Operation Torquey-Pig

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A little close up action of the complex reality of the hydraulic roller lifter bores. (A little side note: This block has yet to be cleaned but was wiped down after disassembly with a mixture of STP & Moly wheel bearing grease. I think it may be the best preservative I’ve ever seen. Wear gloves because hand cleaner will not touch it, I had to wash my hands with brake kleen) It would be easier to mass produce a steel top plate that runs front to rear and bolts in through the China walls to duplicate this. Add in the costs of bushing the lifter bores and I'll quote my friend’s advice to me with family matters : “Good Luck With All That”...

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gzig5 said:
That is at the lifter/lobe or at the valve after multiplication by the rocker? I'm thinking the former? Haven't seen too many .750 lift hydraulics.
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At the valve. Rarely do you use the cam lobe dimension.
 
toolmanmike said:
At the valve. Rarely do you use the cam lobe dimension.
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I agree, but when we are talking about different lifters exposing oil bands and such, it is the direct lift at the the lobe causing it. That is how I think about it to take rocker ratios out of the equation. I'm probably weird that way. Thanks.

I asked because I'm trying to decide whether to pursue a magnum or roller LA block for a build instead of standard LA. If the stock lifter gear could support the cam I plan to run, that saves a pretty penny to put elsewhere in the build. Sounds like it might not be a bad idea just from the taller lifter bore, though I haven't seen a dimension applied to that. Like most things I'm pretty sure I'm overthinking it, but I gotta keep the brain busy.
 
CHRYSLER 5.9L/360 Mopar small block LA Camshafts - Hydraulic roller tappet Cam Style - 0.548 int./0.558 exh. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
The outer limit of hydraulic roller cams. What I want to know is if the .200 duration figures are different enough to make it worth the cash outlay. In comparison to the regular hydraulic flat tappets the .050 lift duration numbers are unremarkable. I'll PM Wyrmrider and see what he has to say. I do wonder if you'd be able to run solid roller lifters on a hydraulic flat tappet. I've known of it being done with flat tappets but figuring out where to set the valve lash might be problematic, to say the least.
 
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If using a roller, a custom solid would also be the route I’d take. If going with a hydraulic roller, this build would make very good use of a Jones made to order cam @Wyrmrider
 
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He relayed some info back to me about the flank limits of the hydraulic roller and said that with the shelf cam hydraulic roller the Lunati is the better design. But there's no doubt a for an idle to 5000 rpm profile a solid roller would do it better.
 
Murray said:
Sounds solid. In Cali. w/AC be sure to have plenty of radiator. 3:55s w/ 14" will give you about 3100rpm@ 65mph. You might want to adjust a little. Good luck.
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MrJLR said:
I'm running with 15" wheels now but might go taller to drop some RPMs.....

Jeff
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it dont mean a damn what size WHEELS are run to get you a given RPM.... but what size TIRES that are put on those wheels that do to give you your expected RPM at MPH.
 
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