? on torque converters

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whitey

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OK, which converter should I use from Mopar Performance? The 145K = 1900-2100 stall, the 166K - 2250-2350 stall, or the 175 = 2400-2500 stall.
I have 3.73 gears in an 8.75 sure Grip. 24.75" dia BFG's. A 727 with a TF-2 shift kit in a 73 Dart roughly 3200-3300 lbs. I don't know how much hp my 360 will put out yet. Oh, I won't be dragging this car it's just for on the street and some highway.

OR...does anyone know what the stock stall for a 360 is?
 
You need to provided the engine info for a suggestion on the converter.
Answer these questions on the 360.

Comp. ratio
intake
carb size
cam specs. (@.050 if you can, centerline and lift. Hyd, Mech. or roller.)
Headers or not
What heads, valve size and if there port or not and to what extent there ported.
 
’87 360 block bored +.030 / 9.6 CR (Internal Balanced)
MPP 340 Hyd cam (268/276 adv 228/[email protected]; 44 Olap, 114 c-line .429/.444 lift)
Magnum head - retrofitted (stock valves)
Prof. Products Crosswind Intake (Eddie airgap copy)
TTI headers; TTI 2-1/2” dual exhaust with an X-pipe
Holley Street Avenger 670 CFM
727 Trans / TransGo TF-2 Shift Kit

Thanks Guys
 
The stall TCI recomended (1900 - 2100) sounds like a stock HP set up or a tad higher. The 3000 stall sounds high to me, but would get you off the line in a hurry for sure.
Being it's a driver, 3000 sounds a bit much IMO. (But I'm a 4spd guy.)
If the converter is very effiecnt, the 3000 stall would not seem like the car has nothing at lower speeds.

You allready have 3.73 gears and a smallish tire. If it were me, I'd follow the TCI suggestion. Your gonna lay down some rubber with the 360 w/340 parts & Magnum heads. Torque will not be an issue.

I'll be going the same engine route later.
 
My 360 build is very similar to yours, except I have more cam, and I plan on using the MP175K converter. From the research I've done, it seems to be a fairly decent converter for a mainly street machine with specs in your range. There are much better and probably more versatile converters available, but for my little street machine, I don't plan on spending nearly a thousand bucks for a converter. :)
 
Just for what it's worth. Member DJV Cuda ran a MP converter and switched to a Dyanmic. Before the MP he was slipping...a lot. Say for instance.

He was turning 2500rpm at 60mph with the MP, with the new converter he was at 70mph for 2500rpm. So he was slipping 10mph away at all times cruising...just something to consider.
 
I would not run any off the shelf convertor, been there done that. I would purchase a purpose built for your application convertor from Dynamic, Coan, ATI, etc, they are worth the added cost.

Chuck
 
i wouldn't run any of those MP convertors... like goody said djv was running one of their 175K i think it was.. man was inefficient. he bought a dynamic convertor after comparing it to my car and he dropped 400 rpm at cruising and gained stahl at the track... you get what you pay for with convertors... a good one matched to your combo is an incredible difference. not only at the track but all the way around... give dynamic's or ptc a call and talk it over with them. thy are two good convertor companies that will built you one to match your combo.... i know goody,djv and myself are all running a dynamic 9 1/2" convertor matched to our combo.... just make sure you are totally honest about your combo,intended use and weight of your car. if not it won't perform like you want nomatter who builds it for you....
 
Referencing Rumble Fish's post about too high a stall, is it possible he had too high a stall TC?

Has anybody had a problem with Mancini's converters?
 
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