Old man with old car, new here with questions

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slantsixdan said:
Yes, a Holley 1920 or Carter BBS carb intended for a 225 will work just fine on the 170 (…is part of the reason why I pointed you at the particular, specific carb I pointed you at). The factory started using the larger ("225-sized") carb on the 170 in 1967, which raised the 170's published horsepower from 101 to 115.



OK, if the engine temp gauge works correctly but the fuel gauge doesn't, that's probably a faulty sender or sunk sender float, but could also just be a rusted sender ground clip—that's a metal strap that bridges from the sender outlet pipe to the metal fuel line running to the front of the car; the system's supposed to ground through the fuel line-to-body attachment, but sounds like your car is very rusty underneath so there may not be an adequate ground. You may need to make and attach a new ground wire to the sender plate and run the other end of the wire to a good ground. Repair parts, see here.



That is very good news; the '60-'61 tanks are nigh on impossible to find.
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Really good news on the carbs, Gives me a much better selection and pricing. I learned a lot today. Great!!
 
slantsixdan said:
Check your Private Messages on here.



Wow, power brakes are even rarer than power steering. You'll want to be aware of Booster Dewey for if/when your power brake booster or other components need repair.



Careful, there—see here.



Diagnosis: does the engine temperature gauge work, or is that dead, too?



Cable will certainly need lubed, and the speedo head itself very well may need rebuilt; see here.



Power for that choke heater needs to go through a choke modulator, or you'll have driveability problems as the choke will kick off too quickly. This '73+ factory setup is problematic even in intended configuration on intended cars; you're better off putting in a № 1231 electric choke kit instead.



There's nothing last-resort about it; the carbs were getting better and better year by year, and the '63 carbs had solved a whole lot of teething problems with the '60-'61 units. In your shoes I would go snap up this 1963 Valiant/Dart Holley 1920. It'll drop right on and everything will hook up; the only difference is the fuel inlet is on the side instead of the front. Good excuse to do the Fuel line mod.
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We'll Dan I ordered the carb you recommended. I will figure out the fuel line move. Hank
 
383Duster said:
Welcome from Texas
Nice car and wheel cribs...
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Thank you.The car needs help but it's just another challenge in life. I found the idea for the cribs on Utube. I was wondering how to get the vehicle higher for scraping and other work and found these. Very easy and cheap to make. Sturdy as well.
 
Hank Humme said:
Rusty, I read some of your site. I will check out more later. Right now I had problems finding out how to start my own thread. I got on the welcome site to get started. I'll get it going. Good people with no smart aleck remarks is a great thing.
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There'll be plenty of that along the way. Just know that it's meant in the best way possible. Lots of people nowadays like to be the victim and act like snowflakes. This is a car site after all and we're car people.
 
RustyRatRod said:
There'll be plenty of that along the way. Just know that it's meant in the best way possible. Lots of people nowadays like to be the victim and act like snowflakes. This is a car site after all and we're car people.
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I am a car person. I am used to all forms of communication. I was raised in mid Chicago. Drag racing by the Merchandise Mart in 1958 was the start of street racing for me. I like banter and disagreement but not insulting people who try hard and need help. I kicked butt and took names but tried to also show respect for others. Hank
 
welcome aboard from down under i love the early A bodies but we only got the 61 model for 300 cars then the 62 for 12 months as ckd cars(complete knocked down) meaning full assembly here and local content on interior, battery and tyres. all ours were 225 cu in
we have had quite a number of earlier ones privately imported, but parts are very scarce even getting thart way for later models as well
 
peedee said:
welcome aboard from down under i love the early A bodies but we only got the 61 model for 300 cars then the 62 for 12 months as ckd cars(complete knocked down) meaning full assembly here and local content on interior, battery and tyres. all ours were 225 cu in
we have had quite a number of earlier ones privately imported, but parts are very scarce even getting thart way for later models as well
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Thank you. I have also found out that the parts are very difficult to get. Worst one to find so far is the gas tank. I am grateful that so far that is good.
 
Hank Humme said:
I am a car person. I am used to all forms of communication. I was raised in mid Chicago. Drag racing by the Merchandise Mart in 1958 was the start of street racing for me. I like banter and disagreement but not insulting people who try hard and need help. I kicked butt and took names but tried to also show respect for others. Hank
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There you go. You'll fit in just fine. Lots of times I'm rough around the edges......but 99.9% or more of the time it's tongue in cheek.
 
slantsixdan said:
Check your Private Messages on here.



Wow, power brakes are even rarer than power steering. You'll want to be aware of Booster Dewey for if/when your power brake booster or other components need repair.



Careful, there—see here.



Diagnosis: does the engine temperature gauge work, or is that dead, too?



Cable will certainly need lubed, and the speedo head itself very well may need rebuilt; see here.



Power for that choke heater needs to go through a choke modulator, or you'll have driveability problems as the choke will kick off too quickly. This '73+ factory setup is problematic even in intended configuration on intended cars; you're better off putting in a № 1231 electric choke kit instead.



There's nothing last-resort about it; the carbs were getting better and better year by year, and the '63 carbs had solved a whole lot of teething problems with the '60-'61 units. In your shoes I would go snap up this 1963 Valiant/Dart Holley 1920. It'll drop right on and everything will hook up; the only difference is the fuel inlet is on the side instead of the front. Good excuse to do the Fuel line mod.
Click to expand...
 
