Opinions on Leaf Springs and Torsion Bars?

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Hyper72Valiant

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As I am planning on putting in the 8 3/4 rear on the '72 Valiant, I was thinking of putting in new leafs, offset shackles and offset hangers. I was curious on your opinions of just stock leaf springs vs. HD ones? I like the stance it has now (pics on my link below). I also would like to know your opinions on torsion bar sizes for handling. I just want it to handle good on the road first.
This is my DD right now and has been since high school, i'm only 21 and love old cars! I would like to however get another car so that I don't have to drive the Valiant in harsh weather...winter isn't that nice here + salt! So, I think I will get a front swaybar, 6 leaf stock height springs (IDK if I would like 2" higher, I need photoshop...and I don't want it 2" lower), and some good shock absorbers (seems like Edelbrocks or QA-1 Adjustable shocks?). What do you guys think?
 
I am running the ESPO +1 6 leaf spring and I think the .890 torsion bars. I run Monroe radial matic gas shocks. No sway bars. Sub frame connectors welded in.

Car drives real nice, no dipping and bouncing around on the highway like it did with worn out leafs and /6 bars. Springs are not harsh, but probably not what you would want for any extreme driving.
 
I think I am going to go with .870- .890 Torsion Bars, Edlebrock IAS's all around, front sway bar...I want my car to sit where it's at or maybe just a little higher, will new 6 leaf 1-2" higher or new stock leaf springs do the trick? Does that sound like a good plan? Haha, my car does tend to dip and bounce, not way bad, but, I notice.:sign10: - sorry, saw it in the "smileys" and couldn't resist...

Here is a few pics of my car: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2204703
 
Before you do T bars, just see how it rides. Remember, T bars are for up and down motion, not so much side to side or leaning in the corners. That would be the sway bars job.

I upgraded a little bit to KYB gas adjust shocks. Good everyday driver quality shocks a bit stiffer than stock. I have no sway bars ethier and it isn't to bad in the turns. To a point of course.

I did espo.com springs like above w/a 1inch over bend. Sad to say I'll be sending one back for a rebend. Drivers side sits nearly 2-1/4 inchs lower than passenger side. I have used them before without problems and would use them again just so you know.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Sad to say I'll be sending one back for a rebend. Drivers side sits nearly 2-1/4 inchs lower than passenger side.
Click to expand...
Have you tried adjusting the torsion bars? The front and back are connected, and if you raise the front left, the rear right will go down. You could also lower the front right if you want the front lower.
 
i usd the espo 6 leaf +1" on jamies car and if i did it again i would probably go with the stock height instead on 1" over. i like it sitting lower.

i also put 440 bars up front on her car. the car is a small block car and the 440 bars have a real nice ride and the car doesn't lean going into corners. i still have to put some real tires on it though. you can out drive the 14" tires way too easy.

basically what i'm saying is i would go with 440 bars and stock height 6 leaf HD espo springs.
 
The offset springs and shackles for the rear suggest to me that you're contemplating much larger tires for the rear than for the front. Doing so will increase understeer. Adding a front sway-bar also increases understeer, but will also combat body roll on the suspension.

Adding a good rear bar and front bar will produce a more neutral handling car. A rear bar hung from the rear axle increases unsprung weight, making the car ride a bit more harshly.

The A-39 A-body cop car had a rear bar hung from the body. It's not difficult to fabricate your own mounts and do the same.

Like BrianT, I use the Monroe gasmatics on the Demon and am pleased with them. My strategy was to go with soft springs, and stiff damping for a road car. If I were to race it, I'd change things considerably.
 
I was going to get new shackles and hangers, so, I figured why not go offset. I don't want any tire or rim clearance problems when I get em'. I don't have much fabrication skills, but, if I really needed to make something I have some buddies that might be able to help me.
My car will most likely just tear up the streets, so, a good strategy would be to get "soft" rear springs and good absorbers? I think I will get a front sway bar, Edelbrock IAS's all around, .890 torsion bars, and stock height leaf springs, 6 leaf I think I want or is that too stiff? HD 6 leaf maybe? 6 leafs will be stiffer, so, stock height leafs could actually make my rear raise a bit eh? thanks for all your input guys
 
I got espo leafs on mine also, cant remember if i got 5 or 6. 2 inch lift. That helped to stiffen up the rear quite a bit. i did just also add V8 torsion bars, power disc brakes and a front sway bar, i have yet to get it on the road though so can't tell you how it handles.

Replacing your old springs will give it quite a bit more lift. Although i got the 2 inch lift on mine, the actual difference was about 6 inches from where it sat because the old springs were so worn out. They are softening up a little bit after a year but still work great.
 
I have 15 year old ESPO 6 leafs with a 1/2" lowering block. I run 1.04 T bars and bilstein shocks. I would double check the eddy shocks for proper height. I bet the fronts are too long for the A body, even though they are listed as a one size fits all piece.
 
Ok, will check on those Eddy Shocks to make sure that when I buy them that they are the correct height for the front. I think I will go for 0" lift - 1" lift ESPO 6 Leafs.
 
I just ran the California Melee in my Barracuda (800+ miles on back roads, including gravel and worse-than-gravel). I have new .890 t-bars and fairly old replacement "Formula S" rear springs (factory HD for SB), with front and rear Addco bars (front with custom fabricated brackets, poly bushings, and "no bushing" heim-joint end links). This made for a good combination of compliance (on rough roads) and roll control. Stock height in rear, a hair lower in front. No problem keeping up with most of the sports cars, except in the really tight hairpins (26:1 manual box couldn't spin fast enough), and on downhills (some were 10% grades) where the slushbox would let it run away, and then it would push through turns because you couldn't get on the power hard enough (since you were running out of road).

Other equipment: factory K-H calipers, slotted cross-drilled rotors with ceramic pads (Summit Racing), new 215/70-14 Firehawk Indy 500s on 14 x 5.5 rallies, 3.23 SureGrip, KYBs, new Moog offset UCA bushings, improved Moog strut bushings.

I was very pleased with this combo, other than the steering ratio. And a 4-speed would be nice in this event.

==========================
Max
1967 Fastback
Johnny Lightning Muscle Cars USA #14
273 Commando
Mountain View, CA
 
Hyper72Valiant said:
I was going to get new shackles and hangers, so, I figured why not go offset. I don't want any tire or rim clearance problems when I get em'. I don't have much fabrication skills, but, if I really needed to make something I have some buddies that might be able to help me.
Click to expand...

If you go with the off set shackles and hangers plan on moving your spring perch on your axle housing.
 
Yep, still contemplating the offset stuff, hmmmmm, I think I might be able to fit 225-60-15 in the back and 205-60-15 in the front without using that offset stuff, what do you guys think?
 
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