OK, so what steering coupler do I WANT???

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cudaracer

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As I plan on rebuilding my E-body steering coupler, I see there are U-joint replacements I can use instead of the factory flex coupling. Anybody have any experience with these rigid joints in your steering system? What should I expect? Is it too harsh, or is it something I should use to improve my sloppy steering?
 
I know that the factory one is made to move, because the body flexes, I have not used any rigid type, would be interested to see if they have.
 
Steven190 said:
I know that the factory one is made to move, because the body flexes, I have not used any rigid type, would be interested to see if they have.
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I built a 2400 lbs. vega, w/ a hot 406 in it , and had to go to a home made steering shaft, w/ a u joint/ no problem !
Also have one in my 505" fastback, so far so good--------------
 
I was hoping for a before and after experience to help me baseline a reference. I am worried that a u-joint will transfer vibrations and harshness to my hands.
 
Don't know about vibrations, but the roller bearing in the upper column probably won't be happy about the fixed u joint.
 
No, the factory coupler allows for some angle, and a u joint can be angled more, but the factory coupler also allows a bit of in/out "plunge" to accommodate body and chassis flex. A solid u joint eliminates that feature, and the steering shaft has a c clip on each side of the upper bearing, which is retaind in the column, so any flexibility in the chassis will be transferred right to that small bearing. Not good.
 
Thanks for the info. That makes a lot of sense. I will just rebuild the column and live with the vehicle as is, a flex-flyer that can never be as good as a modern basic car, let alone a performance car.
 
I'll be crapped if I know what you want.
 
What if you have reduced the chassis flex? I have frame connectors welded to my floors. Anyone using a u-joint with frame connectors instead of the original coupler?
 
I have the US tool frame connections and I use the factory coupler. I have no steering issues, and the coupler clears the TTI headers. Did not want to change the factory tried and true method.
 
replicaracer43 said:
No, the factory coupler allows for some angle, and a u joint can be angled more, but the factory coupler also allows a bit of in/out "plunge" to accommodate body and chassis flex. A solid u joint eliminates that feature, and the steering shaft has a c clip on each side of the upper bearing, which is retaind in the column, so any flexibility in the chassis will be transferred right to that small bearing. Not good.
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That’s true, and I agree that a solid coupler isn’t ideal. However, remember that the stock steering shaft has a collapsible section in it too, held together with those plastics pins from tha factory. I would bet the guys that have gone to solid couplers would find those pins broken and the steering shaft slipping back and forth at that location some. So, not all the load would likely be transmitted to the bearing. Not how it’s supposed to work, but I bet that would be what happens. The factory coupler moves easier than the collapsible steering shaft so the pins stay intact. Without it, those pins would probably shear at some point and the shaft would slip there.


cudaracer said:
Thanks for the info. That makes a lot of sense. I will just rebuild the column and live with the vehicle as is, a flex-flyer that can never be as good as a modern basic car, let alone a performance car.
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Well you sure gave up fast. There are ways around dealing with the plunge in the coupler problem. But if you’re not willing to try harder than that maybe you should leave the coupler alone. The coupler itself is not a piece that causes huge problems if it’s rebuilt and in good condition.


clifftt said:
What if you have reduced the chassis flex? I have frame connectors welded to my floors. Anyone using a u-joint with frame connectors instead of the original coupler?
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You still don’t have zero chassis flex. Reducing the chassis flex with frame connectors doesn’t solve the part that effects the coupler either. The flex from the firewall to the K frame is the issue. So, shock tower to firewall braces like US Cartool makes, or J-bars, would be what you want. That’s a location that the chassis is kinda flexy anyway, because unlike cars with coils springs the suspension loads aren’t carried there in torsion bar cars. So, that area isn’t super stiff in Mopars with torsion bars because it didn’t have to carry a large vertical component of the suspension load.

My solution was a slip joint from a more modern steering shaft design, but it does involve some skilled work to get it done.
 
cudaracer said:
I want what we all really want, an upgrade to a sloppy factory unit, that does not compromise on durability or safety.
Duh ;)
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And factory unit in good shape, has no slop, and is in fact way more durable than any aftermarket u joint.
 
This guy has a great video (4 count) that shows complete steering shaft rebuilding (disassembly, upgrade and re-assembly) including site links for purchase.

 
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