Old Car Squeaks, Rattles and Groans

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dgc333

dgc333

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I throughly enjoy driving my 68 Barracuda and the one thing that would make it more enjoyable is to get some of the squeaks and rattles out of it.

I don't have an issue on smooth roads but bumps and rough roads brings them out. I was wondering if anyone had any tricks to tracking them down.

I get a metallic clang under the dash on the passenger side. I have had the glove box out and nothing seems to be loose with the heater box (new heater core that is secure inside the box).

Then both doors rattle over bumps. Seems to be inside but I have had the door panels off and the window mechanisms seem to be tight. I also get one from inside the drivers side quarter again the window mechanism seems tight.

The suspension front and rear has been rebuilt none of the exhaust is hitting anything and the noises definately sound like the are coming from the areas noted. I have sum frame connectors so the body structure seems solid (I will be adding torque box braces this winter).

If I hit a sharp edge bump the rattle under the dash seems to be first followed by the passenger door then in the rear quarter and drivers door.

Any tips, hints or ideas would be appreciated.
 
I fixed mine by putting a louder exhaust system on, LOL. Seriously though, I have been trying to chase mine down also and I have come to the conclusion that is just to be expected from a 30 - 40 year old car unless every part is gone through, changed or restored.

Chuck
 
Same deal here. I installed 3 amps for the front, rear deck and sub woffer to drown out the world.


OK, seriously. It will have to all come down and reinstalled once you poke and prod around. It is really the only way to do it. Once you find the noise maker, it's ethier replaceing the clip/washer/nut/whatever it is and buttoning it back up.

I'm going through this on My Magnum now. And what happens now? Things break, clips bend and I take a trip to the dealer. It is a bummer owning a older car when your trying to hammer out the oldness of it.

Once it's done, it'll probably just simply strat over again after awhile.
 
i did my car from a bare shell and knew where some were coming from. i too have one in my door. before i restored it, it was the little slightly u-shaped clip that the armrest screws into. now that an armrest is on there, its gone to something else. my lower valance just started rattling( probably the savage shake of the cam). when you put it back together , use loctite as much as possible. i am still hunting down more. the worst one is the electric fuel pump that got nailed by the rear end and is now vibrating against the floor in the rear. it just happened after hitting a HUGE bump on the freeway but i'll fix it sometime.
 
Aren't those squeaks and rattles a wonderful sound? They are the character of an old car. Just like the squeeky floors in my allmost 100 year old house.
When I used to work at a GM dealer before I became a Mac Tool Distributor,
I Spent many hours with the new car setup tech. on the bumpiest streets in town looking for squeaks and rattles in new Buicks in the late to mid 70's.
(those cars were the worst) Find a friend that understands how things work and have him ride along. move and press to change the noise to locate it. Allmost all noises are caused by something loose or something that needs insulated from another part. Use foam sheets, spray foam,and strip caulk.
You may have creaks from broken pinch welds. You may have to drill a hole and install a screw or bolt/nut to stop it. Use WD-40 to locate the sweak. It may not remove it forever but if it goes away after you spray you've found
it. Kust figure out how to remove it permanently! If you need more help, you
can e-mail me. I may not know the particulars of your cars construction but I may be of some help! [email protected]
 
Thanks guys. I will keep after it. The one under the dash bopthers me the most. I will concentrate on that one this winter but stripping out the heater box and see what I can find.
 
The dash has a channel along the bottom that a bolt or screw can lay in. The flasher that should be in a clip on ashtray hanger might be laying in this channel too. The rubber bumpers at glove box door and ashtray door are a must.
Now the doors... The window regulaters get loose motion in the bearings behind the winder handle. I use bearing assemblies from rear doors of 4 door cars to restore those. If you have to push the button on the outer door handle a long way before the latch pops that is adjustable through a hole drilled in the door edge with a long allen wrench (1/8" I think). That adjustment will cure a rattle too. Loosen the screw and allow the springs to move the parts then retighten and done. The 67 model has a long phillips head screw through the painted portion of the inner door where the 68 model has a small plastic plug in that hole. The screw is stll there, just redesigned and I was told once that a rattle came from those by a guy that worked for a Chrysler dealer in Ohio. He taught me soooo much about my car.
I have to add that hotrod stuff like a cam will shake a car apart just like a Harley motor cycle. Owners of those know why it came with a small tool kit.
Same reason those old Jeep CJs had very little interior or door parts to shake apart.
My 67 notchback (here I go bragging) has one noise. The passengers seatbelt buckle will tap against the side of the console when wife leaves it there. I brush it to the center of the seat to cure. Guess I should add you'll hardly hear or tell the 273 is running and it might spin a tire if you kick it around a corner. Hope some of this helps.
 
Redfish! Thanks, some great tips. I am printing this and taking it to the garage.
 
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