opinions on a 340 build

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71dartswingerdream

71dartswingerdream

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NJust purchased a 73 340 block a couple of wks ago. Need some advice as to which way to go with the build. I would like a reliable driven about four times a wk about 20 miles round trip I was thinking a 416 stroker but not sure how durable or how reliable its going to be. Have the block and 915 j heads to start with. The shop doing the machining is a very reputable shop and does some great work. So don't think the machining will be any down fall to the reliability. All opinions are greatly appreciated. Also have stock cast crk so if I decide to go with the stroker it will be available if anyone want to purchase it
 
80 miles a week isn't nothing. I'm not too hip on using a 4 inch stroke but its got that factory cast crank and only 80 miles a week, a stroker might be the way to go for you

I got 5,000 miles on m 340 in two seasons and using 3.91 gears, so I was more worried on the engine lasting a nice long time. I would have even more miles on the engine if gas was cheaper. I can't drive 55 either on the freeways, that little 340 screams on the E ways
 
While the piston speed will be higher and a little more rod angularity, as long as most of your 4 day a week driving is just normal commuting and not revving the wee out of it, i don't see much of a issue. Considering you need rods & pistons anyway, might as well just buy a nice cast crank 416 kit (Scat seems to be popular?) and enjoy the cubes. Afterall you wont have to gear the crap out of it to get it to run real strong.

http://www.rpmmachine.com/340-416-chrysler-stroker.shtml
 
OldmanRick said:
While the piston speed will be higher and a little more rod angularity, as long as most of your 4 day a week driving is just normal commuting and not revving the wee out of it, i don't see much of a issue. Considering you need rods & pistons anyway, might as well just buy a nice cast crank 416 kit (Scat seems to be popular?) and enjoy the cubes. Afterall you wont have to gear the crap out of it to get it to run real strong.

http://www.rpmmachine.com/340-416-chrysler-stroker.shtml
Click to expand...

X2

a 3.23 gear would make for a nice all around driver..with loads of top end speed..in fact too fast for most places
 
If money is not an issue I would make a stroker for sure.. Hard to beat all that torque and still run a 3.23 gear.. it would be a sweet ride for sure. A stroker is my dream build
 
Would he need to consider a better cooling system if he is driving a stroker that often? If I had the money I would go for the stoker personally, you may end up not driving it as much as you think though. Plus the stoker equals more power and the solution to the earths problems is more power.
 
i have often wondered how efficient the 408/416 combo can be?
something to consider.
 
I had 340 stroked to 424 with 3.23:1 it made over 500hp solid roller cam XR286R behind it was a 904 and I can tell you this... Good luck keeping your foot out of the throttle at 110mph it still pulls like a cummins! Go for it! you won't regret it, the stroker will chew up 3.23s like Watermelon flavored Huba-Buba!! (Sonic test the block!! cubic inches are free!!)
 
71dartswingerdream said:
Block is standard bore. Still sonic check?
Click to expand...

I just had a Stroker built out of a 72' 340 and my block was standard bore, they went .03 over and I don't think they did a sonic on it. I think as long as you aren't going .6 over you should be fine IMHO.

Cheers and good luck. I love strokers!
 
oops! I meant to add that I also had the engine Dyno'd and everything went well. It ended up at 410 ci and I'll add the printout FYI
 

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  • print out of dyno.jpg
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Nice power output. I see that the top of the page has all the importants. Cam, C-ratio, etc......

Any head work done?
What headers did you test with?
Are you running the same header in the car?
 
71dartswingerdream said:
NJust purchased a 73 340 block a couple of wks ago. Need some advice as to which way to go with the build. I would like a reliable driven about four times a wk about 20 miles round trip I was thinking a 416 stroker but not sure how durable or how reliable its going to be. Have the block and 915 j heads to start with. The shop doing the machining is a very reputable shop and does some great work. So don't think the machining will be any down fall to the reliability. All opinions are greatly appreciated. Also have stock cast crk so if I decide to go with the stroker it will be available if anyone want to purchase it
Click to expand...

20 miles round trip each of those 4 days. Like in commuting to and from work? If so, a mild cammed 416 would be even tempered and pack a lot of punch. You live in Pennsylvania. Do you plan on commuting during the winter months?

A 416 stroker with about 1 hp per cubic inch. Maybe less. Something like a XE268H to XE274H cam. Like 112 to 110 centerline, 236@50 max, .525" max lift. Dual plane intake, spreadbore carb.

The wear and durability thing is way overplayed. There are regular production engine that have those or close to those design specs. A non issue.

A 500 hp stroker small block does not fit in for a 20 mile round trip commuter vehicle.
 
Thanx you guys on here are great. I was thinking a solid roller cam any comments on that would be appreciated also. I have j heads with 2.02 and 1.60 valves. Want to get some mild porting done to boot.:newb:
 
I found the better the car drives, the MORE you wanna keep driving it.

Solid rollers have a durability problem for sure, the little pin on the lifters gets beaten up by the lash, I woulld go with a hyd roller if you must run a roller cam...for racing its a different story but those engines get torn down often
 
for "commuter" you need to think 3 things:
1. comp ratio.... between 9 and 10:1 not more not less. more will detonate on street gas less will get poor mileage. 500c.i vs 416 dont matter. it's the ratio that determines how efficiently the gas/air mixture is burned. SUPER gas from an exxon not from a convenience store. if you want to run bad gas 8:1 comp ratio.

2. manual shift. 904/727 auto trans with converters are very poor you lose about 30% wasted on the non-lockup converter. i had a 340 dart with a 4 speed manual trans i got 19mpg

3. weight. less weight = better mileage. aluminum heads & intake are better than iron. lighter wheels and rubber save gas. dont get 19" wheels and mudbog size tires and expect to improve your mileage or braking. big huge rubber absorbs a lot more torque to get it spinning (more braking to slow it down). spinning weight is even worse than extra non moving weight in ruining your mileage.

as far as stroker kits please please read this article before you buy one. ... you have to be very careful as some of them come from the factory improperly machined, and many people have had bad luck just putting them in their engine right out of the box...

http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/muscle-mike-blog/122-stroker-kits-101.html
 
So what is everyones opinions on still using the stock 7 1/4 rear. Was told its not gonna handle a stroker setup. But not planning on beating the balls off of it. It will be run through a 727 tci auto trans
 
Trust me,find a 8 3/4 's rear end.Way worth the peace of mind. Use 3.55's ,a 2200-2400 stall converter .Keep the cam mild,hydraulic roller gets you out of the cam going flat. Your heads will work really well,with some porting.If they are worn,might check into Eddys,RHS, EQ heads.
 
Abodybomber said:
Trust me,find a 8 3/4 's rear end.Way worth the peace of mind. Use 3.55's ,a 2200-2400 stall converter .Keep the cam mild,hydraulic roller gets you out of the cam going flat. Your heads will work really well,with some porting.If they are worn,might check into Eddys,RHS, EQ heads.
Click to expand...
i don't know the 8.8 ford is looking better all the time....
 
Done it ,on the 5.0's .Essentially a Chev 12 bolt,in hiding.Don't know if OP has welding ability.Cheap as help,and reliable,hell yes.
 
If you cant afford a mew rear end then stay away from wide tires or slicks. It should be ok as long as the wheels are spinning but if it hooks your doomed.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Nice power output. I see that the top of the page has all the importants. Cam, C-ratio, etc......

Any head work done?
What headers did you test with?
Are you running the same header in the car?
Click to expand...

Thx Rob,

No head work done just pushrod clearance for the 1.6 rockers. The headers belonged to the shop, 1-3/4headers into a 3-1/2 collector.

Joe
 
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