OK to remove steering linkage to remove starter?

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Bad Sport said:
How come mine does, I run the cheap Summit headers, and I can get mine in and out without loosening or removing anything.
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you're lucky I guess - I can barely get a mini in/out on mine (71 Scamp) - not a fat chance in hell of an OEM starter going in there (not that I would even consider it anyway)
 
Chained_360 said:
No, the current starter is also a mini (sorry, I should've been clearer), which makes it that much more frustrating - it's supposed to fit better. I have no problem pulling the exhaust stud out, the cooling system is already opened (pulling out your engine temp sensor will proceed to spew coolant all over your engine compartment, who knew...), so losing a little more coolant won't hurt much. I can just get two nuts and clamp them down on eachother and then pull the stud out with the inner nut.
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humm.. not all mini's are created equal - you might have to remove the wire connector studs.. some of them have a "remote" hook up point for the wires.. New Mini Mopar Dodge Plymouth Starter Super Torque | eBay -- hard to tell by looking at it but this one is an example of what I am talking about - the wire connector studs are "remote" and the piece comes off by disconnecting from the body underneath the plastic cap to the left in pic 3.. again, pics of what you are up against would be helpful here.
--you will end up with this in your hand
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- once done, the starter will come out very easily
 
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TrailBeast said:
Be better off to loosen up the motor mounts and jack the engine up a little, because for one it would be easier and for two it wont destroy your grease boots on the steering joints.
Also, have you tried turning your steering all the way one way or the other and see if it comes out?
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OP -- Did you try this? takes less than 60 seconds to loosen the driver side motor mount (1 nut), raise the motor a little using a jack on the oil pan favoring the drivers side of the motor (board between the jack and pan).
 
I have not tried jacking the engine up, but I do have the means to do so. Let me upload some pictures, I've been spacing it out for too long
 
Okay, here's some pictures of what I'm dealing with. They're kinda crappy because smartphone cameras don't play nice with confined spaces, but here they are:
You can see how the transmission cooler lines nicely are in the way (and I can't get a wrench on one of the fittings, so that's out of the question), and how the headers trap the starter. The last picture (poorly) shows how the pitman arm might create a gap for the starter if removed.

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That looks like a quagmire, I too thought we were talking about a regular starter.
 
those trans line will move some without hurting anything - a little force without reefing on them.. add some bend so to speak.. did you get the exhaust stud out? Also, what about getting the header disconnected from the rest of the exhaust system..? I really think that if you get that header loose you'll have better results..
 
Do you have the 5116 super comps, or the "street" headers???

I thik that you have to loosen the header from the pipes and at the head, then jack up the engine off the mounts a little to be able to wiggle it out of there....

If you have to, drop the center link out of the way, you can get new boots at most parts stores. Autozone has a set of red poly ones in the performance aisle - we bought some this week....
 
I haven't done any work yet, I've been busy the past couple days. I really appreciate all of the help though! I'm confident that I'll be able to get it out now, it's just a matter of actually doing it :)
I'll update you guys again when I get the chance. Thanks!
 
It's out! I won! I didn't even have to mess with the header, I simply cranked the steering all the way to the left and it created a perfect opening. ScampMike, you were totally correct about removing that extension module from the starter, it would've taken me a while to figure that out myself. Thank you guys so much for the help!
 
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