OK to remove steering linkage to remove starter?

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Chained_360

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So I'm trying to remove the starter on my 1968 Barracuda, and the rusty-*** set of hooker headers are in the way among other things. I have the starter unbolted, but it is physically trapped in a cage of exhaust and suspension, so I cannot remove it. I am wondering if it is OK for a newbie like me to remove the arm that connects the steering box to the actual steering arms? it just looks like two nuts and a cotter pin. If I keep everything marked (for alignment), is this an okay thing to do? It would give me room (hopefully) to remove the starter and insert a new one.

And YES, I am replacing it with a high-torque mini starter :)
 
whew - I doubt it will help... better off to loosen the header from the head or lift the engine some.. I have never read a process where it was suggested that the steering be disengaged to remove/install a starter...
 
I've unbolted the header but I'm having trouble pulling it off the studs. If I can cut about a quarter inch off the rear stud, then I can remove it, but I can't get a grinder to the stud. These headers are a HUGE pain in the ***. They're routed extremely screwy and don't have much wiggle room.
 
humm... I would hesitate to grind on that stud too - that stud MIGHT come out.. lots of PB Blaster and possibly some heat... you can't get the header and exhaust disconnected? - if you can, pictures always help -
 
I have the header completely disconnected, but I can't pull it because of the stud :(
How would you suggest I remove the stud? I have PB and a blowtorch, but would I put visegrips to it? there's no hex in the stud and it would probably destroy the threads.

Lemme get a picture of the situation
 
yes - vise grips - studs are easy to get - what you DON"T want to do is FUBAR the threads in the head.. maybe someone else will weigh in here, I am headed out - - I will try to check back in later on.. a word of caution: if it seems like whatever you are trying isn't working - it's probably not - - be careful!
 
Alright, thanks for the help. I'll see what I can do about that stud (gently). Have a good one!
 
Be better off to loosen up the motor mounts and jack the engine up a little, because for one it would be easier and for two it wont destroy your grease boots on the steering joints.
Also, have you tried turning your steering all the way one way or the other and see if it comes out?
 
Take the header loose, it may wiggle out.
What trans do you have, if its a 727 you may have to loosen it up and slide it back.
 
It's a 904, and I've wrestled with the header for a while, no luck. I have a couple ideas that involve steering, but I'm still a little stumped
 
It's a 904, and I've wrestled with the header for a while, no luck. I have a couple ideas that involve steering, but I'm still a little stumped

Reach in there with a sawsall and cut it up into sections. :D

I'm kidding.
 
If your talking the pitman arm why not? You can borrow the puller free from most auto parts places. Hard to dick it up it can only go on one way. Feel your pain my mini starter is tight also and went with bolts last time it was out.
 
Yes, the Pitman Arm! I couldn't remember the name (probably because I've never seen one before :rolleyes:). So it wouldn't mess anything up?
 
So I'm trying to remove the starter on my 1968 Barracuda, and the rusty-*** set of hooker headers are in the way among other things. I have the starter unbolted, but it is physically trapped in a cage of exhaust and suspension, so I cannot remove it. I am wondering if it is OK for a newbie like me to remove the arm that connects the steering box to the actual steering arms? it just looks like two nuts and a cotter pin. If I keep everything marked (for alignment), is this an okay thing to do? It would give me room (hopefully) to remove the starter and insert a new one.

And YES, I am replacing it with a high-torque mini starter :)

Well, I have a feeling it WILL come out without unhooking anything, easy? NO.

I can get my OEM starter out and back in without undoing anything, you just have to up end it and work it through the maze.
 
Well, I have a feeling it WILL come out without unhooking anything, easy? NO.

I can get my OEM starter out and back in without undoing anything, you just have to up end it and work it through the maze.
I can work it through the maze, but there's no exit :( That's why I wanna pull the pitman arm, to create one
 
Nope only goes on one way and if you mess up the grease boot .69 or so, just tork it down to specs when you re-install it. FYI if it is power steering and leaking good time to change the seal there pretty easy also.
 
I can work it through the maze, but there's no exit :( That's why I wanna pull the pitman arm, to create one

I was able to get mine through the small area right below the starter, it's kinda like a puzzle, and you have to turn, and tumble the dern starter around, but it should come out.....barely....but it should.

IF I remember correctly I had to turn the steering one way or the other to get the center link to move forward a bit.
 
Probably not the same, but on my 72 dart, I yanked the steering column and snaked the starter up the firewall and out from under the master cylinder.

New mini starter from a Magnum truck went right back in the same place with no trouble.
 
You can double nut that stud and back it out using the inside nut! Of course water will come pouring out if it's the outside stud, as they go into the water jackets!! Don't panic, it's typical!!
 
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I was under the impression this was an OEM starter that needs to come out so a mini can go in - that OEM piece ain't coming out of there with header in there.. there's barely room for a mini. My idea was that the header needs to be completely loose - as in not on the head and disconnected from the rest of the exhaust too. I forgot that that stud is water passage... what Phreakish is saying is interesting and frankly, a surprise, but if it is doable - then why not!? If going with out from under car method, do what you have to do to get the header loose, the steering is turned to the left for max clearance and you still may have to disconnect the steering linkage... again, assuming I am reading the dilemma correctly and the starter is an OEM piece.
 
No, the current starter is also a mini (sorry, I should've been clearer), which makes it that much more frustrating - it's supposed to fit better. I have no problem pulling the exhaust stud out, the cooling system is already opened (pulling out your engine temp sensor will proceed to spew coolant all over your engine compartment, who knew...), so losing a little more coolant won't hurt much. I can just get two nuts and clamp them down on eachother and then pull the stud out with the inner nut.
 
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