opinions on stroker kit?

Which stroker kit?

  • 416 Cast crank

    Votes: 49 57.0%

  • 372 Forged crank

    Votes: 37 43.0%
  • Total voters
    86
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7

71swing

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Location
Omaha, Nebraska
I got word back from my machine shop that my 340 was seized up from a spun rod bearing and bent rod on cylinder 5. I will be talking it over with them Monday. But Im now shopping for a stroker kit.

The best pricing I have found is from RPM Machine http://www.rpmmachine.com/chrysler-stroker-menu.shtml
Im intrested in the 416 cast crank for the price ( comes with KB hyper dished pistons) but I believe I can maybe get it with forged ones. Or should I step down to the 372 and get forged crack for a little more money?

cast crank more cubes or forged crank less cubes all for close the same money?
 
416 good for 500hp and the 372 good for 750hp, so if it a N/A 500hp or less and want to run reasonable rear gears I'd go with 416 kit.
 
Unless you're building a "ground pounder," the 416 cast crank is the way to go. Good for 500 hp all day long.
 
I looked at RPM Machine as well as others, when i was pricing a stroker. had a few e-mails with them as well.

Talk to your Machine Shop! they can get you as good, or better "Q" for less. at least my guy did. :-k

Sooo what are you going to do with this eng Mild, wild or CrAzY!!! :D

And No my eng is not together yet.........But the block is painted :cheers:
 
I do have a Zex kit on the car with the old 340. Used it only at the track a few time. Never even finished the first bottle. If I could get high 400's on just the stroker I would sell off the nitrous. I'm just looking for a respectable car for the street. Car already looks good just need to make sure I don't have any problems with any teenagers in their retarded rice burners.

Car has a 727 with a CTR reverse valve body, dynamic 3200 stall converter and 8-3/4 rear with 4:30 gears which I may raise slightly to better highway speed.
 
Cast crank stroker is plenty enough to get you in trouble on the street....450hp/450tq is good:D.
 
3200stall..hmmm

What rpm are you wanting to turn this new motor?
 
I don't know if true but I've read by time you balance a cast crank with mallory metal it puts you close to forged crank cost.
 
Cudafever said:
3200stall..hmmm

What rpm are you wanting to turn this new motor?
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Whatever it needs. Current cam is a mopar purple which I don't think they sell anymore P5007695. 241/241@ .50. .484lift 114* 2600 to 6000rpm range.

If I need to change the cam or converter than I will maybe next spring.
 
273 said:
I don't know if true but I've read by time you balance a cast crank with mallory metal it puts you close to forged crank cost.
Click to expand...

My Forged crank needed balanced with mallory. I think it was around $200 for the balancing.

I would go with the forged 372. That way you have it in case you ever decide to start putting more power to it. The shorter stroke will rev faster, too (not that a 416 would be "slow" revving).
 
I'd go with the extra cubes and most importantly, torque of the 416. Overall I think it's a better street combo. Lower gears, lower stall if automatic, less rpm and engine wear on the highway and the strip!
 
Build the bigger inch engine. Won't have to turn it more than about 5500 to run in the high tens at 3000-3200# in a good working chassis.

450+ hp is pretty easy to get. Heads make a big difference in how much power gets produced.
 
273 said:
I don't know if true but I've read by time you balance a cast crank with mallory metal it puts you close to forged crank cost.
Click to expand...
Dont know where you read that but my cast 4" stroker crank required NO mallory in fact they had to take some weight off.
 
it all depends on the weights of the rest of the rotating assembly.

Price is not always the best bet for parts - in general -

I spent a little more for rods, bu they didnt need any work at the shop - same with the crank - sometimes if you cheap out and the rods or crank need to be worked on at the shop it cancels out your cost savings.
 
oldkimmer said:
............I think Mike over at MRL..........has a stroker 4 sale.............kim........
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kim is right on mike has one killer sb for sale carb to pan dyno tuned for less than you could do it yourself and its a professional built engine.
 
I when with the forged 4.00" stroker because i can make the same power as a shorter stroked eng at a lower rpm. aka a more streetable combo.(better gearing less stall exc.)

And it didn't have to have Mallory metal added. My machinist said it was a Farly light assembly

If you live close to MRL, that might be a good deal!!!!
 
71swing said:
I do have a Zex kit on the car with the old 340. Used it only at the track a few time. Never even finished the first bottle. If I could get high 400's on just the stroker I would sell off the nitrous. I'm just looking for a respectable car for the street. Car already looks good just need to make sure I don't have any problems with any teenagers in their retarded rice burners.

Car has a 727 with a CTR reverse valve body, dynamic 3200 stall converter and 8-3/4 rear with 4:30 gears which I may raise slightly to better highway speed.
Click to expand...

Some of those retarded rice burners are damn fast , nissan gtr from the factory for example .
With 4:30 gears and 3200 stall I'd go for the 372 , but I like doing things the hard way , like building a second 340 as a beater engine instead of going for a 360 . I also like using a forged crank and pistons , but the crowd here seems to think cast crank and pistons are good enough , maybe these days they are .
Good luck with whatever you choose , hope you beat those retarded rice burners !
 
jerry6 said:
Some of those retarded rice burners are damn fast , nissan gtr from the factory for example .
With 4:30 gears and 3200 stall I'd go for the 372 , but I like doing things the hard way , like building a second 340 as a beater engine instead of going for a 360 . I also like using a forged crank and pistons , but the crowd here seems to think cast crank and pistons are good enough , maybe these days they are .
Good luck with whatever you choose , hope you beat those retarded rice burners !
Click to expand...

How many tweeners' are going to be driving a $96k+ import?If they are, Iam willing to bet the local law enforcement would like to search their person and vehicle.Hondas,Subarus,Supras,Fairlady/350 and the like Iam sure is what was ment by the OP.
 
DJVCUDA said:
it all depends on the weights of the rest of the rotating assembly.

Price is not always the best bet for parts - in general -

I spent a little more for rods, bu they didnt need any work at the shop - same with the crank - sometimes if you cheap out and the rods or crank need to be worked on at the shop it cancels out your cost savings.
Click to expand...

Thats knowledge and experience right there. I learned my lesson once, tried to save $90 or so on a set of pistons. Then to get compression ended up cutting block, heads, which meant intake milled and custom pushrods. I think saving $90 on pistons cost me $380 or so.
 
71swing said:
http://www.mrlperformance.com/

My build better not even be a 4th of the cost of his motor. At least it better not be.
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I don't think you're going to build a stroker motor for 1700.00 bucks, ain't gonna happen.

I've been looking at parts for my 360/408 build and so far I'm coming in at 65 hundred or so, and still don't have everything figured in.
 
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