Local open car hauler manufacturer is having a sale on their trailers for 2 weeks only. I've been eyeing up a 18' full deck steel trailer with 5000lb axles.
The dealer told me for $400 more I could get a custom built 20'. And for $800 more (compared to the 18') I could get a 22' deck trailer. So it got me thinking what to buy.... Which length will retain its value and be most popular choice as a full deck open hauler? Feel free leave a comment as to why and what you would choose. Thanks!!
I don't recall how long the deck is on my old, heavy, -channel open trailer at the moment because it's stored elsewhere. But I did haul a Challenger and Dart Sport on it for many years. I believe the rear bumpers overhung the back by a foot or two and there was exposed deck up front to walk around with the car on it. However, I have a few suggestions/ideas you might want to consider.
* The 5000lb axles with a good idea. My trailer has 5,000lb axles with 235-15 radials but I considered them just "adequate" after the fact. I traveled
A LOT and thought 15" tire life could have been better. Consider 16" wheels to fit your bolt pattern if you don't go to the 6,000 axle combo. Axle bearings lasted longer once I switched to Amsoil's best synthetic grease. I prefer things to be bigger/better/higher rated than the max they will be used for. I was a little short on the tire/axle combo. But my trailer was a lot heavier than most.
* Extra weight was added to the trailer with a 6'x2'x2' construction site tool box with a little, full width storage bin inside. It helped to organize a lot of the usual plus extra stuff I wanted to carry while reducing clutter in the truck. They usually have extra secure padlock recesses and the top serves as a convenient table when working on the engine. (Just gotta check for wasp nests in the padlock recesses periodically.) Tool box also acts a barrier to some bugs & road debris. I protected the tool box corners with thin diamond plate. I also closed up the trailer tongue "V" with an aluminum 3/16" floor to walk on or carry some smaller stuff on.
* Because I didn't have a garage, I had the trailer built higher up with a partially open middle so I could get underneath and do some regular servicing. i even changed transmissions and center sections on the trailer using boards on the axles for the floor jack and to slide the trans down to the ground under the trailer. (Not easy!) You can incorporate a dovetail to drive on while keeping the middle section flat to just forward of the rear end to allow a place to drop the center section and floor jack to jack the car the car up. Measure trailer floor widths carefully to allow convenient placement of floor jacks. (I forgot to get measurements to accommodate jacking up the front end on my trailer conveniently. But I got by.) The down -side of the trailer deck being higher is possibly needing ramp extensions for lower cars or deeper oil pans. The up-side is a higher deck provides more door clearance with the car on the trailer which may eliminate the need for removable fenders.
Consider 2 spare tires. But I traveled far and am over-cautious.)
I probably added a 3000+ dollars of customizing to a trailer cost but I'm just throwing out some ideas that might be worth considering and prioritizing accordingly. I guess the sale applies to existing trailers?
Good luck!
