opinions, commentss or suggestions

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rcottick

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looking for advice on winter changes or plans.

currently the car has a 340 bored .030 10.5-1 trw slugs. cam is a .509 lift solid mp grind. heads are stock, gasket matched 915 J's with 2.02 valves and intake is a edelbrock performer with a holley 750 vac secondary. Ignition is stock electronic distributor with MSD 6al. Exhaust is TTI headers thru 2 1/2" exhaust into flowmasters.

Trans is a lock up 904 with stock convertor

Rear is 8 3/4 with 2.73 open. springs relocated and mini tubbed.

subframe connectors already welded in and 6 point cage installed as well.

when i built the chassis I was planning to run 10's and would still love to but want to be able to at least take it to a cruise or 2 also.

ok now here is my plans: Goal is for car to hook great and run hard hope for low 11's

rear gets 4.30 gears and possibly cal-tracs just has new stock springs now.

rebuilt non lock up 904 with a 3500 stall convertor(not sure on stall or brand)

as for the motor, I am thinking the mopar M1 intake port matched and using an msd billet distributor with my box. I also want to put an adjustable nos plate system on it. I plan to sump my tank and run -8 lines to front regulator.

Any thoughts or ideas on this please. If all sounds good are my expectations possible or am I dreaming?

Ok, since ya now know what I'm starting with heres a few other things.

I picked up a new 489 with 4.10 and an auburn unit.
Tires are 325/50/15 mt drag radials.

I have a question about the roller rockers sold on e-bay, I believe they are procomp brand. Anyways should I stick with my stock iron adjustables or look at these aluminum rollers?

Also have a line on a m-1 intake for $150 or should I just go get a super victor at the $325?

putting a msd pro billet distributor in

getting a crt built 904 and 3500 - 4000 rpm stall convertor, not sure of brand yet.

now that the slow show and cruise season is over its time to go racing. Any thought on what this thing should run with the changes I start today?

Ron
 
WOW! Ron, whew...OK
(Big post, lol)

Do the heads have any porting work. To run the number, gasket matched is not going to cut it.

I'd look to Dynamic for a converter. Theres a few other companys worth noting as well. But quality pays. A cheap converter will work for many arenas, butI also understand the wallet.

Give all the info to the converter maker and let them know everything and the intended use. This will make for an excellent, well built converter.

The S/S springs can do the job. So can the stock distributor, M-1 single plane, even more so for the price. The Victor is a high RPM intake. Your cam is not. The purple cams are old school, but will perform well, just not as well as a newer grind.

I would seriously consider a larger cam with a split duration and as much lift as you can get.
Comp Cams HI-Lift series XE is a .904 lifter cam.
Lunati's Voo-Doo line
A Crane cam, race cam.
Huges engines cam

Theres a few others worth mentioning, the list can be long.

I'd also think about a roller to run 10's. Why, the broad torque curve, hi-rpm capablitys of a no brake in time required cam of crazy lift. It only sucks on price. Though a purpose built .904 spec solid will also kick A$$!.

I also like the idae of 4.30's over the 4.10's. Just a bit more release.
 
Rob, Thanks. I know it was a long post...sorry. Thanks for the thoughts. I agree on the intake side as the lower rpm band of the M1 I think matchs me better but alot of people are tryinh to tell me to go Victor. With that cam and heads right now it doesnt start pulling until 3500 or more but I think alot of that is because of the low rear gears. I wanted to go with a 4.30 setup but couldnt find the whole package together like I did the 4.10. I may update the ring gear now that I have the center section and auburn unit.

Ron

PA130004.jpg
 
Nice ride bro'. Seeing these nice Dusters are killing me. I can't wait to get mine done.
 
The 4.30's are a good upgrade i'm putting a set in the duster myself this offseason,i'd go with a Lunati voodoo cam the m.p. grinds are outdated,if you can afford it i'd go with a set of Edelbrock heads,and up grade the carb to a mechanical secondary one,an Air Gap intake will get the job done no need to use a single plane(i know it firsthand),you might want to run more stall then a 3500,i'd get in touch with Ulimate Converters,he's the best out there..And if you really want to see some power/torque stroke that 340,lastly leave the spray alone,if the motor is built right theres no need for it...
 
x3, yummmy looking ride.

LOL, don't be sorry about a long post. You'll never know if you never ask.

340'srule makes a good point. The RPM intake will provided a little more torque. Not much, but a little here and there helps. The high end HP will be there.
More torque the merry. 1st, not only off the line but to 100 mph wins the race. Torque gets that job done. High HP finishs the job.

Ethier way, I would not use the Victor at this stage of the game with the current set up you have and/or gunning for. The Victor can out horse power the M-1, but at the expense of torque. The Victor is a higher operating RPM intake. It is really a very very good intake. But I do seldom see a need for it with most combo's I read here.

(Excuse the term) A Bitchin converter pays for itself in E.T. and long reliable life of constant repeatable runs.

The carb upgrade would also be a good one. Tis is the type of arena where I would do a mech. secondary carb. I recomend a vacuum secondary carb often. But with the high gear ratio, converter stall and power band your looking to do, I myself would more likely double pump this engine.
If your on the street often, a vacuum secondary carb will work as well.

On heads, you mention allready that you have 10.5-1 slugs. These are positive/domed pistons? If so, Edelbrock heads are out.
For about the same price, you can fully port out the iron heads with excellent results. DO NOT get caught up in total or AKA, max cfm airflow from a head. While that is a nice thing to achieve, it's not the end all. Also, if your cam isn't lifting over .600, why port and flow the head to those numbers if your not useing it. That would be a waste of porting, time and money.
 
I liked your Duster so much I forgot to tell you I agree with 340srule (Dave) also. He has a very stout running smallblock stroker. I know he is tapping on the 10 second door and his Duster looks great also. But I see them smallblocks really scream when they are stroked to 408 and 416 cubes. I mean they are a very strong running combo with the 408 and 416 stroker combo's. Just look at how good 340srule car runs. Ron
 
man that's a really nice looking hotrod you have. how about buying the porting templates and doing the heads yourself. with the mods everyone is recommending the nos should get you in the the 10's.
 
It takes a very loose converter to get back the low end torque that you will loose with a single plane intake. Not good for your street cruises. Air gap will pull like crazy to 6500. 7000 with right set up. It will be much more streetable. Pocket porting and opening up the push rod pinch area will be a must if you use stock heads. I love using stock heads on my duster 408 and out running many many cars of all brands with aftermarket heads. Your car looks soooooo baaaad aaaaassss. Great job. The stroker does give soo much more torque. Speed is all about money and the right combos. Good luck, Ray
 
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