Hello Dan, I received the carb listed on Ebay that you told me about. Cleaned, adjusted brackets and mounted it. I am also changing the fuel line per your write up. Top line fuel injection hose, the inverted flare connector, fuel injection clamps and metal fuel filter etc. I am waiting for the 90 degree swivel connector to connect to the new fuel pump.
I am having a problem finding the proper bushing that connects the throttle rod to the carb. Some pictures show them as one piece. The only one I am finding is a rubber grommet with insert for the first opening of the rod.
Is there an alternate method to hook it up??? Thanks, Hank
 
Sounds like good progress. That bushing is a special piece for this application. There is only one type. It's available as Gary Goers № 415 from QQDC.
 
slantsixdan said:
Sounds like good progress. That bushing is a special piece for this application. There is only one type. It's available as Gary Goers № 415 from QQDC.
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Dan, I received the bushing. It was a perfect fit. I used all of your suggestions from the thread and one of your earlier threads. A few pictures of what I have done on the fuel system and a question!!!! The Carburetor, fuel hose, clamps, fittings were your ideas and worked excellent. I replaced the fuel level sender, new wires ( they had no ground on the sender ) and new short hoses. I removed the tank, the tank needed a large dent taken out of the bottom and then I scraped with an oscillating scraper, brushed with a wire wheel to take off as much of the old "Ziebart" as possible and then added 2 coats of rust reformer. The interior of the tank was in very good condition and had been coated at some time.

I need to either find a new fuel filler grommet for this tank or seal the hose they inserted earlier. It looks like they used a reducer hose and forced it into the tank opening. They also cut a little off the filler tube. Any suggestions on a place to get a grommet or thoughts on a fix??? This would finish off the fuel system!!!
Thank you, Hank

I am also working on other projects at the same time to get further along while I wait for parts etc. Two new windows on the drivers side, transmission gasket and filter, brakes, door lock, lube speedo cable, dash lights, on and on.
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Welcome!!!! Wife and I have a 62 Laner, she claims it, but I have to build it, go figure. Looks like yo have a great project going.
I lived in Mo for 37 years. The Show-me state!!! When I moved there I told them, I as smarter than some, just show me once and I will have it!! Yea right!!
 
barbee6043 said:
Welcome!!!! Wife and I have a 62 Laner, she claims it, but I have to build it, go figure. Looks like yo have a great project going.
I lived in Mo for 37 years. The Show-me state!!! When I moved there I told them, I as smarter than some, just show me once and I will have it!! Yea right!!
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Well we moved here in 2012 to help my wife's brother and sister. They both had the nerve to die on us and they left us here alone. The nerve of some people. Sounds like your having a little fun as well. It normally is about our wife's. Good fortune to you.
 
Nice work, onward and upward. Still some choke work to do, looks like. Where does your hose run that you've got connected to the large nipple just ahead of the driver-side carb hold down nut?
 
slantsixdan said:
Nice work, onward and upward. Still some choke work to do, looks like. Where does your hose run that you've got connected to the large nipple just ahead of the driver-side carb hold down nut?
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Hi Dan, the hose vacuum line at the carb base is connected to the inside of the dash, I have not checked where it goes but I believe it is for the heater system. The vacuum line on the other side of the carb goes to the distributor vacuum advance. The power brake booster comes directly off the intake manifold and then tees into a vacuum tank located in the front drivers wheel well.
I will have to trace the line and also do a vacuum leak test.

I have ordered a voltage reducer for the divorced choke that can take me from 0 to 11 volts. It is an experiment for me. The cost was $6. I believe I can control the speed at which the choke opens.

The question I have to finish the fuel system off is to find a grommet for the fuel fill line to the tank. Presently they used a hose that reduces down but it leaks. They also cut off a small piece of the metal fill line. This is what happens when we want challenges in life. Since I still have it sitting on cribs I need to finish the trans first. Hank
 
Hank Humme said:
Hi Dan, the hose vacuum line at the carb base is connected to the inside of the dash
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Whoah-whoah-whoah. That's wrong. The heater vacuum hose is meant to connect to a fitting on the № 6 (rearmost) intake manifold runner. That carb fitting is for your PCV. Can't tell from these pics, but perhaps your '62 was neither a California nor a New York car, and has the old road draft tube instead of PCV, in which case see here.

The power brake booster comes directly off the intake manifold and then tees into a vacuum tank located in the front drivers wheel well.
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That's correct—if your manifold fitting has only one large nipple for the power brake hose, and doesn't have a small nipple for the heater vacuum hose, you'll want to either get a fitting that has both sizes or tee off the large hose connected to the intake manifold.

I have ordered a voltage reducer for the divorced choke
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Interesting idea. Can you point us at what you bought?

The question I have to finish the fuel system off is to find a grommet for the fuel fill line to the tank.
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The '62 cars didn't use a grommet like the '63-'66 cars. They used an O-ring, part № 2073 938 (buy one here) and a rubber-over-steel seal plate № 2242 359 (buy here). Starting in '63 the rubber-over-steel plate is the same, but the O-ring was replaced by a sturdier grommet № 2203 473. I don't know whether or how easily one could upgrade to the '63+ grommet, but if you want to try, you can buy one here.

They also cut off a small piece of the metal fill line.
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Ugh. When repairing this, make sure to route the vent line correctly. It needs to rise way up high, then make a U-turn and head back down and out through the trunk floor. If no high U-turn, you'll piss gasoline out the vent.
 
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