Opinions on Duster Front Clip/Frame R&R

[Idaho]

This is a take off from my thread "Demon Clone Project". I'm placing it here because it's not part of the Demon build.

I have two '73 Dusters, a '74 Dart Sport and a complete '73 Duster front clip, with the frame cut just ahead of the firewall.

I've decided to make the Dart a Demon and have the front clip parts for that as well. Rather than trash the 73 that's an original 340 4 spd car for parts I plan to replace its front frame damage (both rails bent) with a front clip and frame rails and sell it as a roller to help fund the Demon.

Of course everything will be well documented. All critical welds will be done by a professional certified welder.

Here's the initial plan. Use the spare front clip with a frame splice just ahead of the firewall. I've researched unibody frame splicing and the method would be to make a U shaped sleeve to fit inside the frame about 12" long, make the cuts a 45, tig weld at the 45, and plug weld the sleeve, staying clear of the lower portion of the frame rail (high stress area). Fish plates on the outside would be an option. A jig attached to the frame rails rear of the firewall would line things up. Diagonal measurements as a backup. Front bumper support on clip and K member keep the clip square.

Here's the alternate plan. To avoid a frame splice in the high stress area ahead of the firewall I could use full length front frame members and front clip cut out of the other blue 73 /6. I'd need to make a longer jig attached to the rear and front transverse frame members. It would be a lot more work.

I feel the orignial plan would provide a solid result but... I think a buyer might be more secure about a full length frame member. Unless I get a lot of feedback otherwise that's the direction I'm headed.

Tell me what you think as a potential buyer.

Pics: brown 74 Dart
yellow 73 340 4 spd Duster (bent frame rails not shown)
blue 73 /6 (major side impact, good front end)
splice location for original plan (undercoat makes 45 there by chance)

 

[dusterbd13]

if it were me, and i was doing this with a couple of complete cars at my disposal, what i would do is drill out all the spoit welds fro the front inner fenders, frame rails, and t-bar corssmember.
measure about 4,963 times before removing the front clip from the wrecked car (340 car). transfer marks to garage floor for reference points, make reference marks on the car.
drill out the spots on the donor in the same way. line up to the reference marks on the 340 car, weld. prime. sell.

 

[MOBodyman]

if it were me, and i was doing this with a couple of complete cars at my disposal, what i would do is drill out all the spoit welds fro the front inner fenders, frame rails, and t-bar corssmember.
measure about 4,963 times before removing the front clip from the wrecked car (340 car). transfer marks to garage floor for reference points, make reference marks on the car.
drill out the spots on the donor in the same way. line up to the reference marks on the 340 car, weld. prime. sell.

I agree 100%. After you strip out the blue car measure everything to get your reference points, then drill the spot wells out and remove the entire front clip in one piece. This makes it very easy to put in the other car correctly. You just have to make sure it is square and 'level' (nose not too high or low) and start welding. If your 340 car doesn't have the firewall or floor tweeked I'll bet the new clip will go back almost exactly where the original one was located.
I did a late model vehicle this way not long ago and everything went back together perfectly. I reused the original suspension and the alignment tech said the alignment was barely off.
A pro welder will probably do a better job than the factory and you will be able to sell the car to anyone and have a clear consience.
Dallas

 

[Idaho]

That approach does make sense. More pearls from FABO. Thanks a bunch.

The only hesitation I have is value/ability to sell the roller. Looking around here I don't see them going for much and it's a lot of work. I'm wondering if I'd do better parting them with less work. Kind of a shame to let that 340 4 spd with folding seat go to waste though.

Here's what I did with the blue car last evening. It was kinda slow getting through the layers, especially as I wanted to salvage the interior. I think someone will make use of the seats and panels.

(pics in the next post)

 

[Idaho]

Chop and cut mode!

 

[MOBodyman]

That approach does make sense. More pearls from FABO. Thanks a bunch.

The only hesitation I have is value/ability to sell the roller. Looking around here I don't see them going for much and it's a lot of work. I'm wondering if I'd do better parting them with less work. Kind of a shame to let that 340 4 spd with folding seat go to waste though.

The worst part of the job is getting the spot welds drilled out. That takes quite awhile. Welding it all back together can be accomplished in an evening.

I'm of the same opinion as you on saving the car. I really hate to see a fairly rare savable car parted and destroyed.

Maybe you can do it as a part time project if you have the storage space to leave it torn down for awhile.

Good luck,
Dallas