Opinions Wanted - What clutch parts to buy and can I do it?

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timbolia

timbolia

65Wagon
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Hi All,

So my brother is coming down from San Francisco next weekend, the 11th. He asked if I wanted to do the clutch while he was here. It sounds like I should take him up on it, but I have none of the parts yet. What should I get? and does this sound like something we could do in the 2 days he is here? He has replaced clutches on his 65 Mustang before so he has some idea of what he is doing, I am learning everything as I go.

For those of you who don't know my car, it is a 65 Dart wagon with a slant six and a hurst 4 speed, the PO thought it was from a 68 or 69 Dart. Also money is always an issue, so best value is needed. The car is my daily driver, I do not need to race it or anything, I drive 6 miles each way to work and that is about it.

Also should I do the U-joints at the same time? I have very few tools and just a scissors jack for changing tires.

Opinions welcome

Tim
 
I would start with 4 jack stands, you can get by with 2 but it makes it easier if you raise the whole car. You'll need a clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. You should resurface the flywheel also, you may be able to take it and have it done while you wait. You may need some 90 weight for the trans, typically it runs out when you pull the driveshaft. It woud be nice to do the u-joints while the shaft is out.
I don't see why you couldn't do it in a day. Good Luck!
 
actually, It took about four hours and ten beers to switch from automatic to four speed in my waggin and I'm not real sure on the beer count,interuptive phone calls or cute chicks that showed up to help while i was doing the project......:cheers:
 
GTGrinly said:
I would start with 4 jack stands, you can get by with 2 but it makes it easier if you raise the whole car. You'll need a clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. You should resurface the flywheel also, you may be able to take it and have it done while you wait. You may need some 90 weight for the trans, typically it runs out when you pull the driveshaft. It woud be nice to do the u-joints while the shaft is out.
I don't see why you couldn't do it in a day. Good Luck!
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Or some good ramps. Don't forget a new pilot bushing. If you have a good local clutch builder, I'd go that route but you might also check with NAPA. I've gotten some good deals with them lately on other clutches. Came as a set with everything you need. It even had an alignment shaft! You'll need some basic hand tools.....wrenches, sockets, extensions, pry bar, etc. You'll need a pilot bushing puller or carefully use a small sharp chisle to remove the bushing. You can reinstall the bushing with a hammer and socket about the same size. A tranny jack helps but the two of you can manhandle it if you're carefull. If the trans is original, you won't need to worry about 90wt leaking ouf of the tail shaft, your year still has the bolt-on flange. You will want to get a plug for the speedo cable hole though. If it's a later slip yoke type, and you're planing on new u-joints, take the yoke off the driveshaft first and slide it back in place while you wrestle with the tranny. If you stick it in gear when you reinstall the trans, it will help having the yoke in place to get the input shaft splines to engage the clutch disc splines. Just rock the yoke while you wiggle the trans up to the bell housing. Check your clutch linkage, boot, and fork condition too.
 
Do I want the 9 1/4 clutch? Also the auto zone guy asked if I needed the lever type or the diaphram type? Any info? What should I order?
 
When you get your throw out bearing you'll need one with the collar on it or you'll need a press to re-use your old collar. They're available either way. Easiest way would be to just buy it with the collar already on it.
I don't remember for sure what size the clutch is on a slant but 9 1/4" sounds about right. If you're just putting in a standard type replacement clutch you should probably get the lever (probably either a Borg & Beck or a Long) type. A diaphragm clutch might require you to remove your over-center spring & that would just be more work.
 
Thanks for the info, I am not sure I will be able to get it in time, but we will see. Any suggestions on the best place to get one quick in LA?
 
timbolia said:
Thanks for the info, I am not sure I will be able to get it in time, but we will see. Any suggestions on the best place to get one quick in LA?
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Hello,

I am in the Valley............

We all use "Valley Friction".... 818-765-5174


Valley Friction Materials in North Hollywood, CA is a private company categorized under Automotive Brakes. Our records show it was established in 1957 and incorporated in California.


