One wheel turns easy left and right/ other side not easy

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dodge freak

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Replacing all the tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm on my 79 Magnum. Darn thing would move around on bumpy roads. Haven't drove it yet but two tie rods seemed LOOSE so thinking I'm good now.

But with the center link out, one side turns easy left and right and the other side I had to use both hands and still it was hard to turn. Is that normal? One upper control arm is aftermarket--should change both but $175 apiece ouch. It has power steering and the steering wheel turns fine and rebounds after a turn.

I should take it to a shop so they can pry on the wheels to check the ball joints..do the lower control arms have bushings that wear out like the uppers? The stock upper arm does have newer bushings and ball joint, why its still there. The other side crack so I changed it.
 
If you mean turning the wheels from stop to stop. I would say that the
ball joints are very tight on that side. Thats the next things you will have
to replace. It would be best in the long run to replace the ball joints on
both sides at the same time. Good luck and let us know how it's going.
 
Nice.

Its on the stock control arm side. Guess I be changing that side out and hope its the upper. Both lowers were changed over 10 years ago. I know stuff wears out.

The inside tread of that side tire keeps wearing out. I gotta put some more $$$ on that side and change both upper and lower ball joints..its always something it seems.
 
If I read you right-you have the center link out and one side turns easy and one hard? I bet the driver side is the hard one?
 
Yep its the drivers-left side that is hard-- WHY:read2:

Its all back together, changed all 4 tie rods and the pit man arm and idler arm. Got the stuff off ebay over the winter, half price and all nos US made parts from the 90's and 80's..all Moog expect idler arm, nos mopar--old stuff...before mexico and china invade our parts counter.

Yeah with both outer tie rods off the drivers side was turn able but had to use both hands and PULL...Pass side was an easy one hand.

Both upper balls have 2-3 seasons but the lowers ball joints are from the 90's.
 
Update:

Car steering feels much tighter, the steering box has been changed 5 years back. Awesome now how crisp it feels. However it still wander on bumps. Seems the toe was off, feels better now with a minor adjustment.

Order the SPC control arm and new upper ball joint. Wheel did move a tad up on top. Other side with the 3 year old SPC arm was tight. I'm hopping the upper ball joint is the tight one. Lowers seem tight but did not pry with a long bar on them. Summit had to order the arm I get it within two weeks. If easy enough I like to put 2 new lower joints in for good measure--even it they seem good.

Fun driving around in 30 degree weather. No overheating problems for sure--no motorcycles on the road either:burnout:
 
dodge freak said:
Update:

Car steering feels much tighter, the steering box has been changed 5 years back. Awesome now how crisp it feels. However it still wander on bumps. Seems the toe was off, feels better now with a minor adjustment.

Order the SPC control arm and new upper ball joint. Wheel did move a tad up on top. Other side with the 3 year old SPC arm was tight. I'm hopping the upper ball joint is the tight one. Lowers seem tight but did not pry with a long bar on them. Summit had to order the arm I get it within two weeks. If easy enough I like to put 2 new lower joints in for good measure--even it they seem good.

Fun driving around in 30 degree weather. No overheating problems for sure--no motorcycles on the road either:burnout:
Click to expand...

Sounds like a bump steer issue. Check it by working the suspension through it's travel and measuring the ends of a couple of sticks hung horizontally on the outside of the tires. Easy enough to do on a Mopar by backing off the torsion bars and having the car jacked up. The fix is shimming the steering box bolts and slotting the idler arm bolt mounting holes to move the relay rod (GM term, sorry) up or down until you've minimized it. Don't forget to at least tack the idler arm bolt washers to the bracket to hold the setting after you've found it.

Lack of caster can contribute to wander. A bodies with stock upper arms and bushings are noted for a lack of caster, could be a problem with your B body too. Moog sells offset upper bushings that will help you get a little more set in. Not unusual for the caster not to be the same side to side either and they can help that too. Last ones I bought cost me about double compared to the regular ones. Not as affective as tubular uppers (most tubular arms have about 4-5 degrees built in) perhaps, but a lot cheaper to try.
 
twofosho said:
Sounds like a bump steer issue. Check it by working the suspension through it's travel and measuring the ends of a couple of sticks hung horizontally on the outside of the tires. Easy enough to do on a Mopar by backing off the torsion bars and having the car jacked up. The fix is shimming the steering box bolts and slotting the idler arm bolt mounting holes to move the relay rod (GM term, sorry) up or down until you've minimized it. Don't forget to at least tack the idler arm bolt washers to the bracket to hold the setting after you've found it.

Lack of caster can contribute to wander. A bodies with stock upper arms and bushings are noted for a lack of caster, could be a problem with your B body too. Moog sells offset upper bushings that will help you get a little more set in. Not unusual for the caster not to be the same side to side either and they can help that too. Last ones I bought cost me about double compared to the regular ones. Not as affective as tubular uppers (most tubular arms have about 4-5 degrees built in) perhaps, but a lot cheaper to try.
Click to expand...

Agree, wander is caster; bump steer is hitting large bumps. Or a wheelie.
 
Well I have the one upper SPC arm already and it fits great and is super easy to adjust just where you like it. It also is still rock solid tight and only 6 months newer then my rebuilt stock pos upper arm. I say pos cause it got new rubber bushings-that still look great and a new ball joint-moog. The other arm crack and rip the ball joint out a bit--yeah a little rust and wasn't made to last 35 years.

I found this link pretty cool

Caster, Camber, Toe

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
 
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