ cold weather starts ]] -20 deg.
still use marvel in the gas and oil even if you use a synthetic.
marvel and a little lucas will keep your cars engine very happy no matter what oil you use.

WOW,i gotta go ,:clock: :burnout:
 
Umm, isn't the zinc really only needed for cam break in?
Click to expand...

Not really but yes, the flat tappets is the only hard machine surface rubbing on hard machine surface in the engine........... Why take a chance of it?
 
Going back to the original question, see the following page:

Chrysler Oil Recommendations - 1975 Chrysler Service Manual

For summer driving, you will be safe to use a 10W-30 or 15W-40 HDEO. A Heavy Duty Engine Oil will have plenty of anti-wear additive for a flat tappet valve trains and better detergency than racing oil for street driven engines. Excessively thick oils (like 20W-50) waste power and fuel and are only required if your oil is extremely hot. 15W-40 will be the cheapest option and the CI-4/SL oils generally have 1300 to 1400 ppm of phosphorus for maximum valve train protection.

I don't think it makes sense to mix your own oil unless you know more about formulating an engine oil than Exxon, Shell, Chevron, Amsoil, etc. If you want a 30-weight semi-synthetic, just go out and buy one (like Shell Rotella SB 0W-30 or Petro-Canada Duron XL 0W-30). Synthetic oils have a more constant viscosity over a wide temperature range which means they don't thin out as quickly when hot and don't thicken up as much when cold. AFAIK, only synthetics get a 0W rating.

If you're using Lucas, don't forget that you also get foamy oil at no extra charge:
What about Additives?
 
I run two oils.One in the Grand Caraven is Castrol Syntec 5-30.Works excellent and so far Im pushing 212 000 Km's.The engine runs flawlessly and is a 3.8 litre.I have gotten as much as 34 mpg out of it.Not bad for a flying brick.
In the hunting rig ( sorry,g.m) I use Mobile 1 hi mileage synthetic,10-30. Stock 350 with throttle body fuel inj.It's due for it's second change soon since I bought it. I dont pull down a lot of miles in this truck as it needs some work and also used mainly for hauling and hunting.So far so good,runs quiet.I gotta get off my *** and pull it off the road next spring for repairs etc.
 
hey fjr
thanks for the input
I have seen that test before and it makes you think??
What i see are gears half way in oil, that are of a very thin design (not of the same thickness) as a real ring and pinion.
Also the test does not use enough oil.
What you have is a blender not a car.
Think about it??
If i was to run my rear gears with hardley any gear oil ,they would over heat, and the oil would become aerated (full of air) and even more so with lucas because it would stick to the gears giving you less oil to use.
In the real world,a rear end is full of oil up to about half way, and when it needs more oil ,you have two axle tubes half way full of oil also to draw from.
The ring and pinion are only two gears(of a completly differant design) and pull way more oil up and over themselfs as they rotate(due to the thicknes of the gears) and are giving more then enough of an oil supply.
If this TEST was real,my gears would have been toast 10 years ago.
AND AS FAR AS A ENGINE GO'S THIS DOSEN,T EVEN APPLY.

LUCAS STAYS ON THE ENGINE PARTS AND IS THERE DURING COLD STARTS, TO PROTECT METAL TO METAL CONTACT.IT'S NOTHING MORE THEN A BETTER STP ADDITIVE.
Schaeffers is a good oil ,but there test is the real snake oil.(sales pitch)
 
I use MOTUL 4 stroke motorcycle oil. 10/40. Doesn't have an API rating (SM/SJ) since its for motorcycles, the rating is MA series. Even better :) Has extra Moly in it.

I've used motorcycle oil in all my vehicles
 
Maybe the BITOG additive report is a bit flawed but I think the test is applicable because crankshaft windage and gears inside an engine can cause air entrainment.

Personally, I would think that an engine oil is already equipped with all of the additives it requires and I don't think I can do a better job of formulating an additive package than the manufacturers. If it works for you, then I think you should continue using it but I also think your vehicles would be better protected with 100% HDEO of whatever brand you prefer (see Corvair Oil Recommendation - Recommendation 33 & 34, p 20 & 21). My 2¢.

Anyway, the original question was about viscosity and not about oil brands or additives.
 
50 weight for summer and 30 weight for winter
strait weight for bracket racing \\ more consitant
BUT IF IT'S ON SALE ,IT GOES IN THE MOTOR.
last year i got three cases of wolfs head oil for a $1.00 a quart
that was a good deal!!!!
In the end ,if it's a good motor, and full of clean oil, it will be fine.
Everything else is us just trying to make things better.(ADDITIVES)
Is it better?? sure is \\ thats what hot rodding is all about.
can you imagine if don garlits was happy with everyone elses conclusions????
WE WOULD HAVE NEVER KNOWN HIS NAME ( DON WHO????)
trying new things is half the fun and once and a while you discover something new.:thumrigh:
 
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