Call them and you may be able to drop off your stuff and go get breakfast, do a couple of things, and come back and pick up your finished stuff.


You should consider having the pressure and flywheel Balanced as an assembly at the end.

They will do it there and mark it so you can mount the assembly same as they balanced it.

You will need a pilot guide, or an old input shaft to keep things lined up while you do the install.

Be Careful on the torque you apply to the pressure plate bolts, they are small and if you push things the fastener may fail.

This is the time to inspect the back side of the flywheel for traces of a rear main seal that has seen better days.

Don't let a failing rear main seal spoil your new disk.

On the pilot bearing,.... use a bearing, not a bushing.

Check your ring gear, if you need a new one ask Valley to put a new one on.

If yours needs touch up, now is the time to do it.


There may be a place like Valley Friction near you........

All I can say is that they have always come through for me in the past and have always done very nice work.

Best of luck, if I was closer I would offer to come by and lend a hand.
.
 
Do they make a pilot bearing for that application?? I've only seen bushings. What's the bearing number?
 
cudamark said:
Do they make a pilot bearing for that application?? I've only seen bushings. What's the bearing number?
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I am not certain.

I learned this lesson on my 57', those "oil-lite" bushings are worthless.

When I mentioned that fact at the parts counter the guy asked,
"want a bearing instead?"

I answered "Hell Yes"

If someone can give me the sizes,(O.D. / I.D. / Width), I can check it out.

Likely one of the guys here know what to ask for.

All I do when I am buying the parts I need is say, "Not the bushing, I need the bearing",... and they hand me one.
******************************************************************

I called the place where I get a lot the parts for my old trucks.

They said you only have the choice of a bushing.

I.D. is .753 / O.D. is .940, that bushing is so thin there is no room without doing some machining.

On the six cylinder in my truck the O.D. of the bushing is "much" bigger, so going to a bearing is possible.

I had one flywheel that had a spacer ring in the pilot diameter, only after pulling the ring out was there room for a bearing.

The parts place I called said the bushing for your application should be fine and last for years.

A little dab of Lubri-plate and you're off to the races.
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I called one of the bearing places I deal with because it crossed my mind that a bearing using rollers may just make those sizes.

The closest one............

The I.D. .750, O.D. 1"

To make use of this bearing the .940 bore would have to be moved up to jive with the 1" O.D. of the bearing.

About .060 needs to come out.

I am sure that bore can stand being opened up .030 per side, but as it stands there is no "off the shelf" bearing that will do it.

 
I am sure with a stock slant and my 6 mile commute, it will be fine. It is not like I am taking the wagon to the strip. I just want a reliable cool family car.
 
MachineMan said:
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I called one of the bearing places I deal with because it crossed my mind that a bearing using rollers may just make those sizes.

The closest one............

The I.D. .750, O.D. 1"

To make use of this bearing the .940 bore would have to be moved up to jive with the 1" O.D. of the bearing.

About .060 needs to come out.

I am sure that bore can stand being opened up .030 per side, but as it stands there is no "off the shelf" bearing that will do it.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I tried to find one in the past and came up dry also. I was hoping someone was making one that fit right in. If I was to machine the crank, I'd make the convertor snout hole bigger and use the factory Magnum pilot bearing. That way I will also have the option of using a later automatic behind the same engine.
 
cudamark said:
Thanks, I tried to find one in the past and came up dry also. I was hoping someone was making one that fit right in. If I was to machine the crank, I'd make the convertor snout hole bigger and use the factory Magnum pilot bearing. That way I will also have the option of using a later automatic behind the same engine.
Click to expand...

That is the smart way to go, and explains something................

I'll bet the one in my old 223 six is made so there was a similar choice.

The oil-light bushing for my six is big, like, (just throwing numbers out there)............

Like .700 I.D. and 1.875 O.D.

And there were cast iron automatics available for those year sixes.
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