Oiling question

[1930]

Couple of quick ones,

I bought the rod to get some oil pressure to the top of the engine before I try and start it. Only now do I see that the distributor drive deal has to be removed to use the tool. Is it true that simply turning the tool with a drill isnt gonna get any oil going anywhere, that I will have to turn the crank as well with a wrench to get oil passages lined up?

Also I notice there are two holes where the pump mounts, is one of them a return line of some sort?

Does anyone have a diagram of the oil travel in a 440? Goes from pump to where and then onto where?

Is it true that the only oil that the lifters get is the oil thats drips from the top end back down into the galley?

 

[rustycowll69]

removing dist. drive shafts is not a big deal.
yes, you should roll the crank over to distribute oil in preoil procedure.
one hole is the pump inlet, the other is the outlet.
no, there are oil galleries for each bank of lifters.
get yourself a factory service manual

 

[1930]

Got it, thanks

 

[cgfen]

removing dist. drive shafts is not a big deal.
yes, you should roll the crank over to distribute oil in preoil procedure.
one hole is the pump inlet, the other is the outlet.
no, there are oil galleries for each bank of lifters.
get yourself a factory service manual

turning the crank with the distributor gear out will make things interesting.
I would not wish that on anyone not very familiar with the consequences.

 

[Daves69]

..............

 

[rustycowll69]

turning the crank with the distributor gear out will make things interesting.
I would not wish that on anyone not very familiar with the consequences.

there has got to be plenty of threads on this forum, going into great detail, how to reinstall the quill shaft, and dist. and phase the rotor. I think it is much better to prime the engine with the quill removed than cranking the engine with the quill and dist. in place. I don't think it's too much of a stretch, in assuming someone who has rebuilt their engine, installed it in the car, and who knows enough to want to prime his engine has the wherewithal to figure out how to do it, with a little bit of reading.

 

[1930]

Getting the engine timed properly is the least of my concerns at this point

 

[OKDart]

The top end gets oil through the #4 cam bearing. If you line up the holes with the cam before pulling the intermediate shaft, the top end will get oil. Just make note of how the shaft is clocked before removing. That will eliminate the need to rotate the engine.

 

[moper]

I always preoil and turn the crank at the same time as the drill. Leave the valave covers off and you can watch the oil hit the rockers. It can get messy though depending on the volume of oil.

 

[rustycowll69]

I always preoil and turn the crank at the same time as the drill. Leave the valave covers off and you can watch the oil hit the rockers. It can get messy though depending on the volume of oil.

I have a couple of sets of SB rocker covers I made years ago: one set I drilled eight like 1/2" holes on the inside(intake side) wall of the cover so I could watch the pushrods spin on cam break-in start up; the second set I cut the top off the valve cover so I could adjust the valves while running, but not get oil everywhere.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

I always preoil and turn the crank at the same time as the drill. Leave the valave covers off and you can watch the oil hit the rockers. It can get messy though depending on the volume of oil.

This is the advice to follow, Jason.

 

[1930]

This is the advice to follow, Jason.

Ill get it done Ratcliff has my 440 at this point, Ive gone down there a couple of times the last couple of months and hes been decent too me so I figured I would give the relationship another chance.

He taking the .013 off the one bank and the .022 ? ( just guessing ) off the other.